For Those Doing Disk Brakes. 60-66

[Mongo]

It has been brought up time and time again about doing disk breaks on these 60-66 chevy trucks. So I am going to post this as a sticky in hopes that it will help everyone wanting to do the change. This will be a quick run down list. Ask questions for details.

as time allows I will sit down and edit this post and and a little more detail and then move it to the FAQ section. This thread then will have a redrect to the FAQ.

First you do not have to change the whole crossmember!!!!!
Leave the thing where it is!!!!

1.)remove the old brake lines.

2.)remove the upper and lower A-arms with the spindles attached.

3.)Get a set of arms with disk spindles attached.(72 and up)

4.)Install the newer upper and lower A-arms.

5.)install updated brake lines and hardware.


This will work for 1/2 ton 3/4 ton ect.

[Daniel 61 Apache]

What type of modifications are required for the control arms to bolt up or is it truely pop and swap? I'm assuming that my 61 Chevy is different than the 66, as no one really offers anything for the 60-62 trucks in the aftermarket lineup.

Thanks,

Daniel

[63_C10]

i'd like more info as well....when you have time of course
i want to switch mine over to disc brakes without spending $500+, but want to be able to go back to original just in case. thanks for setting up this sticky! i was about to post a thread asking about it.

[DOUBLE-DINGO]

I am in the process doing such conversion. I didn't replace upper and lower control arms. I did, however, replace the upper and lower ball joints because the control arms are basically the same as the 73-87 trucks. (My truck is a 1965 3/4 ton) I bought a kit from classic perform, but I was not pleased with the metric parts. It's an AMERICAN MADE TRUCK!!!!! NO METRIC PARTS ALLOWED!!!! Of course I didn't find out that they were metric until a couple of years later when I started my project full-on. So, no returns, and more money out of pocket...DANG IT!! I bought inner and outer tie-rod ends, kept the same center link, and got new spindles, calipers, pads, booster/master cylinder, etc. for the disc system. I will replace all of the steel lines and hoses. As soon as I get the frame cleaned and painted I will install all of the aforementioned parts. Right now the frame is bare, with a couple of fuel lines and brake lines attached. I would like to convert the '69 Dana 60 to rear disc but haven't heard of any available kits.

[harley]

Looking forward to more info on this subject. This is going to be my first big project on my truck.

[5ltretr]

I used the entire front end of a 72,crossmember, a-arms,spindles and so on. It was a bolt-in swap. I also used the mastercylinder and brake booster. I think I had to lengthen the brake push rod or used the 72. I also used rearend from same truck and modified the locator bar.

[brawley]

Could you tell me if the control arms and spindles can be swaped from a 73-87 year truck or just 72' do I need to change anything else? how about the rear end? thanks

[soba_03]

Ok I'm about to do this change over on the 61 burb in the avatar. Heres the question has anyone done this with a truck with a hyd clutch? I would like to keep the hyd clutch but not sure how to overcome the dual clutch/brake master cylinder. I'm considering going with a wilwood clutch cylinder behind the master on the fire wall but at this point it's only a theory. Any thoughts of experience would be wonderful.

Thanks!

[badriand]

I did it on mine, got a donor from a 87 suburban. Upper and lower control arms bolted right up. Keeped the calipers off the sub also. I put on 2.5 drop spindles so i went ahead and bought new rotors also. Went pretty smooth, pretty much the only problem i had was get the upper and lower arms off the suburban not much room to work. I also snagged the brake booster, master cyclinder and the proportining valve off the sub since they already went with the setup. Works well.


Forgot to add my truck is a 66.

[1966gmc]

Originally Posted by badriand

I did it on mine, got a donor from a 87 suburban. Upper and lower control arms bolted right up. Keeped the calipers off the sub also. I put on 2.5 drop spindles so i went ahead and bought new rotors also. Went pretty smooth, pretty much the only problem i had was get the upper and lower arms off the suburban not much room to work. I also snagged the brake booster, master cyclinder and the proportining valve off the sub since they already went with the setup. Works well.


