Calling all guys that flare their own brake lines!!

[laynrockers]

Need some help here. How do i know what flare i need? So far i have learned a 37 degree, 45 degree, bubble, double. None of which is helping me figure out what type of flare i need to do in my specific application or any application for that matter.

I am bending my own 1/4 line and wil be starting from the MC all the way to each disc.

If i need to post pics of the fittings or anything let me know. I am a NOOOBY at this, so bare with me and thanks in advance.

[motiveauto]

Double flare. Get a kit from the parts store. Bubble is for newer or metric cars. I did all new lines on my 66 and used the double flare.
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[jdoisher]

Your brake lines are 45 degree inverted flares. Your fittings are going to be 7/16-24. Let me know what else you need to know, I'm doing my brake lines now!!
Jason

[vidman]

37 is used for stainless lines

[markeb01]

Each time you are setting up to create an inverted double flare, make sure to check that you have slipped the fitting on the line FIRST. The most common mistake when learning to flare tubing is realizing after you formed the perfect end, that the fitting was left off.

The second most common problem is forming angles backward. Make a wire form of what you are trying to accomplish before bending the actual tubing (old wire coat hangers work great). Then take your time and make sure the bender is set up correctly so you angle the tubing in the right direction.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by markeb01

..........The most common mistake when learning to flare tubing is realizing after you formed the perfect end, that the fitting was left off.....

Um, I've 'never' done that ....

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Um, I've 'never' done that ....

A collective, "whomp whomp". Brake line fittings, wire heat shrink....dammit!

[El Campo]

Like has been said 45 degree inverted flares are what come from factory. 37 degree single flares are what AN fittings and JIC fittings are. Inverted flares are considered a double flare. Stainless is very hard to flare. The reason why the gentleman above said to use 37 degree single flares is because they are easier to make then a 45 degree double flare. Also less likely to crack if you are using a cheaper flaring tool. I tried flaring stainless with a Rigid flarer and broke the dies on the second fitting. Went and bought a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and it can put 45 degree double flares in stainless up to 1/2 inch effortlessly and perfectly every time. Big bucks though. Bubble fittings are mainly found on either fuel lines or european cars IIRC. Never mix 37 and 45 degree flares. So in a nutshell use 45 degrees double (also called inverted) flares as has been said as they are cheaper, work great and are standard on most everything. If you can't get flares made with your tools let me know as I would rent you my Mastercool if it would help u out. I have all the dies and adapters to make both single and double flares in both 37 and 45 degree lines.
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[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by El Campo

Like has been said 45 degree inverted flares are what come from factory. 37 degree single flares are what AN fittings and JIC fittings are. Inverted flares are considered a double flare. Stainless is very hard to flare. The reason why the gentleman above said to use 37 degree single flares is because they are easier to make then a 45 degree double flare. Also less likely to crack if you are using a cheaper flaring tool. I tried flaring stainless with a Rigid flarer and broke the dies on the second fitting. Went and bought a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and it can put 45 degree double flares in stainless up to 1/2 inch effortlessly and perfectly every time. Big bucks though. Bubble fittings are mainly found on either fuel lines or european cars IIRC. Never mix 37 and 45 degree flares. So in a nutshell use 45 degrees double (also called inverted) flares as has been said as they are cheaper, work great and are standard on most everything. If you can't get flares made with your tools let me know as I would rent you my Mastercool if it would help u out. I have all the dies and adapters to make both single and double flares in both 37 and 45 degree lines.
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I've been using a Matco clamp style flare kit for a while ... and wanted to move up to a MasterCool...

Which model did you get ??

I know they have models that'll do it all, including pushloc too.

Thinking all I need is 37/45 style

[ChiefRocka]

Thinking these two:

71475
UNIVERSAL HYDRAULIC FLARING TOOL SET:
-

-
Then add this:

71098
37˚ FLARING & DOUBLE FLARING ADAPTER SET:
-

-

[El Campo]

One other thing is that 1/4 is pretty big line for discs, is that what is recommended? Factory c 10s had 3/16 to the discs in the front an 1/4 to the drums in the back. Most disc systems suggest using 3/16 that I have came across. Good luck !
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[Wrenchbender Ret]

I buy the lines already flared. Get one the next size larger then you need & cut it & flare it to the correct length. You get at least one factory flare that way. They are not expensive & readily available at all parts stores.

