New Clutch, what to get

[1968CHEVYC10]

The clutch in my '68 is about gone, I've never replaced a clutch before so I'm not real sure what I'm lookin' at. It a '75 350 with the original muncie 3spd on the column trans. I've done some looking around on summit, o'reilly's etc, what exactly do I need, or how do I tell, 26 spline vs 10 spline, 10" 10.5" 11" 12" clutch, short vs tall throwout bearing. Thanks for the help!

[Wrenchbender Ret]

There are so many options you need to pull your old clutch out & measure it. Get a complete new kit from a reputable parts store. It will have matching parts. The original probably is the flat spring type. Often the replacement is the beehive type which is fine as long as you use the matching parts. Don't get a reman. They are inconsistent. If you can get a old trans shaft to use for a pilot tool, it is better then the plastic one that comes with the kit.

[LockDoc]

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What wrenchbender said... I have had pretty good luck with the plastic alignment tools but I put a little upward pressure on them while I tighten the pressure plate bolts.

LockDoc

[1968CHEVYC10]

Thanks yall, is it best to just pull the motor/tranny, or can you do it from under?

[peglegs]

A diaphram clutch is easier to depress than a 3 finger my local parts house wanted to give me a 3 finger in place of my stock diaphram and i refused it you might have to request it?

I had my motor out and rebuilt it at the time but yes you can replace the clutch while the engine is in the tranny is heavy and a friends help might be needed or a tranny jack also it is possible to modify a regular floor jack and would require a little welding for bracing to cradle the tranny

[1968CHEVYC10]

Originally Posted by peglegs

A diaphram clutch is easier to depress than a 3 finger my local parts house wanted to give me a 3 finger in place of my stock diaphram and i refused it you might have to request it?

I had my motor out and rebuilt it at the time but yes you can replace the clutch while the engine is in the tranny is heavy and a friends help might be needed or a tranny jack also it is possible to modify a regular floor jack and would require a little welding for bracing to cradle the tranny

Is there and cost/performance difference with the diaphragm clutch? I'm on pretty tight budget so if need be I can survive with a stiff pedal, but if it's the same price it'd be nice.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

There probably is no difference in price but you don't want to use the 3 finger clutch.
If it has a 3 speed trans. That model truck is about the easiest one out there to put a clutch in. After you pull the trans. you can unbolt the clutch & drop it out through the bottom of the bell houseing. If you are fairly strong you can handle the 3 speed yourself. I used to do them all the time like that but I am too old to now.

[peglegs]

68chevy c-10 yes same price for mine anyway

[Shyguy]

I got a new clutch kit for my '71 at one of the box stores for right at $120. I just asked for the one that was for the year of the engine and transmission I had. It was easy to install and works great.

[1968CHEVYC10]

Thanks guys, I'll try and get the clutch pulled today, then go from there.

[1968CHEVYC10]

Got the trans pulled last night, went really well for a first attempt, I'm about to start on the clutch.

Didn't have one of those tranny cradles so I rigged something up.

[69 longhorn]

That a 1 1/8" 10 spline shaft....show us the flywheel, & we can give some input on the clutch size

[1968CHEVYC10]

Ok according to my chilton manual I need an alignment tool, basically a copy of that input shaft to use when I remove the pressure plate, is this something that would come with the new clutch? Or can I get through the loan-a-tool at o'reilly's or where ever?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1968CHEVYC10

Ok according to my chilton manual I need an alignment tool, basically a copy of that input shaft to use when I remove the pressure plate, is this something that would come with the new clutch? Or can I get through the loan-a-tool at o'reilly's or where ever?

You don't need the alignment tool to remove the pressure plate you only need it to install the new clutch disk and tighten up the new pressure plate...

LockDoc

[PanelDeland]

A plastic one usually comes with a clutch "KIT" but they are not as good as an old input shaft as stated above.It's usually recommended to surface the flywheel when doing a clutch and it has always seemed to help the clutch last longer when I do it that way.However if the flywheel is in good shape I have done tham without the resurface.You should be able to do a search and find pics with examples of flywheel problems.

Here's some info
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf40459.htm

[oldblue1968chevy]

Kit will come with a 'plastic tool'

find an old hot rodder he will usually have a trans shaft chopped off (steel) for a tool..

[69 longhorn]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Kit will come with a 'plastic tool'

find an old hot rodder he will usually have a trans shaft chopped off (steel) for a tool..

Yup, that shaft most likely came out of a busted trans....all the old rodders NEVER backed out of the throttle tween shifts To add a little good info, as posted , the plastic tool is not as good as the "real deal" crazyAl

[1968CHEVYC10]

Ok guys, I am the world worst procrastinator, but I finally got the clutch out, and it's an 11", I'm pretty sure it's a 1 1/8" spline shaft, but I haven't measured, so I will double check tomorrow. So, assuming a 1 1/8" 10 spline shaft, and 11" clutch, this should work right? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1351&ppt=C0015

[oldblue1968chevy]

just take everything to the store with you..

clutch, maybe get pressure plate resurfaced TB bearing and clutch

oh and get a new pilot bearing

[1968CHEVYC10]

Ok picked up the new clutch set, it came with a new pressure plate, throwout bearing, and a pilot bushing. Now to get it all put back together.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Thats what you want! GET TO WERK

[1968CHEVYC10]

Got it in! Wow that took awhile, now just need to hook up the parking brake cable, adjust the linkage and test drive it. But I'll save that for tomorrow.

[1968CHEVYC10]

Ok took it for a test drive, results weren't all that great, first off reverse didn't work, it would shift into it fine, but when I let off the clutch, gears would grind and it would pop into neutral (this is a 3spd on the column btw). It's done this before but it would usually start rolling then pop out of gear, here it just grinds. Ok now the forward gears seemed ok, only thing is acceleration was kinda rough, and if you let off the gas with it in gear the truck would kinda lurch every few seconds. It may be the motor thats causing this, because it would stumble when I got on it, although no slipping as far as I could tell. Any help would be really awesome!

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Seems like you need some adjustment on the shift linkage. It must not be going into reverse all the way. The rest sounds like engine tuneup from your description.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Lol We will help you get it

I was told I needed about a 1" of freeplay @ the clutch pedel