air bag ? / static drop ?

[meathead95]

which do you think would be better a 4/6 drop from ece or this http://ridetech.com/productinfo/rideproe.asp i am leaning toward the air as this is going on my 2wd blazer and i might need to pull my car trailer once and awhile. give me your thoughts and why?
thanks
keith

[SCOTI]

Static drop up front, bags out back. Cheaper than 4whl bags & more adjustable than a static only drop when the time comes for work....

[Elsie72]

A 6" spring drop doesn't leave much room for rear suspension compression, especially with a trailer out back. I'd go with bags in the rear, as SCOTI suggested

[crews]

As I have done a static drop on a 2wd Blazer ( YEARS ago.. ), I would recommend a static with air assist springs for the "occasional' towing duites. I would never have an Airride system on anything you want to drive daily.

You also want to make sure that you move the gas tank up in the frame as it has a tendancy to get in the way with a little weight on them.

Just my 2 cents....which, according to my wife, is worth exactly -.00023 cents

[screamin_c102]

Originally Posted by crews

I would never have an Airride system on anything you want to drive daily.

You have my undivided attention, why don't you like air ride?

I am very close to installing it on Screamin' and would like some more advice.

So far I've gotten a lot of pros but not too many cons on it. Have you had a bad experience with it? I had one guy tell me about a bag blowin' and taking a front tire with it (body contact).


I used to consider her a daily driver but with gas prices at $2.52 a gallon I look at her more as a lawn ornament now.

I'd like to cruise her this summer but I ride with my sons so I don't want any safety issues.

Thanks in advance....Bill

[XXL]

Originally Posted by crews

I would never have an Airride system on anything you want to drive daily.

5+ years and still going strong (which is more than I can say for the paint).

[crews]

Originally Posted by XXL

5+ years and still going strong (which is more than I can say for the paint).

I didn't mean to imply that they are not reliable. IMHO opinion they are not ideal for a daily driver. I have never owned one myself, but have been involved with lowered trucks for the last 20 years. In every truck I have ridden in that has had an Airride system, they rode like crap. To get the truck to ride "right" you had to air up the system so they look like a stocker going down the road. Plus there always seemed to be only one good spot where the truck rode right.
I drive my stuff too much on a daily basis to be worried about air lines coming into contact with anything, bags blowing or hardware coming loose. When I built my 2wd Blazer in '87, there were no kits or bags available. We had to do some creative engineering to get the truck down low and still ride right. Since then, there have been numerous kits available for our year trucks, so there are more choices and more opinions.

I also know that most ( if not a huge majority) of the BIg Rigs have Air bags on the rear. But I can also tell you from experience that those trucks only ride well with WEIGHT on them and the bags set up at a predetermined air pressure. They are designed for creating a "cushion" for the cargo during transportation. Not exactly the same utilization on a lowered vehicle.

Again- I am not a fan of Airride. There are many people who are and have had great success with Airride. Just not my deal. I don't want to be in the middle of no where America on a Sunday afternoon and lose a bag/ line/ fitting. All of the trucks/ cars I have lowered have been lowered using a static drop. My main concern is ride quality/ control followed by the unmistakable stance that only a lowered vehicle can provide.


Not trying to stir any Airirde supporters up. Differences make this place great!!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by crews

When I built my 2wd Blazer in '87, there were no kits or bags available.

My first "bagged" vehicle (of 2, actually... everything else -- dozens -- have been static) was an '87 Mazda B2200. It was also an early "layin frame" truck). I built it back in '87, and used conventional air shocks front and rear that were attached to a Gabriel HiJacker (I think that was the name of it) in-cab shock adjustment unit. It let me raise and lower the air shock pressure remotely. I used it to get the extra 3" lift needed to keep from ripping parts of the front end (any more than usual, at least). The truck tucked a whole lot of 15" Momo Aries wheel, and sent sparks-a-flyin on a regular basis. After a year or so I decided to remove the spare from under the truck (since it could never have actually been used) and found a dozen or so different road dots... the plastic reflector thingies between lanes. For those of you familiar with I-20 between Arlington and Duncanville, TX, you know there's a slight crown between the 2 middle lanes. You might also notice that a lot of the road dots are missing. 18+ years ago, that was my doing.

linkie to a few pics

[smokekiki]

Originally Posted by crews

I also know that most ( if not a huge majority) of the BIg Rigs have Air bags on the rear. But I can also tell you from experience that those trucks only ride well with WEIGHT on them and the bags set up at a predetermined air pressure. They are designed for creating a "cushion" for the cargo during transportation. Not exactly the same utilization on a lowered vehicle.



Not trying to stir any Airirde supporters up. Differences make this place great!!

All the tractors I had [and 90% of allother otr tractors]were set up with leveling valves.When You are bobtailing,there is lets say 30lbs of air in the bags.Hook up to trailer,and as you are being loaded,the air pressure goes up.The truck doesn't ride any higher,just more air in the bags.When the gauge on my last truck was at 60 psi,I had very close to 80000lbs.My tractor rode better than my suburban!And the majority of frieght hauled doesn't need to be on air.Most city trucks are not on air.The biggest plus of air on an otr truck is lower maintanace.

[meathead95]

i think i decided to go with the ece 4/6 drop. do i need a c notch with this drop? i think the air ride has to manu veriables to go wrong with a daily driver

[meathead95]

ive never had it but i figure as a daily driver you can have problems with bags, air lines, compressor, valves i think their is just to many variables that could cause problems on a truck i rely on to get to work with

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by meathead95

ive never had it but i figure as a daily driver you can have problems with bags, air lines, compressor, valves i think their is just to many variables that could cause problems on a truck i rely on to get to work with

You won't have any problems if the air system is installed correctly. Keep in mind that most 18 wheelers and many large motor homes have air suspension.....

