Whats the easiest way to drop the front end??

[MoreroMike]

I have a 68' short bed and want to lay the frame. I got the rear end all planned out with the step notches and four link, but the front end is where I’m having issues. I don’t have the biggest budget in the world but I do have a welder and a fabricator handy. What are some opinions/ pictures of the easiest way to drop the front? any help would be appreciated.

[leddzepp]

2.5" dropped spindles, then cut 1 coil off each spring. This should give you about a 4.5" total drop unless your springs are already sagging.

Welcome to the board neighbor!

[71swb4x4]

If you want to lay frame I would assume you are running bags. A frame Z and dropped spindles might be the most economical. More drop can be had by pancaking the crossmember.

Edit: this thread has a little info for you.

[MoreroMike]

2.5" dropped spindles, then cut 1 coil off each spring. This should give you about a 4.5" total drop unless your springs are already sagging.

Any preference on the spindles? or is it you get what you pay for kind of deal? Thanks for the welcome!

[tcb-1]

if your handy with a welder and a torch or plasma, you can drop the front hard if you cup the front lower control arms and throw a set of bags with Schrader valves on it. cheap, but probably not laying frame yet. get a set of spindles if you can blow the dough. I have MGaughey 2.5" drop spindles and I'm happy with them. however, there are several other vendors that make quality drop spindles.

laying frame isn't cheap!

[Hottrucks]

you want the short cheap version to lay frame

2.5" drop spindles
cupped stock lower control arms
and a set of bags

that wil lay the X hard ( check my build)
if you want to get it lower follow this for your X memeber
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html

now keep in mind that your going to loose your heater box and hood hindges

[MoreroMike]

If you want to lay frame I would assume you are running bags. A frame Z and dropped spindles might be the most economical. More drop can be had by pancaking the crossmember.

This is the second time I heard about the Zing the frame approach, Is there a certain way to do it. Or does anybody have any pictures of a frame that has the Z in it? I’m completely new to this . . . obviously.

[Sublvr72]

if you want to lay frame then bags and drop spindles

[MoreroMike]

Sooo it sounds like if i use all my stock front end components, and i cup the lower arms for bags and add 2.5" drop spindles i will lay the frame.

if you want to get it lower follow this for your X memeber

Whats lower?

AND does anybody have any good suggestions on how to cup the lower control arms for the airbags?

[Hottrucks]

look at my build ( I think its on page one or two) and if you look under your truck you will see that the X memeber is a bit lower than the frame....I'm not sure your sheet metel will drag ......also in my buid it will give you the # for the off the shelf shock thast works

what is a fact is that my X memeber is about 1 1/2" off the ground with bags and 2 3/4" cups...in the next week or 2 I'm going to do a disc convertion using a set of 2 1/2" drop spindles...do the math???.....what it does do is allow the air bags to get into the middle of there working area and ride lower...Bump stops will be mandiory to eliminate scrub issues

[panhandler62]

If you want to put it in the weeds and still have if ride and drive well you might want to consider talking to Nathan at Porterbuilts. There is nothing preventing you doing all the fabrication yourself, but he has the stuff to drop you into the grass and still have the correct geometry.

I think a complete front end (x.member, arms, rack, bags and sundry parts) will run about $3500 to $4000 by the time your are ready to roll on it if you go that route.

[MoreroMike]

what is a fact is that my X memeber is about 1 1/2" off the ground with bags and 2 3/4" cups...in the next week or 2 I'm going to do a disc convertion using a set of 2 1/2" drop spindles...do the math???.....what it does do is allow the air bags to get into the middle of there working area and ride lower...Bump stops will be mandiory to eliminate scrub issues

Interesting! That sounds like the way i'll go. $4000 is a little out of my budget for this build. I did see a control arm cup set from KP components

http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...&cat=43&page=1

is this like what you guys are using? or is there something better to use or make?

[Hottrucks]

that won't get you down and your gping to throw away 1/2 the parts...you can get piece of carboard and make you top plate.....I wish I had made a copy of my upper plate with a good ppic and a few measurments you coud print it and use it for a template

...Look at my build and you'll see how to build LCA's tah work...just use those masuremnets or you will have scrub issues with the inside of the control arm

[MoreroMike]

Oh ok, I see what you mean by not using half of the parts. On yours, are the cups Just cut/welded in and placed about 2 1/2" down? or is there a flat plate that that gets welded into place first? Thanks for all the help by the way.

[Hottrucks]

you basicly cut out the old spring pocket and replace it with a piece of 8" pipe and a plate the bag now folds up inside it

[MoreroMike]

OH ok! I never done anything with bags before so this is all new to me. NOW! with this front set up would a four link be a good match for the rear?

[Hottrucks]

dude you need to look at my build and decide if you like the stance......if you do than follow my build or others to get the look you want...I have nothing more than a 1" block and bags on trailing arms if you have extra ching and time then do a 4 link...you can def get more drop but your going to have to cut your floor ...mine is against it now