06 Seirra frame swap

[drjeffdc]

Well Here goes again. I have got to get a shop to work in. bought this one out of the bone yard. frame is bent pretty bad. Couple frame shops told me it would be better to replace the frame, didn't really count on this much work, but in the end it will be a better truck.

[drjeffdc]

Frame was bent with a bad kink. a arms pulled it into an S shape.

[drjeffdc]

After much research about removing the cab, I decided to try this route. I was afraid to try and lift the cab off. figured it would be best to lower the frame out from under the cab.

[drjeffdc]

Free at last! Free at last! Thank God almighty, the cabs Free at last!

[collisioncenter]

Looks like your making good progress. I can tell you a frame swap on these 99-07 chevy and gmc pickups is really easy. I did 2 88-98's when I was fresh out of school, over 15 years ago. I've done 4 of these 99-07 chevy and gmc's in the past year. I can tell you from experience that I would take a 99-07 long before a 88-98. I've done 2 07-13's. There not as easy as the 99-07's but much easier then the 88-98. I suppose the 88-98 was maybe a lack of experience when I did them. Now everyone thinks I'm crazy but I would rather swap a frame then straighten it. I think you just have a better finished product. Keep posting and keep working your making great progress!

[drjeffdc]

Thanks for the encouragement! I'll feel better when its back together and running.

[TexasSteve]

I'm interested in this because I want to do a cab/frame swap too but questions about yours.....

How did you get from this point:

to this point:
?

Obviously the cab isn't high enough for the frame to be rolled backwards for the engine to clear under the cab.
And the rear cab mounts, seen in the pic, are too tall (cab not high enough) for the frame to be rolled forward under the cab.
And the wheel track is too wide for the wheels (bare rear end or the bare front hubs) to fit between the wooden supports you built for the cab even if the cab was high enough to clear the cab mounts or engine.

Did you end up having to remove the rear end from the frame & then roll the frame forward on the front tires & a floor jack under the rear of the frame?

[drjeffdc]

I took the rear tires off. and rolled it out. Well drug it out. If I wer gonna do it again Think I would build my platforms alittle higher. also remove shocks and tortion bars

[drjeffdc]

If you will notice in the second pic I had to raise the platforms alittle. just jacked them up and shimmmed. think 4x4s would be better to support the cab. AS I pulled out the frame I added a 12' 2x4 at the front under cab where i couldn't get one before because of the tranny.. Makes ya kinda nervous. especially when it all wobbles . used screws and cross supports. Like I say, not sure this is the best way, but it is a way to do it without a lift.

[collisioncenter]

I have a great way of lifting the cabs, in fact so great that I should probably patent it. I don't like to use a hoist for lifting cabs because it never fails that as soon as you get a cab on one you need the hoist, or the pickup is always in the way. So I figured out what to do for any DIY'er. If you have a source for compressed air and you can borrow or even buy 2 air powered bumper jacks (They were real popular in the 60s and 70s) you then simply place one under the pinch weld on the passengers side and one under the pinch weld of the drivers side and begin lifting. Make sure there centered on the cab as far as weight distribution. Once the cab is up it can rest on them for as long as you need it to, and its fairly stable. Once you've settled the cab back on the frame properly you can wheel the jacks out of the way or return them. Your lift can be anywhere you put them. It works amazing. And quite honestly these bumper jacks are getting so reasonable you can just about buy them and have them sitting around for the next project....I should've never spilled the beans on this, I could probably be a millionare...Oh well good luck with it.

[drjeffdc]

how do you deal with cab mount bolts that the nut on the cab end comes loose. I had to cut a cab mount bolt off. thinking I'll have to cut an access hole and weld the nut back on.

[collisioncenter]

I can honestly say to this point I have never had any trouble with the cab mount bolts. However the box bolts are a different story. I know that the cab bolts are a locking style bolt that GM also puts loctite on. You say you cut it off, I would say you should be able to weld the mount to the nut from the bottom side, then take and warm the bolt up a bit, clamp on it with a vise grip and you should be able to turn the bolt out. Thats how I've taken the stubborn box bolts out that have done the same thing. When you warm the bolt up that allows the loctite to free itself. Usually does the trick.

[Chevy-Art]

Looking good so far. What would you change, and why would you not do it this way again?

Originally Posted by collisioncenter

If you have a source for compressed air and you can borrow or even buy 2 air powered bumper jacks (They were real popular in the 60s and 70s) you then simply place one under the pinch weld on the passengers side and one under the pinch weld of the drivers side and begin lifting. Make sure there centered on the cab as far as weight distribution. Once the cab is up it can rest on them for as long as you need it to, and its fairly stable. Once you've settled the cab back on the frame properly you can wheel the jacks out of the way or return them. Your lift can be anywhere you put them. It works amazing. And quite honestly these bumper jacks are getting so reasonable you can just about buy them and have them sitting around for the next project....I should've never spilled the beans on this, I could probably be a millionare...Oh well good luck with it.

Great idea.

[drjeffdc]

Sounds like a good trick but, ...... the nut broke loose from the other end where I can't get to it.

[collisioncenter]

I'm not exactly sure how those cab mounts are mounted in the cab, but thinking about how I've done things like this in the past...I would take a cut off tool and cut a door in the side of the mount to access the nut that has broken loose. Then weld the nut in place so it won't move and try like I said in my previous post. Once its out and your confident with your weld on your nut (so it won't break loose when you install a new bolt). Close the door you cut and weld it shut. Good luck with it, most of the time these things we make a bigger deal out of in our minds then what it actually takes to do the project. You'll do great!

[drjeffdc]

Ok, finally got new frame, got everything swaped over and put the cab back on last night! I must say, I hope I have not inspired anyone to try and do it this way. after getting the cab back on without destroying myself or the cab I have decided that this is proberly NOT the way to do this job!

[drjeffdc]

Well its alive and running again. got the hood painted and the inside of the fenders. still need to fine tune my fender gaps. Should be on the road soon! LOOKOUT!

[drjeffdc]

finnally got a chance to squirt some paint on it. turned out pretty decent for a shadetree job.

[drjeffdc]

Made me kinda nervous raising and lowering the cab onto the frame. It would be better if you had a lift to do that instead of jacking up each corner alittle at a time. If I had made my platforms alittle taller and more secure it would have been better. I was serously concerned that the cab was going to flip forward on its face a time or two. seems alittle front heavy. You cannot support it in the front as easily with boards because of the transmission is in the way. General Idea of lowering the truck out from under the cab worked out well. Kinda of a crude first time experience. Needs improved upon. Think this way is a little dangerous.

[drjeffdc]

Finnally! Done, all that I Wow, what a ride!

[hugger6933]

I do this for a living and have since 1987. I use a two post lift in my shop to lift the cabs off as well as the beds and the motor/trans. I have even changed a suburban body by myself using that method, talk about being spoiled! It wasn't always that easy. we had tried every thing from tractors with loader buckets to forklifts and everything else in between.your looks to be a good and more important a fairly safe idea. Also I am gonna say looking at the pics there where the frame is kinked you are better off with another frame.I have a frame machine, and most likely would not even load it on the table with that damage because it is made to collapse in that area to keep the damage from entering into the cabin of the truck, back a few years ago the industry used a buzz word "crumple zone". With the new frame[or new to the truck] it will drive right and the fenders will bolt up right and every thing will fit and that helps make a hard job less so and more enjoyable. glad to see you got it going, enjoy your new truck. There is nothing wrong with driving a rebuilt wreck as long as it is done right. Jim