Forgot to add my truck is a 66.

What mods did you have to do to get the booster/mc to work with the stock pedal/rod?I really need to do this because I cannot rely on all drums,not the way people drive these days.Also,how much am I to expect to pay for a set-up like this or would it be close to the price of a new kit?

[badriand]

1966GMC i also used the push rod off the suburban and the little lever that attached the push rod to the pedal and made the lever work with my stock pedal. For the booster the bottom holes mounted right up i had to drill 2 new holes through the firewall to help supported the booster, was easily done though. The proportining /booster i hooked to the brake light so when i hit the pedal it charges. The hardest part i thought was having to rerun brake lines and get the right bends and bleed the brakes. I forgot to do picks as i was doing the job mainly because i was to dirty to grab the camera but here are a couple of the booster / cylinder and push rod pedal setup afterwards.

[badriand]

I added a couple extra holes to the brake pedal to adjust the level of the brakes that i felt most comfortable with.

[mtburg71]

Someone post some pics of this conversion, inprogress and some after. Thanks alot.

[mtburg71]

Thanks for the pics, Badriand. Going to have to do the same, but want to install new ball joints on my new control arms before I make the swap.

[badriand]

No problem, i forgot i had to get a new set of adjusting sleeves for the tie rods off of classicperform.com to go from the smaller stock tie rods to the larger ones for the suburban. Also they don't tell you this and it may not happen to all but i had to flip the tie rods the opposite direction to get them to work with the adjusting sleeves because of the left handed threads. If i remember right i took the stock ends on the inner side and the suburban ends on the outside.

[badriand]

I remember what i did now, i had to take the stock outer tie rod ends and put them on the inside the stock inner tie rods would not work. The suburban outside rods worked fine with the adapter.

[Deryl]

I have a 73 donor truck that I am using to swap my 63 to five lug discs. I understand that there is no need to swap the crossmember, but what about the tie rod ends, center link and drag links. Anyboby that has specific information about what I'm going to run into there would be greatly appreciated. I'm pulling the parts from the 73 in two weeks and will bring them home to rebuild. I hope to put them in the 63 sometime before February. Any experienced help would help resolve my reservations about jumping into this.

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by Deryl

I have a 73 donor truck that I am using to swap my 63 to five lug discs. I understand that there is no need to swap the crossmember, but what about the tie rod ends, center link and drag links. Anyboby that has specific information about what I'm going to run into there would be greatly appreciated. I'm pulling the parts from the 73 in two weeks and will bring them home to rebuild. I hope to put them in the 63 sometime before February. Any experienced help would help resolve my reservations about jumping into this.

My neighbor had a 73' C-10 that had been sitting in his yard for several years. I asked him if he would like to get rid of it and he gave it to me. I used the whole cross member and power steering box in my 63. That way everything fits. No matching tie rod ends or drag links. I even used the motor mount towers. The frame on the 73-87's are taller so I cut the towers and welded them back up and it was a slick setup. I then bought headers for 73-87' and they fit beautiful. I used a 9" disc brake reared and bought a new booster/master for 4-wheel disc from CPP. I also disassembled the power steering box had the casting powder coated then sent it to CPP to be reassembled with new internals. That was when CPP was small and you could deal with the owners. They only charged me 20.00 to reassemble. Probably the cheapest thing I did. My steering column is a donor from a 67' Impala I made up the rag joint from parts from both rigs. Can't really remember what i did there. Guess I am going to have to go look. All worked well though. The other thing that is nice about the 73'-87's is they have the rubber bushings as opposed to the metal as 71-72's. I rebuilt the entire front end but, if someone wanted all that would really be required to do the swap is unbolt the entire front cross member roll it under the front of your 60-66 and bolt it up. Mount the steering box, need to make a couple of spacers and weld to the frame, booster/master, brake lines and your done. Of course the engine would have to be out. Makes it easier to make brake lines anyway. The 60-62 requires a bit more work as those years used the torsion bar suspension but, is still an easy swap as well. Just a quick note. The front cross members are basically the same from 63-87 so it makes it an easy swap with updated parts.

