Project 1966 K20 adventure rig

[72cs20]

Here is the beginning of my effort to put together a cool back country travelling 66' K20. Right now I'm in a parts search and acquisition phase. Things like later style axles, power steering, update the brake system and bigger fuel behind the rear axle to start off. When I do the axle swaps I'll also rebuild the suspension. Then complete new wiring, interior work and more than likely Vintage Air.

That is the plan overview. The subject -


Right now I need to get the truck to drive and handle safely so I can actually use it. The first problem to be tackled is the worn out driver side lower knuckle bearing. So far I've gotten the knuckle assembly torn down and ready for the new parts, which should be here early this week. The upper bearing seems to be in good shape, but both will be replaced.

Knuckle dis-assembled and ready for new bearings -


Dis-integrated lower bearing -


Along with this repair, I'll be setting up the power steering conversion for use with this closed knuckle axle. Then it will be an easy change over when the open knuckle axle goes in.

More soon...

[jdl71]

Sub'd.

[66K20]

This will definitely be a fun build to watch.

[jcramsey]

Looking forward to this one. Saw your camper in you daily driver build. Looks awesome!

[72cs20]

Alright guys, thanks for following along with this one. I've been making some progress in my effort to get this truck safely road worthy.

I got the new knuckle bearing set for the drivers side installed and everything went in no problem. Knuckle re-assembled -


Brake drum and hub all re-assembled -


Now here is a pic of what I will be installing into this truck in the near future -


This is a Dana 44 and 14 bolt set from about 1976. My gearing and differential options will be greatly expanded with these axles. Parts cost should be way lower too.

I also started my power steering conversion. The steering box is mounted to the frame with Capt. Fab's adapter plate. The provided 2wd frame template works well with the 4wd frame to get the steering box located in the right spot.


Drag link -



Interestingly I will be using the Ididit tilt column from my recently sold 62 C20(link in sig)for this truck.. The nice man I sold the 62 to is going with an Ididit column for an automatic trans and has offered the manual trans column back to me for use in this 66 K20. The 62 now resides in Phoenix, Az. so keep an eye out for it you guys in Phoenix.

[72cs20]

This week my new old Ididit steering column arrived from Phoenix. So I got to work on finishing the power steering installation using the Ididit column and the stock 66 steering wheel. When this column was in the 62, I had a fancy wood Grant three spoke steering wheel installed. I never really liked that steering wheel. To me it was too small in diameter and had too much "dish". I like the stock 60-66 wheel more.

On Ididit's website they say the stock 60-66 steering wheel will not fit on the column they sell for the 60-66 trucks. On the phone Ididit told me that some wheels fit and some don't and to just try fitting it. Well mine fit so that is what I'm using this time.


As with the last truck I'm sticking with Ididit's telescoping intermediate shaft and u-joints at each end. No rag joint. Intermediate shaft marked for cutting and fitment -


Shaft and u-joints installed -


The engine in this truck had only a single groove crank pulley. So I picked up a new double groove pulley with an add on single groove. The PS pump uses the third groove out. Had to ditch the 1/2 inch long crank pulley bolts for some new 3/4 inch versions -


The steering box, pump and hoses were all ordered for a 73 K20. The v-belt is a Gates 36 1/8 inch belt. The belt actually could be an inch shorter. That would keep the pump reservoir cap out from under the alternator. But right now it works fine.

[72cs20]

The 73 K20 hoses are a very good initial fit. They could use a little tweeking with a bender. I wish I could figure out where I put mine.


Bottom view of pump with mounting bracket -



I used a simple bracket from Alan Grove Components. It utilizes the two threaded holes that were used for the engine mounts on the 55-59 V8 trucks, with the support arm going to a motor mount bolt. It all fit perfectly.


The end result is a huge success. It is now pinky finger steering effort. No leaks or noises. Woohoo!

Next up is to figure out what do with the engine. It leaks from all over so it needs to come out to be re-sealed at minimum. But if I'm going to pull it, it probably should be gone through. Cost for a 327 re-build for torque or do a crate engine? Decisions, decisions. Inputs welcome.

[raylube]

Looks good . Can you give some info on steering arm modifications?

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Alright guys, thanks for following along with this one. I've been making some progress in my effort to get this truck safely road worthy.

I got the new knuckle bearing set for the drivers side installed and everything went in no problem. Knuckle re-assembled -
Attachment 1814949

Brake drum and hub all re-assembled -
Attachment 1814936

Now here is a pic of what I will be installing into this truck in the near future -
Attachment 1814945

This is a Dana 44 and 14 bolt set from about 1976. My gearing and differential options will be greatly expanded with these axles. Parts cost should be way lower too.

I also started my power steering conversion. The steering box is mounted to the frame with Capt. Fab's adapter plate. The provided 2wd frame template works well with the 4wd frame to get the steering box located in the right spot.
Attachment 1814939

Drag link -

Attachment 1814938

Interestingly I will be using the Ididit tilt column from my recently sold 62 C20(link in sig)for this truck.. The nice man I sold the 62 to is going with an Ididit column for an automatic trans and has offered the manual trans column back to me for use in this 66 K20. The 62 now resides in Phoenix, Az. so keep an eye out for it you guys in Phoenix.

What drag link are you using?

[72cs20]

jd,

I put that draglink together using part numbers provided by 61k10 in his build thread. I wrote them down but I'll need to go through my notes.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

jd,

I put that draglink together using part numbers provided by 61k10 in his build thread. I wrote them down but I'll need to go through my notes.

