1949 Chevy 3100 Build Thread

[Flysocal]

Been looking for a AD truck for several months. Some had title issues, no vin, missing too many parts etc. Came across this 1949 on Craigslist. No engine or transmission but fairly complete minus engine and tranny and a good VIN. Exactly what I wanted since the plan is to run a modern LS engine 4L60 combo. Picked it up for 2500.


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[Flysocal]

Love the look of these old trucks. This Art Morrison farm truck is kinda my inspiration. Mine won't be as low and will be wet black but you get the idea subject to change...

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[Flysocal]

Got her home and started dismantling. The bodywork looks OK. The cab is starting to scare me. Definitely needs new rear lower 1/4 panels and floor pan. The blue isn't the original color looks like it was red. Gonna have the frame and cab blasted and go from there. Hopefully I get the cab off today.


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[Flysocal]

It was between Art Morrison or Scotts Hotrods suspension. Chose Scotts because they are local, made in USA and willing to work with forum members. Ordered IFS with LS mounts and 11" rotors wildwood 4 piston. 4 bar rear with coil overs 9" ford axle. Enough to keep me busy for a while.

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[Flysocal]

Question: is classic industries a good source for parts? They are local I think in Huntington beach
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[Katrina/10]

Nice, I bought a Scott's front end for my truck. Looking forward to watching your installation.

[oldman3]

Welcome to the group, nice looking truck, and nice looking parts...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Welcome Flysocal! Nice truck...AD's are my favorite. Scotts IFS looks really good. I have ordered from Classic however they weren't AD parts.

Good luck with your build. I will be tagging along.

[Flysocal]

Spent some time in the garage today taking things apart. Removing the steering wheel was a bear until I made my own puller. 1/4 scrap metal bar drilled a couple holes 5/16 coarse bolts and wheel came off easy. Lifted the cab off the frame. Getting closer to bare frame. Think I'm gonna work with frame as is and have it blasted after I do all the welding. It's pretty obvious the frame has only surface rust it's pretty solid. The cab unfortunately is a little more work than I would like. Needs new floor, rear lower corners, rear window, firewall, and blasting might reveal even more since it was repainted and has some bondo. I'm gonna look for a new cab and sell mine. Bed parts are pretty bad also. Hood, fenders, doors, grill, frame is good so although I could have done a better job selecting a truck it's not a all bad. Heading out to Scotts hotrods tomorrow to iron out the details on my suspension etc.


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[Flysocal]

Got the frame almost cleaned up. Ground down the rivets on the leaf suspension mounts. Having a hard time getting mounts off. Tried a big hammer. Tried driving a wedge (chisel). Maybe time for heat? Any suggestions how to get these off?


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[iowaboynca]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

Got the frame almost cleaned up. Ground down the rivets on the leaf suspension mounts. Having a hard time getting mounts off. Tried a big hammer. Tried driving a wedge (chisel). Maybe time for heat? Any suggestions how to get these off?

I did everything you did but then used my punch and chisel on my air hammer. That did the job. If the rivet didn't want to move I'd do the x-pattern in the head on the backside and punch it out or take the chisel to the bracket to try to pry it off. Whatever i could get leverage on. Wasn't the easiest thing but I got them off.

[Flysocal]

Picked up an LS1/4L60 out of a 99 Camaro SS supposedly it had been sitting in storage for 15years got a great deal on it.

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[FarmerSid]

Nice build. Grind your rivets down flush. You should be able to see the outline of the rivet. Centre punch and drill a 1/8" or a little larger hole about the thickness of the frame deep or a little deeper. Then take a punch and pound the rivets out. This relieves the stress on the rivets. Try it and see if it works for you.

[Flysocal]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Nice build. Grind your rivets down flush. You should be able to see the outline of the rivet. Centre punch and drill a 1/8" or a little larger hole about the thickness of the frame deep or a little deeper. Then take a punch and pound the rivets out. This relieves the stress on the rivets. Try it and see if it works for you.

This worked thanks
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[84blaze]

Nice score on the engine!

[Flysocal]

Already picking out wheels. Really like the foose F099 but they are only available in 17 and 18. 18x8 is perfect for front but no 20 available for rear. Just a 18x9.5 which might be fine if I run a little more meat.

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[Dan in Pasadena]

Inc project, looks like you're moving right along.

I just removed a bunch of rivets on my '55.2 about a month ago. Ground them flush and used a big flat faced 1/4" punch and a 3 lb single jack. Took a few hits and was at times hard to see the outline of the rivet with the head ground smooth but I got them all off. Stick with it.

Looking forward to watching your progress. I'm relatively nearby in Pasadena. If you need an extra sets if hands drop me a PM and we can exchange contact information, maybe give each other a hand here and there.

[Flysocal]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Inc project, looks like you're moving right along.

I just removed a bunch of rivets on my '55.2 about a month ago. Ground them flush and used a big flat faced 1/4" punch and a 3 lb single jack. Took a few hits and was at times hard to see the outline of the rivet with the head ground smooth but I got them all off. Stick with it.

Looking forward to watching your progress. I'm relatively nearby in Pasadena. If you need an extra sets if hands drop me a PM and we can exchange contact information, maybe give each other a hand here and there.

Thanks buddy might hold you to it.

Frame is almost cleaned up. Took a wire wheel to the top and sides then flipped it over to get better leverage on some stubborn rivets. Will get the engine cross member and remaining rivets pounded out tomorrow. Then it will be ready for Scott's ifs and 4 bar. Should be ready in a couple weeks! Looks like I will need 1 running board bracket or maybe I can weld it. Not going with the foose wheels because I want a 20" rear. Thinking about Boyd's junkyard dog in chrome. They come in 18x7 or 8 front and 20x9 rear. Does anybody have any advise for my vin? It's worn out and has yellow paint all over it. Is there repops available?



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[HUSSEY]

Nice...looks like you're getting all the goodies for this ride.

[Flysocal]

Threw in the towl on my cab. It needed a ton of work. Found a rust free 54 cab on Craigslist. That's right, rust free and no bondo! I really like the 54,55 cabs. One piece window and smooth roof. No left cowl vent. Cleaner setup IMO. I also prefer the dash over the earlier models. Built a cart so I can move it around easier, slips over the frame.


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[oldman3]

Nice looking cab...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Nice score on the cab. Rust free is really hard to find around here.

[Flysocal]

Got a bunch of parts from Scott's hotrods. Front ifs with power rack stock spindles. 12" wilwood rotors with 4 piston calipers. moser 9" rear end. Scott's 4 bar with 11" wilwood rotor/built in parking brake. Lots of good stuff. My first impression is the stuff from Scott's is really nice. Excellent welding. Minor trimming to make the front crossmember fit. I'm mounting it at 20.6" from the front of frame to center of wheel. Burned in the supplied boxing plates then realized I need more trimming to make the steering rack fit. Doesn't look like the frame needs notched but I'm not sure yet. Gonna get back to it tomorrow.


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[Flysocal]

More pics
4314-AA96-2468D64AA2A6_zpsmjgniwyx.jpg.html][/URL]

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[big_moss]

awesome man ill follow along for this one