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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 71
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72 Turn Signal Housing Wiring Short Question
OK, so my daughter and her "non-boyfriend" swapped the grille and bumper from the borrowed '70 to the newly acquired '72 parts.
We found that the turn signal had a short, so we removed it from the bumper. The short appears to be at the neck of the wiring boot and metal shank (green in pic). I have searched online and on the forum and can only find how to repair/fix TS wiring harnesses or the TS switch in the steering column. I've tried to twist the metal shank (brown on pic) and the little tab and the little tab (yellow arrow) on the front keeps it from turning. Can anyone tell me how to get the wiring free from the housing? If I bend out the little tab can I twist it and it'll come free? I'd rather buy wiring and not the housing if possible... I've attached the two below pics, with color coding referenced above. Thanks in advance!
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Thx, Lintcollector '72 C10 Fleetside Big Block See my build thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=771552 |
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#2 |
The Older Generation
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 25,487
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Re: 72 Turn Signal Housing Wiring Short Question
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I will have to look at one of mine in the morning to make sure, but I think the socket is crimped into the housing. LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#3 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 71
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Re: 72 Turn Signal Housing Wiring Short Question
Quote:
Mike
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Thx, Lintcollector '72 C10 Fleetside Big Block See my build thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=771552 |
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#4 |
Old member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S.
Posts: 19,936
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You could probably get it a part I'm sure. Rather you get it back together is another story.
I would take the pigtail wrapping off and see if the wire is broken inside it. I would try and fix it are just add a ground wire to the fixture back to the frame of the truck. Nobody would ever see it. Worth a try. The wires inside the harness are all load wires no ground wire, the housing grounds the bulb back to the truck through the metal itself. I would bet you need to clean the metal attachment points good and it may work. Something to try. Take the housing and put a jumper on one of the wires to your + battery then ground the housing to the negative of the battery and see if it works. If so then it's just a bad ground issue where it mounts at. ![]()
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1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 ![]() Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs. |
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#5 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: 72 Turn Signal Housing Wiring Short Question
The bulb holder and wire is swaged into the turn signal lamp assembly, you can buy a used one on the parts forum or pry the bulb holder from the housing and replace the bulb holder with a universal 1157 bulb holder and splice the wiring connector from the old onto the new, it actually works pretty good, the bulb holder should be at any auto parts store,
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#6 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: 72 Turn Signal Housing Wiring Short Question
There are several way to go at this. As usual rust is a concern. Since the current bulb holder is crimped to the housing the ground path for the 12 volts goes through the crimp. If your crimped area is solid and rust free chances are that you have good conductivity. (You can check it with an Ohm meter). If it is good then you can replace the individual conductors in the bulb holder. They can be sourced from a new generic socket repair kit (photo #1) or as individual leads with the soldered button contact installed. I prefer to use as much of the factory parts as possible as they fit the original bulb socket much better than the generic parts.
If the bulb socket is rusted then replacement of the socket is a good idea. Once the old one is uncrimped and removed the rust must be removed to clean metal. Then you can install a new socket and solder it in place of the old one. After soldering you can paint the back as needed and touch up the paint on the inside to prevent further rust. (Just no paint inside the bulb holder) Just using the generic snap in sockets will work but down the road the snap in clips will lose continuity and the light will quit working. Usually a quick twist or wiggle will bring it back on line. To help prevent rust in the socket and on the bulb base I highly recommend using a product called Corrosion Block. I have used it for decades at work on deck lighting installed on tug boats and found it to be a great product. And no they don't pay to say this. Sometimes at bigger boat or yacht shows you can score free samples of it which are large enough to do 6 or more bulbs depending on how liberal you apply it. https://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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