[mtburg71]

Deryl, what I have learned from my inprogress swap is this. I am using parts from a 71, installing the upper/lower control arms, first I am going to replace the ball joints. This is were I made my first mistake, I order ball joints for a 64 and not the 71 control arms. The one thing I would check if I was you, would be make sure your outer tie rods will fit properly, lucky for me, my 64 tie rod will work. Just my .02.

Mike

[Deryl]

It's done! I swapped upper and lower control arms, steering box (I already had a leaky early 70s power steering box), tie rod ends, center link etc. and the booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve from the 73. The master cylinder and calipers were used for cores for reman. units:

I had to drill two more holes for the booster bracket so it would bolt up with four bolts. I cut the original brake rod end off after a careful measurement and welded it to the new rod making it 1 and 7/8 inches longer. I'm going to relocate the hole on the brake pedal arm because like a previous poster said the pedal goes almost to the floor. It stops on a dime though.

I replaced all of the control arm bushings and ball joints, but all the tie rod ends, center link etc were in great shape. The donor truck only had 77,000 miles on it and had been well maintained. I didn't even have to replace the wheel bearings. I had to drill one hole for the idler arm. The other hole lined up with an existing hole in the frame. The only glitch I had was that the splines on the new steering box did not line up with those on the existing rag joint. I bought a steering coupler kit from the help isle at Auto Zone and used half of the coupler off the 73 to match the splines.

All and all it was pretty straight forward. The biggest pain was bending new brake lines. I replaced them all since they were 45 years old. I made a bracket and located the proportioning valve on the inside of the frame rail a little to the rear of the firewall.

I finished at 2:30 am Sunday morning and after a short test ride, I drove it 95 miles home. I'll get an alignment done tomorrow, but on the ride home it drove straight as an arrow even though I know the toe in is way off. The difference in the drive, ride and stopping is amazing.

[badriand]

Deryl,

The biggest pain was bending new brake lines

This part will test you patience, this is were i spent most of my time. Bending and re-flaring lines. Attached an image of my prop valve setup to also help give ideas.


This is attached on my right frame rail below the booster.

[mtburg71]

Originally Posted by badriand

Deryl,


This part will test you patience, this is were i spent most of my time. Bending and re-flaring lines. Attached an image of my prop valve setup to also help give ideas.


This is attached on my right frame rail below the booster.

Badriand, if you don't mind me asking. Could you explain where each brake line is going from your Pro valve, also what about that elec connector? Sorry for the newb question, just tring to get my conversion done and want to do it right. Also on the brake booster I have a vacuum line I believe, where does this get connected. Also, if anyone could post a pic of the linkage connection at the firewall in the eng bay would greatly be appreciated. What to see how you have it set up. My brake booster is off a 71 donor. Thanks

[badriand]

If you look at the above pic of the pro valve on the frame rail, the far 2 right lines run up to my master cylinder. Bottom right goes to the right front disc if your facing the front of the truck. Bottom left goes to the left front disk, line at the back goes the rear brakes. The electric connector i ran through a hole in the firewall and connected into the rear brake lights off of the brake pedal. So when you hit the brakes it kicks off the booster. I have an edelbrock carb so i just ran the vacuum line from the booster into the rear of the carb vacuum. You can use any other vacuum ports you have available i just choose that one to make it look a little better. If your referring to the carb linkage check this link out.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=carb+linkage

[mtburg71]

Badriand, thanks. Now will it matter if I still have drums on the rear? Also, did you use the two stock holes and made two new holes to mount the booster? Thanks

[badriand]

I still have drums on back, a lot of new vehicles still have drums on back. I used the 2 stock holes and drilled 2 new ones through the firewall.