I read his post and got the part #s. Thanks

[jdl71]

Whats your plans for the old stuff you're removing?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Whats your plans for the old stuff you're removing?

Don't really know yet, but I'll using the brake cables for patterns to have some new ones made for the 14 bolt. My cables are intact but completely frozen.

Do you still need pics of the brake cables? You mentioned something about that in another thread. If so, I can post some.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Don't really know yet, but I'll using the brake cables for patterns to have some new ones made for the 14 bolt. My cables are intact but completely frozen.

Do you still need pics of the brake cables? You mentioned something about that in another thread. If so, I can post some.

That's what I was wondering about. I think I got a good enough view from one of the pics with the bed off. Your cable setup looks just like mine and those rear cables seem to be almost unobtainium. I did find today that inline tube lists them, but there's no pic or specs. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if they can give me some more info, they list regular zinc coated for $55 and stainless for $65.

I don't mean to tell you what to do with your stuff so please don't take it that way but some of that eaton stuff is getting super hard to find, especially from the backing plate out. I hope you will consider offering it for sale before it goes to scrap.

[jdl71]

Looks good. Can this be done with the Eaton also or are the mounting pads on the axle housing different?

[72cs20]

I did look into the possibility of using the Eaton with the newer style suspension. The spring pad width on the Eaton is 40 inches. The closest newer set up I could find would be for a 73-87 single wheel K30 which has a spring pad width of 40.5 inches. Off Road Design(ORD) sells these narrower hangers as well. So it would be a quarter inch difference on either side and could possibly work without moving the spring pads on the Eaton. But in the end, for my intended use as well as cost, the 14 bolt swap with newer style suspension made sense. The spring pad width for the 73-87 K20 14 bolt is 42.5 inches, which is what I'm using. The ORD frame hangers put the springs at the correct width for the K20 14 bolt

Also, when I was disassembling the stock rear suspension I found the rear hangers and shackles were trashed and unusable. The spring and shackle pins were frozen and would not come out. And there was a good amount of material worn away from the hanger and shackle from years of heavy loads and minimal maintenance. Funny thing though, the front spring pins came out easy and looking new. Bushings, pins and shackles are available but finding a good rear hangers could be a hassle.

[jdl71]

Good info as always thank you. I was looking at how to change just the rear springs without changing the hangers and everything else, since like most all other parts for this truck no one carries rear leafs. Do you think the newer springs will fit in the old hangers assuming they are still usable?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Good info as always thank you. I was looking at how to change just the rear springs without changing the hangers and everything else, since like most all other parts for this truck no one carries rear leafs. Do you think the newer springs will fit in the old hangers assuming they are still usable?

You're welcome.

No, the 73+ springs and shackles won't fit the 66 frame hangers. Even though the 66 and 73+ both use a 2 1/2 inch wide spring, the size difference of the hanger and shackle is substantial between the two.

The link below shows a listing for 60-66 replacement springs with bushings included. LMC has the shackles, pins, u-bolts and other things needed if you want to rebuild to stock.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-327.htm

After all these years your hangers will probably show some wear. But if all you want is a good reliable hauler then I would rebuild the rest and leave the hangers alone. For the way I'm going to use my K20, changing to the later style rear suspension seems like a good choice.

[jdl71]

Thank you again. Appreciate all your help.

[72cs20]

With the holidays over and my garage's electrical improvements finished, I figured it is about time to resurrect my thread.

So for starters I've got the rear fuel tank mock up pretty much finished -




Also started further dis-assembly in preparation for lifting the cab off the frame. I initially did not want to go as far as lifting the cab, but the frame on this truck really needs a good cleaning and paint job.

I first removed the core support top covers and found remnants of the original paint. It looks like the truck came with the Fawn color -

[Captainfab]

Is the year application for that K5 Blazer fuel tank '87-'91?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Is the year application for that K5 Blazer fuel tank '87-'91?

Yes it is.

[Rabrantes2011]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

With the holidays over and my garage's electrical improvements finished, I figured it is about time to resurrect my thread.

So for starters I've got the rear fuel tank mock up pretty much finished -
Attachment 1874462
Attachment 1874464
Attachment 1874465

Also started further dis-assembly in preparation for lifting the cab off the frame. I initially did not want to go as far as lifting the cab, but the frame on this truck really needs a good cleaning and paint job.

I first removed the core support top covers and found remnants of the original paint. It looks like the truck came with the Fawn color -
Attachment 1874479

I am trying to find the two upper gas tank brackets you have across the top of the gas tank. Are those sourced from somewhere? Or what material did you use to make them? Thanks

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by Rabrantes2011

I am trying to find the two upper gas tank brackets you have across the top of the gas tank. Are those sourced from somewhere? Or what material did you use to make them? Thanks

Home Depot for all of it. In the metal section of the store and some thick rubber gasketing to go between the metal and the tank, from the door and window section.

[72cs20]

Been awhile since the last update but things are still moving along.

I dropped the truck off at my friends shop to charge the ac system, front wheel alignment and finally have the title transfer and registration taken care of. So now we have cool cab and are road legal.

Now that I can get it out on the road for testing, I found that the steering box had too much slop, and the pitman arm had seen better days. So I swapped the box out for a Redhead unit. I also installed a new two inch drop pitman arm. The truck has a very nice turning circle with tight turns and u-turns no problem. However, I have a bit of wander when driving on uneven sections of road that I need to look into. New steering damper installed too.

Still moving along on the bed too. Storage needed to be addressed so I decided on a box of 30 inches long, 16 inches deep and 14 tall for each side. Maybe something behind the rear wheels later on. We'll see how it goes.