[shifty]

For an immediate solution, I would hafta agree with Scoti - drop spindles and springs in the front should get you down at least 4-5" and putting bags will let you control the ass end while towing. The best part about bags is they're adjustable - so you can inflate them more to compensate for heavier loads. If you get a good set of bags and a solid compressor you should have no probs. Just be sure not to skimp on your valves and plumbing (can you tell I've been reading too many threads on bags lately? hehe)

There is a member on the board that goes by 'bagged91' and he seems to be the guru when it comes to knowing what bags, compressors, valves and lines to use.

The best part of this setup is tossing on new spindles and springs is a one hour job if you got disc brakes in the front...and it's SO easy to install bags on the back because you can remove the bed with the help of one other person and have access to everything back there.

There's that kickass article on tossing bags in your ride over in the FAQ forum with pictures and everything.

['70_402]

Originally Posted by shifty

There's that kickass article on tossing bags in your ride over in the FAQ forum with pictures and everything.

i looked and couldn't find it... can someone help me out here...

[perrosinpata@aol.com]

How many valves would you need for air asist in the back?

[SCOTI]

My set-up is all manual control so I don't have to worry about valves.

When I first installed my bag set-up, I used schrader valves to fill my system (rear bags only). After using the schrader valve fill method for about 1.5yrs, I stepped up & added a 3gal tank, a small 315 Thompson compressor, & a dual needle gauge/controller from AirRide. Both ways work fine, but I must say the 'automation' of the tank/comp/contoller is much more 'user friendly' (it's funny how hard it is to see schrader valves @ 5am in the morning ).

Using the 'manual-automated' method (no solenoids/valves) . . .....
1) Is much cheaper than going w/the solenoids/valve set-up.
2) Requires more fullsize airlines to be run inside the cab (I used existing fuel vent-line holes for routing my airlines into the cab).
3) Is much more convenient than having to use the schraders when you adjust the ride height a lot.
4) Is pretty basic as far as air-ride systems go. But, I have not had 1 single problem in over 4yrs. of daily use. This sytem allowed me to tow my 18ft steel floor car trailer loaded w/another swb project truck, w/no problems.

Based on my experience w/previous dropped (coil-spring) trucks in comparison to my beater (w/rear bags), I won't use rear drop springs again. I don't dislike rear dropped coils, it's just that the bags give a better ride IMO & are adjustable when needed.

[GreyHoundSteve]

meat, i came to the same conclusion as you. I was faced with the same decision a few months ago and i really wanted to go with bags because of the adjustability and the cool factor but in the end i just couldnt bring myself to do it because my wife and daughter will be traveling with me on occasion and my truck will be a daily driver. I know guys with bag experience will tell you that youll never have a problem if they are installed corectly but then you hear about guys who do have problems and i would never take any chances with my family's lives.

As a side note, one of my friends recently had a bag go out on him on i35 and luckily he was okay but the front driverside bag went flat at 70mph and when that happened the tire rubbed the fender and the fender cut the sidewall of the tire open like a tin can. I saw his truck afterwords and it wasnt in too bad of shape considering but he told me that he was going to fix the truck and then sell it. If it were just me who would be in the truck i would probably go with bags. They look great and give you more options. Also, most factory equiped bagged vehicles arent designed to "lay out" so there is little to no risk involved in those systems but people who bag their classic trucks dont set them up that way and so there is allot more risk involved when a problem occurs. My mom use to have a mark 8 with bags and she had 2 of them go out and didnt even know what the problem was until ther dealer told her so it was no big deal but my friend with the bagged Dakota could have been killed or worse yet, killed someone else when his bag failed.

[smokekiki]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=129463 air bag install. I have over a million miles driving a tractor trailer that was on air.Only had 1 bag fail and 1 valve fail.The quick fill valves that are run on air ride systems "We" called cheater valves.They were fast enough to to dump and fill each axle independently.I could get on a toll road at class 8 wieght,but make the axle scales think I was a class 6.On the pa turnpike it saved $15.00 each way!I am putting air on my daily driver.I am going with a york compressor,and as long as You have the bags protected,the lines ran right,and proper bump stops,it is no more dangerous than a static drop.I personaly am not building a truck that can lay frame.My bumpstops will keep it from crashing into the ground.

[72MARIO]

Every big transport has Air ride. I dont understand why it would not be ideal on a light truck used daily . If installed properly it should be no problem at all.

[Frank_Zeller]

I have the 4.5/6 static drop with air-lift bags in the rear springs. The bags with hardware were only 65.00. Have towed and hauled very heavy stuff. Rides better with a load in the bed and a little air in the lifts. Need less than 20 psi. These trucks tow a whole lot better when there lowered.

[crews]

Originally Posted by Frank_Zeller

I have the 4.5/6 static drop with air-lift bags in the rear springs. The bags with hardware were only 65.00. Have towed and hauled very heavy stuff. Rides better with a load in the bed and a little air in the lifts. Need less than 20 psi. These trucks tow a whole lot better when there lowered.

BTW Frank- If that is your truck in your avatar- That is SWEEEEEETTTT!!

I love the stance.

[meathead95]

I just went ahead and ordered the ece 4/6 drop thanks for the opinions
later
keith

[Frank_Zeller]

I can dig up the rear spring Air-lift part numbers if any ones interested

[FRENCHBLUE72]

My 97 expedition has em and I love em factory installed and it rides great self level's I am gonna go with bags on my 7nd2..