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09-29-2012, 05:50 PM | #1 |
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Well I found my water leak.
Ok, I decided to replace my broken ac cowl flapper. Well pulled the cowl and old flapper out last night and as usual, found a lot more rust than I wanted. I broke out the sand blaster and got it fairly clean, and soaked it with ospho. As you can see by the pics, I'm wondering the best way to fix the holes. My thought was por's then I guess wipe some bonds over it. Is there anything better than bondo? Keep in mind, welding is out of the question. I want it to look as factory as possible when I done, so any and all ideas are welcome.
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-29-2012, 05:57 PM | #2 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
Ok, bear with me, it's only letting upload one pic at a time. Here's some before pics. There was a silicone like seal over and hiding all the rust.
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-29-2012, 05:59 PM | #3 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
After sand blasting
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-29-2012, 06:01 PM | #4 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
More after, with the ospho on it.
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-29-2012, 10:26 PM | #5 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
Wow, so I guess bondo is the way to go? Could someone please post some pics of what that area should look like. I've lost some metal and need to figure out how to rebuild that area so the vent will seal and work. Thanks!
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-30-2012, 01:30 AM | #6 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
POR makes a putty that is pretty good for filling in areas. It's a two party putty and gives you about fifteen to twenty minutes to work with it once mixed. Consistency of really tough playdough, easy to work with.
It's some tough stuff, easy to fill in areas with. Hard as a rock when dry. It's a good filler for areas like that. Just try to smooth it in as best as you can before it dries. Mix a little at a time, so you don't waste it.
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1972 C10 Highlander - The making of a daily driver |
09-30-2012, 06:22 AM | #7 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
I second the POR putty.I filled a small hole around 10 years ago and the paint over the top of it still looks good . No cracks or shrinkage. Chris
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09-30-2012, 09:43 AM | #8 | |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
Quote:
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
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09-30-2012, 09:52 AM | #9 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
I found a couple of different POR 15 products. Any suggestions as to which would work best for what I'm doing?
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-30-2012, 09:53 AM | #10 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
Or this one?
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1970 CST LB Fleetside, 402 BB, PS, PB,AC 1968 Firebird 400 conv. 1965 Chris Craft 17' wood ski boat (SN #0001) |
09-30-2012, 10:20 AM | #11 |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
This is the epoxy they are talking about. The other tube of POR patch is just a thicker version of POR 15. The 2 part epoxy is incredible stuff. I used it to fasten a couple of tiles that had popped off in my swimming pool. Those tiles have now been in place for approximately 10 years...under water
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
09-30-2012, 03:09 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Well I found my water leak.
Quote:
is the one I've used. Very good for filling in rust spots. I usually let it dry for 24 hours, then go back with a die grinder or sander, and smooth it down. POR also makes a product called Marine Clean and Prep & Ready. You definitely want to use (at a minimum) the Prep & Ready on the rusted metal. Keep it moist for about thirty minutes. Use a small metal brush to clean the metal and prep it. If you have an air compressor, after about thirty minutes of keep it moist, hit with the air hose to dry it off really good. Once the putty dries for 24 hours, and you've sanded it down (you really need a power type sander...this stuff is very hard), coat it with POR-15. Wear a long sleeve shirt that you don't mind sacrificing and rubber gloves. If you get POR-15 on your skin, use paint thinner or something equivalent to get it off *immediately*, or you're going to be wearing it for the next 3-4 days until it wears off naturally. I guarantee you, if you don't cover up and wear the rubber gloves, you'll get it on you no matter how careful you are! I know first hand Other than that, there's no real mystery to it. Very good stuff. Just prep the metal good before using the products for best adhesion. Oh, makes a good practical joke if you want to paint someone's finger nails while they are sleeping It's impossible to describe how tough it is to get that stuff off!
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