Replacing rear coils tonight, need some advice - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dubie · 06-10-2002, 04:56 PM

I have already soaked all the bolts in WD-40, and am thinking I may need to heat them with the torch to get them off. Anyone have advice on aby other ways of doing it? I have thought of using the cutting torch and cutting the bolts, but I don't wanna damage the keepers.

**68SWB4x4** · 06-10-2002, 05:08 PM

expect lots of the stuff to be ALOT ruster than it looks, probaly will have to replace the spring keepers and such

68ChevC10 · 06-10-2002, 05:32 PM

Get ready to go out and buy replacement bolts. I snapped two bolts and a ratchet adapter when I replaced mine. My lower spring cups were fine, though. I am still using them. Lots of WD40, marine lube, etc.

68ChevC10

stllookn · 06-10-2002, 05:58 PM

I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and pushed on it with my feet. Sheared the bolt off! Finally I broke my breaker bar! Heat...why not can't be any worse!

**StingRay** · 06-10-2002, 07:10 PM

Need a bf hammer to drive whatever you have left of the bolt through the control arm once you break or remove the nut from the retaining bolt. An air hammer with a flat drift type chisel in it can work well for getting the bolt through as well. If you don't already know all possible cuss words by now you are about to learn. Then again you could be trying to get the u-bolts that hold the diff onto the control arms, the spring bolts are easy compared to those.

dubie · 06-10-2002, 08:01 PM

IT'S DONE!!!!!
Can't go wrong witht he torch. I ground off the bolt head on the first lower coil, and after that i said "F#@K THIS!!!! Took 10 minutes with the torch. The passanger side , upper was a bit tricky because the brake lines are right there. But I managed to stay away from them and cut the bolt. Now I have to buy all new hardware (nut and bolts) And install the new coils tomorrow night. I never realised how much the back end sags when there are no coils on it. It rests right on the diff.!!!! So I blocked it with a rough 6x6 until I can get the new coils in. Thanks for all the advice guys!!

dubie · 06-11-2002, 09:13 AM

Should I be buying grade 8 or better, or will grade 5 bolts do for this??

Low69CST · 06-11-2002, 09:30 AM

I would get grade 8, i mean, like a dollar difference?

**MikeB** · 06-11-2002, 05:55 PM

If you're going to shorter coils, I highly recommend Early Classic Enterprises' shock relocation brackets. They relocate the upper and lower mounts to make the shocks more vertical. After lowering the rear, the shocks lay down so much, they hardly move, which means they can't do their job. When mounted vertically, the shocks have a longer stroke and can dampen better. This kit makes a BIG difference in how the rear reacts to bumps.

06-10-2002, 04:56 PM	#1
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	Replacing rear coils tonight, need some advice I have already soaked all the bolts in WD-40, and am thinking I may need to heat them with the torch to get them off. Anyone have advice on aby other ways of doing it? I have thought of using the cutting torch and cutting the bolts, but I don't wanna damage the keepers. __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-10-2002, 05:08 PM	#2
68SWB4x4 Strongman Garage Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Salinas, CA Posts: 10,241	expect lots of the stuff to be ALOT ruster than it looks, probaly will have to replace the spring keepers and such __________________ Kalle 68 GMC Suburban 1500 4x4 SOLD 69 Pontiac Lemans 99 Silverado 4.8 5 speed ECSB [ Facebook Instagram Subscribe on YOUTUBE

06-10-2002, 05:32 PM	#3
68ChevC10 I am Kayser Soze Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 116	Get ready to go out and buy replacement bolts. I snapped two bolts and a ratchet adapter when I replaced mine. My lower spring cups were fine, though. I am still using them. Lots of WD40, marine lube, etc. 68ChevC10 __________________ 1968 Chevrolet C10 Stepside. My driver. Ain't life cool.

06-10-2002, 05:58 PM	#4
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and pushed on it with my feet. Sheared the bolt off! Finally I broke my breaker bar! Heat...why not can't be any worse! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

06-10-2002, 07:10 PM	#5
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	Need a bf hammer to drive whatever you have left of the bolt through the control arm once you break or remove the nut from the retaining bolt. An air hammer with a flat drift type chisel in it can work well for getting the bolt through as well. If you don't already know all possible cuss words by now you are about to learn. Then again you could be trying to get the u-bolts that hold the diff onto the control arms, the spring bolts are easy compared to those. __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

06-10-2002, 08:01 PM	#6
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	IT'S DONE!!!!! Can't go wrong witht he torch. I ground off the bolt head on the first lower coil, and after that i said "F#@K THIS!!!! Took 10 minutes with the torch. The passanger side , upper was a bit tricky because the brake lines are right there. But I managed to stay away from them and cut the bolt. Now I have to buy all new hardware (nut and bolts) And install the new coils tomorrow night. I never realised how much the back end sags when there are no coils on it. It rests right on the diff.!!!! So I blocked it with a rough 6x6 until I can get the new coils in. Thanks for all the advice guys!! __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-11-2002, 09:13 AM	#7
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	Should I be buying grade 8 or better, or will grade 5 bolts do for this?? __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-11-2002, 09:30 AM	#8
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I would get grade 8, i mean, like a dollar difference? __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

06-11-2002, 05:55 PM	#9
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,475	If you're going to shorter coils, I highly recommend Early Classic Enterprises' shock relocation brackets. They relocate the upper and lower mounts to make the shocks more vertical. After lowering the rear, the shocks lay down so much, they hardly move, which means they can't do their job. When mounted vertically, the shocks have a longer stroke and can dampen better. This kit makes a BIG difference in how the rear reacts to bumps. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!



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