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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 995
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Door latch woes...
My 71 chevy C10 had some major door issues. So, I ordered up a nice
big box of parts (BBOP) and started to rebuild them. I got new locks, pawls, inside and outside handles, door relays, latch, escutcheons, and all new rubber. Everything went together great and most of my door "issues" were solved! Everything but the latch... The new latch was not a GM part but an after market one that was to be "compatible". Once it was installed the new latch did not ratchet correctly on the striker. I tried adjusting the height and angle of the door, but it still would not close correctly. Eventually I ended up lubing up the old one and putting it back in so the door would at least close. But it still takes quite a "slam" to get it to close and does not lock with the key. I have tried looking for a GM latch, but so far have not found one. Found a few used ones, but they look almost as warn as my old one. I did find a bran new GM striker that I ordered on ebay that might help. Should get it next week... Does anyone know where I might be able to find a drivers side GM latch? Or, do you guys know of a few magic hints to help me get mine to work correctly again? thanks! Shawn |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 995
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Alas, I thought I would just "bump" this up one last time to see
if anyone had any little jewels sitting on the shelf. thanks!
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Wakaw, Sask, Canada
Posts: 3,180
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Keep bumping..someone on here has to have a good one
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"You can take the man out of PA, but you can't take PA out of the man" |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Canton North Carolina
Posts: 466
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Shawn try Classic Muscle, they are a GM Dealer in Winston Salem NC. Those latches were still available from GM a couple of years ago, because I bought a set at the dealership where I worked. Hope this helps. Harold Do a search under Classic Muscle on the net for the phone number.
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#5 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,477
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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Latch adjustment is tricky stuff on these trucks, a 1/16 of an inch one way or another and the correct amount of shims behind the striker will usually do it even with a worn latch. The slamming is because the striker is in to far and the not locking with the key is also a striker adjustment. Spend a little time instead of money and watch how the door acts as you close it, if it rises as it closes lower the striker 1/8, if you can lock the door by pushing in on it move the striker out an 1/8, if you have to raise the door by the handle for it to lock lower the striker etc. Most striker plates require 3-4 shims top and bottom but i have run into some that required more at any rate never use more than 1 (3 top 4 bottom etc) extra shim in top or bottom or it wears the tumbler out. GOOD LUCK! i have spent hours to get that gm solid door clunk sound.
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Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times. |
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