[jocko]

i agree with wrenchbender - I do the same, cuts my chances of a leak in half! But the more flares you do, the more confident you'll be in them. My only tip, in addition to all the great advice above, would be that it is worth the extra effort to "dress" the end of a freshly cut line before you flare it - i.e. lightly sand the outer edge of the fresh cut and also to slightly ream the inner edge (this can be done with a triangle shaped scraper - usually a fold-out part of most line cutoff tools). Then, look at the opening - if you have a fairly uniform tubing wall thickness around the circumference of the cut, go for it and expect success. If, on the other hand, wall thickness varies from really thick on one side to really thin on the other - STILL go for it, but do not be surprised if you develop a split in the end of the line. When the flare is done, make sure you have fairly uniform thickness around the flare visually - lack of this is often the result of forgetting to inspect prior to the flare and also the cause of subsequent leaks.

Bottom line - don't buy exactly the amount of tubing you think you'll need - buy extra...

Also, I don't recommend stainless. Looks nice and can be polished, but not as forgiving on the bender, splits more easily.

Good luck!

[chevy_mike]

A little trick I use for deburring/chamfering the inside of the line is a countersink bit for your drill. I pick these up cheap from Harbor Freight and use my cordless drill and give is a quick hit with the bit. I use a file for the outer edge. Works great and has improved my flairs since doing them a few years ago.

[dougf]

Recently did the entire brake system in my '66. Here's what I did...

Ripped everything out first. I bought Poly Armour lines that were pre-cut, flared (inverted), and had fittings. I went 3/16th all the way around, drums on all four. I read a lot about line size and what people would recommend. It turns out that the general consensus is that pressure is pressure, regardless of line size (to a point), so the difference between 1/4 line and 3/16 line is irrelevant.



A close up on what I used. I had to get a few more to go from 3/8th-24 to 7/16th and vise versa.



Anyway, just thought I would share. Good luck on the bending and flaring, you received some great advice above. I kind of regret not doing my own flares, because I lost the ability to make my lines the exact length I needed, instead I relied on pre-cut lengths that I sometimes wished were a little longer or shorter. Like it was stated above, I would recommend cutting more than you think you need, because once you get down there and bend, things end up being a lot different than what you mocked up or expected you needed. Good luck, I am sure it will turn out great.

[El Campo]

That would be awesome! They make a set that has just the 37 degree single and double flare dies and adapters and I bought that and then added on the 45 degree flaring dies and adapters also. It is a phenomenal tool and I would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone. It makes literally factory perfect flares every single time even if you are sloppy with your cuts. You know how most flaring tools don't make flares that look as "fat" as factory? Not the case here. I had never even heard of Mastercool but bought mine using advice from guys on here and couldn't be happier with it.
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[argonaut]

When I put 4-wheel power disks on my 64 I went stainless all around. I made many of my own stainless lines for brakes, fuel line, transmission cooler, etc. with 45 degree flares. I picked up a craftsman flaring kit from Sears and used it to make all the ends. I never broke tools or cracked any tubes. I did use a cutoff wheel to make the cuts and carefully deburred and chamfered the edges once they were cut off. I also used a little grease for lube on the dies as I made the flared ends.

Like a previous poster said, the hardest part is to not accidentally make a backwards bend and not to forget to put the fitting on before flaring
But also practice a few first. Make sure not to keep th stainless clamped very tightly in the tool, and practice getting a feel for how hard to tighten down the dies to make the flares.

[laynrockers]

Guys, thanks for the feedback here is where is am at.

I watched several videos on youtube (as this is my first time) And i did all of the above

deburred the line, used brake fluid on line and fitting, prepped the lines inside and out. ect ect

I am using the flaring kit from eastwood. (see attached pic)to my knowledge the line is 1/4 in.

My flares are coming out good (BUT) once i release from the clamp the fittings dont slide up to the top. The clamp is squeezing the tubing and misforming it????

ALso i tried using my pliers and bending the line the get the basic shape for over my rear axel and it is fairly difficult. Too the point i am thinking of either trying 3/16 line or going all SS lines.

Has anyone tried buying the full replacment from Jegs?? I know it wont fit perfect for me since i have the dropmember set-up but it mught be worth is to get 90% already bent??

[El Campo]

Stainless is even harder to bend then steel lines from what I remember. There is another kind of line that is a nickel/copper mix I believe and you can bend into pretzel shapes with ease, do not remember the name though. The nice thing about making your own lines is that you can make one single line that goes all the way to the back instead of having to have fittings. Some of the cheaper flaring tools do not grip the tube as well and malform it somewhat. I use the Eastwood pliers that you have pictured and it bends great.