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06-14-2004, 05:05 PM | #1 |
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can you over fill your coolant?
Just got my rad back from the rad shop and dumped some coolant/water mix into it. I stated the engine and coolant was pissing out the back of the engine somewhere, maybe the valve cover?? Can't really see it to good. ANy ideas?
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
06-14-2004, 05:12 PM | #2 |
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Did you run some silicon around the water passages when you installed your inake? That might be where it's coming from. If so you could have coolant running down inside your motor too. I would check your dipstick and see if you have coolant in the oilpan.
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop |
06-14-2004, 05:19 PM | #3 |
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GOD DAMNIT!!! I have milky fkin oil. Besides draining the pan and resealing the intake, what else do I need to do??
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06-14-2004, 05:25 PM | #4 |
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Tim, did you recently install new head gaskets?
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
06-14-2004, 05:40 PM | #5 |
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The engine is brand new and so are the gaskets Jim. I did however remove the intake since it was sealed. Maybe the intake gasket is FUBAR?? it seems like that is where it's pissing antifreeze from anyways is the back corner of the intake manifold. So should I drain the engine, remove the intake, install a new gasket, re seal, fill with new oil, filter and anti freeze and start her up again??
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06-14-2004, 05:44 PM | #6 |
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Tim if you can get it dry and pinpoint for sure it's just a leaky intake, I would drain everything and pull the intake to reseal. Your oil shouldn't have antifreeze in it from a leaky intake corner, I wouldn't think.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
06-14-2004, 06:17 PM | #7 |
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Well.. you could pull the oil pan and clean it out. Then I you could fill her back up with oil, seal the intake up and try and run it for a few to see if the coolant gets back in the oil.... You could be wasting oil and coolant that way though.
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop |
06-14-2004, 06:33 PM | #8 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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there are a couple things I have seen on the sb chev.....yes, a leaky intake gasket will put you where you are(i hope thats it). a blown head gasket(due to warped head or deck)...or cracked head or block(ouch) will also get you into a "milk shake". I would drain the oil, & rinse the eng with kerosene (do not start!) go ahead & swap the intake gaskets, & do a couple oil changes, within a few miles. Go for the easy chit 1st, & work up to the nasty chit....remember the glass is half full best of luck,crazyL
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06-14-2004, 09:21 PM | #9 |
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When you pull that intake off, try to pull it straight up and not slide it end to end or side ways, that way you don't disturb the gaskets as much and you will possibly be able to see where the leak was. If it was pissing out and putting coolant in the oil, it should be easy to see if it was that gasket when you get it off and inspect it. Like crazyL said flush her out with some kerosene, then run a quart or two of oil straight through. Then put the plug in, filler up, a new filter, and just run it for a little while..then change that oil and filter again...don't take any chances with that new engine. Keep an eye on that stick, any sign of milky oil, change it again. I know, might be overkill and alot of wasted oil, but that is cheaper than bearings and a crank. Good luck, Gord
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06-14-2004, 10:18 PM | #10 |
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We are assuming this is a small block? Don't big blocks have some sort of bypass on the back of intake/heads? Or maybe I'm thinking mopar....hmmm
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06-14-2004, 10:58 PM | #11 |
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K about the Kerosene thing... how do I go about doing that properly?
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06-14-2004, 11:31 PM | #12 |
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Since you are going to have the intake off, just pour some around in the intake valley. I suppose you could also fill with oil and prime the oil system with a drill since you will have the dizzy out. After you get it back together, fill it with plain water to check for leaks. You could even do a leak down test on the cooling system before you start it, just go buy the right guage/filler neck adapter from the local auto parts store.
BTW, been there, done that, weren't no fun for me either. Wish I was closer, I'd bring the beer!
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06-15-2004, 06:07 AM | #13 |
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My sons 350 crate had this problem when we put it in. The edelbrock performer would not seal with the factory end rubber gaskets in the FelPro kit. We pulled the intake pulled the oil plug and dried it out. We didn't put kero in it but we found the leak before we got milky oil so you might want to do that. Before you reseal the engine dump cam lube all over the lifters and cam, Put the intake on leave the drain plug out fill the rad and look for leaks. Then plug it and fill with oil should be good to go.
