Something very wrong..help?

[69-Chevy-350]

I took the old girl to dump some trash..two barrels..nothing heavy and then over to pick up fire wood. On the way to pick up the wood, it was like there was something breaking or falling apart. I pulled over and in nutreul the truck was fine no noise. But when I started sriving I had lost power. When I hit the gas the engine rpm goes up but I can't get any power to go anywhere. Light touches of the gas and she would move but anything more then very light and it just revved. I also smelled some kind burn smell.
If it helps I have a 350 (replacement) and a 3 speed on the floor. Their is basically no gear box as you kind of just through it in the gear you want to go and have faith that it is in right. I was also having difficulty shifting it in gear before this all happened. It was the first time I had problems. I was thinking either the shifter is bad or maybe the tranny is no good. There is a pretty bad leak from the speedometer cable. Any help here guys would be of great help. Sorry this runs so long. I still can't get my digital camera working otherwise I would have pics. Thanks for the help again.

[72c10]

did the burning smell smell like the clutch ?

[racedvl]

Sounds like the clutch went south.

[69-Chevy-350]

I can't say what the clutch smells like. It was unique. almost like oil but it wasn't. It filled up the cab...and there was no smoke..just smelled bad (burnt)

Steve

[72c10]

I agree sounds like your clutch wore out.

[lukecp]

I agree with everyone else.....time for a new clutch.
Luckily it is a pretty easy job to put a new clutch in with a 3-on-the-tree tranny. They are pretty easy to remove/install. Good luck!

[69-Chevy-350]

Originally it was on the tree, but was switched to the floor. What parts am I looking for as far as a clutch and what am I going to spend to replace it? I was at the Chevyduty web page and saw all kinds of stuff. Thanks

Steve C.

[Truckstr]

At LEAST replace the clutch. At most, clutch, pressure plate, and possibly a throw out bearing.

The clutch is the "thang".

Go for it.

Jeff

[ChevLoRay]

My first car had "a new clutch and pressure plate", per the guy I bought it from. It wasn't long until I started having trouble getting it to go in gear without some gear grinding. I was told the throw-out bearing was going bad. I didn't know what a throw-out bearing was, much less how to tell it was going bad.

I do now.

On New Year's Day, 1965, I was about 60 miles from home, to go deer hunting with a friend, kinda off the beaten path, so to speak. I was having more and more trouble shifting gears, and getting it started. So, one of the men at deer camp suggested that we try to get something to help the release bearing (that's what a throw-out bearing really is) to put more pressure on the pressure plate. Heck, sounded good to me and my buddy. So, we found this big brass gas fitting and inserted it between the arm and the rod from the clutch pedal. Worked better. About three times. Then, BAM!!! Clutch pedal is on the floor. I'm still 60 miles from home. Let's see.....put it in gear, start the engine and shift without using the clutch. Yeah, this is working good. Had to drive through a small town, with traffic lights. Ah, made it. Only about 45 more miles to go. Anyway, to make a long story short, the bam that I heard was the fulcrum on the inside of the bell housing breaking loose and permanently engaging the clutch. Heck, I didn't need that throw-out bearing at all.

Bottom line....replace the clutch disc, the pressure plate (also called the clutch cover), the release bearing AND make sure the pilot bushing is still good. It ain't no big deal to replace it, and there is no better time. Get the pilot bushing that is made of the bronze-looking material, not a steel one.

When you go to re-install your transmission, buy a couple of bolts that are the same thread as the transmission bolts, but about 3 to 4 inches long. Then, cut the bolt heads off and grind the ends (where the heads were) so they're rounded off. Take those two modified bolts and thread them into the upper bolt holes for the transmission. When you get ready to "stab" the transmission, slide the upper transmission mounting holes on the long bolts and it should make it alot easier to stab, plus taking some weight off of you as you lay under the truck.

[69-Chevy-350]

Another question. In my BMW which is a standard I would not have to engage the clutch to start it. The same is true for the truck. However my wife's car and any other modern one I have seen, it is required you engage the clutch so you can start the car. Am I right that we need not to engage the clutch to start these old Chevy's?

Steve

[Lightspeed]

some vehicles are like that, i personally would rather have one that the clutch has to be depressed to be started. i used to have an 86 mitsubishi pickup that the clutch didn't need to be depressed to be started. i was fiddling with the keys and accidently turned it to start. wouldn't you know that it started while in gear the very instant the starter engaged. the truck was halfway through the yard before i realized what was happening it was a good thing i was at home so i could change my pants

[Longhorn Man]

On top of doing the clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing...I suggest you to do the pilot bearing, and also remove the flywheel and get it resurfaced.
You're in there already, and even though it isn't too much work to get there, you'll be cussin up a storm when you say you shoulda done it last time.
It's kinda like takin a shower and putting on dirty underwear.

[Longhorn Man]

The bolts I posted above are the kind ChevLoRay was refering to.

[72c10]

hey 69-chevy-350
I would check with napa first to see if they carry these parts, ill be they do and they might be less than a restoration parts supplier. Good luck and have fun

[GMCPaul]

The breaking or falling apart was when you finally broke the clutch fiber pads on the disc clutch disc, you can get all the clutch parts at NAPA, Carquest, Autoworks, etc.... or go through Summit Racing. Definately replace clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing/Pilot Bearing and get the flywheel resurfaced as it sounds like you've been driving it a while bad especially to throw the disc's from wear. Since you say that your floor shifter is shift and hope your there you probably have either a Hurst INDY 3spd floor shifter or a MR Gasket one, Point blank if you get a good one it only lasts a year before they have so much slop its unreal, get a Hurst Master Shifter 3spd they are a quality shifter and you'll always know what gear your in and shifting to. Those Mr Gasket & Indy floor shifters break the weld on the cross pin and develop a ton of slop from that plus the wear on the opening side to side and if you try tightening one up on throw the shift becomes so stiff its near impossible to move.
Just my opinion on those floor shifters!!
GMCPaul

[ChevLoRay]

While working for a fork truck sales/service facility, I had the pleasure of selling a clutch job on a Toyota fork lift. The flywheel had to be resurfaced, since it had gotten hot and was checked, very badly. New flywheel was more money than the customer wanted to spend. Heck, I think the total bill was nearly as much as they had paid for the used lift truck. Anyway, resurfacing took a fair amount of material off of the flywheel and we had to compensate by taking a little more off of the surface that mated to the pressure plate, just to make a long story short.

You may have to get another flywheel, if it is burnt too badly. I don't know why I didn't pick up on that in the beginning. Good point to those that did.

[69-Chevy-350]

Thank you all for the insight here. I do have an Indy shifter and is it sloppy. Sounds like the old girl will be out of comission for a while. I have had the truck for three weeks, is this a problem you would say devolped before the period I have had it? I have taken it out twice since then. both times less then 15 miles.

Steve

[Truckstr]

Unless you just aren't familiar with how to drive "stick" (no offense intended), then I would say that it is/was a "pre-existing" condition.

If, for instance, someone "rides" the clutch or pulls to heavy a load, then that can wear down a clutch pretty fast.

What has been described as the corrective action, sounds like a lot of work - and it can be - but IF you plan ahead and get all the right parts ahead of time to do the job, then it's not all THAT bad.

Chalk it up as a learning experience.

If ya need pointers, there's enough help on these boards to get ya through.

Jeff