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Old 10-21-2002, 12:08 PM   #1
Custom 68
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harmonic balancers?

I am rebuilding my 327 putting TPI on so it wont be a real high RPM screamer. I have the original Balancer on it now should it be replaced or how do you tell. What would you recommend? I will be taking the engine and parts to the shop soon to have it all checked and balanced and such. The guys there will probably be able to tell me more just wanted your thoughts.
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Old 10-21-2002, 12:13 PM   #2
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Your stock balancer should be fine. I believe it's good for 8,000 plus rpm's. Tpi motor's don't turn any where near that.
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Old 10-21-2002, 12:13 PM   #3
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If its 30+ years old replace it. Rubber doesnt last forever and even if you cant see damage it will fail at some point no matter what it looks like so perform a little proactive maintenance and change it. You can get a new 8 inch elastomeric balancer for $70 that will do a better job of soaking up torsional vibes . Its cheap insurance.
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Old 10-21-2002, 12:49 PM   #4
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If you don't mind me butting into you post custom 68, How does a harmonic balancer work? What's inside that thing?

I've always wondered.
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Old 10-21-2002, 02:59 PM   #5
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there is a hub then a layer of rubber then a ring....when the motor is turning the outer ring , do to centrifical force, is lightend...Oh hell I dont know how it works....lol
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Old 10-21-2002, 04:45 PM   #6
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On a working crankshaft, most of the motion (of course) is rotation about the centerline. But what else is going on? When engineering a moving or load-bearing part, you have to consider how the steel behaves under stress.

There are several obvious vibrational modes that get superimposed with rotation, on a heavy rotating shaft. One is "flexure," where a slightly unbalanced crankshaft will wobble about its centerline. What you do about that is make several main bearings, rather than just two. And balance the crankshaft by drilling holes in the counterweights.

The next is the "torsional" mode, where the front and back ends twist in opposite directions. There is a characteristic frequency for this that depends on the length of the crankshaft and its stiffness. The harmonic balancer is designed to have just the right properties so it matches this frequency and twists in the opposite direction as the front of the crankshaft. Thus, it cancels out the motion.

The frequency matching means you can't interchange harmonic balancers without also interchanging the crankshaft, unless the two crankshafts are identical.
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Old 10-23-2002, 10:45 AM   #7
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What do I need to replace it with

MikeP suggested an 8 inch one. I measured mine and it is 6.25 inches across. again this is a 327 forged crank. I forget the year but it is the pre 68 with the small journal.
After I looked at it i agree with the replacement the rubber looks pretty bad.
Thanks
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1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap
1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?)
"A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome".
"If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"
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Old 10-23-2002, 11:05 AM   #8
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The 8 inch damper will do a much better job of dampening at higher RPM's even on a 327. The 8 inch chevy balancer as found in later model heavy duty 350's will work fine on a 327 as it is neutral balanced . Make sure to have the entire assy balanced before assy though. The nice thing about modern balancing is that everything gets its own dynamic balancing job on neutral balance engines. That means the crank gets done by itself as do the balancer and flywheel so if you ever need to change them your balance will remain even as long as the part changed is correctly balanced . Even rods and pistons can be changed as long as the weight remains the same as the part that is being rplaced.
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Old 10-23-2002, 11:15 AM   #9
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do the 327 balancers have bolts that go into the crank? In my service book it doesn't list a torque specification and there isn't a bolt in mine; is there supposed to be, or is it just a press fit?
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Old 10-23-2002, 11:18 AM   #10
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Thanks Mike so basically if it will fit I can run it? and yes Ackattack mine does have a bolt in the front of the balancer. it is a press fit that may be the way they are supposed to be but I did bolt mine. Seemed safer
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1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap
1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?)
"A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome".
"If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"
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Old 10-23-2002, 11:22 AM   #11
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some of the sj engines didnt have the bolt,or the threaded hole in the in the crank. i ran into this on a 283, that I had drilled & tapped at the time of overhaul. This engine didnt have a damper, just a steel hub that was press fit......crazy AL
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Old 10-23-2002, 12:01 PM   #12
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So if you get your engine balanced, should you have the balancer also checked? what about aftermarket balancers, should they be checked as well?
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Old 10-23-2002, 12:24 PM   #13
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Theory is that you should be able to swap balancers on the sb.....except the 400 sb, as they are nuetral balance(400 is external balance,& has to be on the crank to balance,as does the flexplate). Practice doesnt always follow theory , due to manufacturing tolerances! I have seen many 350 street eng's balanced without doing the balancer & flex plate, & no problems. Both of these pcs can be balanced off the crank, so swapping doesnt cause a problem(265-350ci). crazy AL
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