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06-15-2004, 08:58 AM | #14 |
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If you use the kero to clean out the milk,make sure you pre-lube the engine again.Do what Walker said,prime it before putting the dist.back in.You don't want to start up with the bearings washed down.Don't forget to Clean out the radiator.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
06-15-2004, 08:58 AM | #15 |
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Sorry to hear about this Dubie. Seems like sometimes you never get a break. Keep your dream in mind and remember how far you have already come. It helps me at times...although I haven't come a long way, So I remember how good it felt to finally get the windshield wiper arms off.
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06-15-2004, 09:05 AM | #16 | |
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06-15-2004, 09:18 AM | #17 |
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Can I not just flush some cheap new oil threw the engine?? Just dump it in the lifter valley and leave the plug out and keep flushing it until it runs clean?? I don't feel right about putting something in the engine that isn't supposed to be in there Any of you guys done this??
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
06-15-2004, 11:03 AM | #18 |
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I don't know if the oil would be thin enough to wash away the milky mix.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
06-15-2004, 11:16 AM | #19 |
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Hope this turns out to be something simple - keeping my fingers crossed for you.
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06-15-2004, 11:59 AM | #20 |
Is that a Chevy 69...?
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uh oh similar situation
I have a 327 that just had rebuilt heads put on, I know theres no sealant around the water passages on the intake, theres only black sealer on the ends with the rubber seals. Its a Mr gasket set it never mentioned putting sealer on the water passages. They are black gasket material, do I need to redo it? Only 50 miles on it since done.
It actually had foggy coolant NOT milky oil wnd it was due to an intake leak it seemed, and the valve guides were bad so it used oil, thats why I had teh heads rebulit. help....
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06-15-2004, 12:31 PM | #21 |
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I picked up some new FEL-PRO blue intake gaskets. They are a lot thicker than the crap ones I had on there before and the shoulders of the water passages are built up so they can be compressed down without any sealant needed. Should I use the rubber end gaskets or just put a thick bead of blue gasket maker between the block and intake to seal it?
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
06-15-2004, 01:51 PM | #22 | |
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Slams_58, I hear you on the headlight switch. It took me a while to figure out where that stupid button was. I helped my buddy put a new dash bezel in his truck a while back, I let him mess with it until he was about to rip it off then I pulled it out for him.... Good times. lol
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop Last edited by Hotrod70C10; 06-15-2004 at 04:07 PM. |
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06-15-2004, 12:58 PM | #23 |
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Dubie,
Ever SB Chevy I have owned for the last 30 yrs had that problem. The intake manifold provides a block or guide for a water jacket in the rear of both heads. You would think GM would figure out these cheap gaskets they put in from the factory or on crates. I never had it happen on a newe engine, but my 96 had it shortly after getting it (95,000). Be thankful fro grean antifreeze, the leaks show up much quicker with it then the new red stuff (doesn't turn your oil milky colored). We have always drained it, wipered down the lifter galley area. Sort of flushed it with cheap oil, reassembled, filled cheap oil, ran it, drained refilled with cheap oil ran it a day or so to check for leakes. Drained and refilled....Normally ran it a week or so, then changes again with the good stuff. I don't know if that is the official way, that was the way I was shown many moons ago and have used. Again, this was always on seasoned engines, but I have never had problems after because of the leaks. Oh yeah...We always filled with antifreeze in the coolant becaue it made it easier to see any leaks or mixing with the oil compared to a straight water mix.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
06-15-2004, 01:32 PM | #24 |
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Dubie you can use a thick bead of silicone at the end's where the rubber gasket goes I perfer to use black as it is hi-temp...
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06-15-2004, 02:24 PM | #25 |
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No it's a stock cast heavier than a ***** intake, so I'm safe
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