64 C10 5.3L/4l60e

[Justin71105]

Anyone who has done an LS/4l60e swap into a 60s C10.

Did the 4L60E look about the same position as mine in the

Mine came with a manual transmission originally.

I already cut out the transmission cross member to put in my dirty dingo cross member but it looks like the emergency brake cross member is the one that really needs to come out....

I would like to keep an emergency brake if possible so I'll have to look into how to replace the crossmember or move it back and shorten the cables going to the drums and lengthen the one going to the brake handle.

Guessing since the trans is sitting right on top of the E brake cdossmember thats where my new one needs to go.

[Justin71105]

I think I may have found one issue I have my motor mounts mounted in the frame holes closest to the cab and I think they need to be in the forward holes and see where it sits.

Will try that tomorrow before I remove cross member.

[Captainfab]

The best solution to the e-brake crossmember interference is to convert to the '66-'72 cables. That eliminates that crossmember. Some people have moved the e-brake ceossmember to under the frame.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The best solution to the e-brake crossmember interference is to convert to the '66-'72 cables. That eliminates that crossmember. Some people have moved the e-brake ceossmember to under the frame.

Was hoping to keep cross member, just bought new cables for the rear. Will see about flipping it to under the frame and see what clearance I have. Will do some research and see if my new cables can be used on the newer style setup and maybe price out all new as well if its a headache doing flipped member

[Justin71105]

Guess if I have to swap everything over I am looking at $175ish with everything from lmc. Assuming I can continue i6sing stock handle for the 64.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Guess if I have to swap everything over I am looking at $175ish with everything from lmc. Assuming I can continue i6sing stock handle for the 64.

Handles should be the same through '68. I believe '69 is when the foot pedal came into play.

[joesscamaro]

I see you kept the engine in the rear mount holes on the frame. What adapter plates are you using?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

I see you kept the engine in the rear mount holes on the frame. What adapter plates are you using?

ICT branded ones, using rear holes but with engine in most fwd position on adapters. Sits it perfectly for the DD trans crossmember to bolt in stock e brack crossmember spot and tailhoising to sit right in place.

[Justin71105]

Got the fuel lines ran just need to pull a little more slack up the firewall. Got the trim in for where I cut the inner fender for the power steering and it fits very well.

[Justin71105]

Getting ready to put the order in to have my drive shaft built and have been looking at drive line angles before I even have it. It will be a one piece driveshaft, my truck did not come with a drive shaft when I bought it.

Trans is currently 4.3 degrees down "slopes downward from front to back" when measuring off of trans seal or crank pulley.

Pinion also slope "down" 1.8 degrees, slopes "down from front of truck to rear.

Rom eye balling it the driveshaft will also slop "down" fromt to rear, an unknown amount until I get one.

Would a 6 degree shim in rear to get the pinion to slope up "front to rear" 4.2 degrees be the way to get these opposite and "almost" equal. Running 4.5" drop in front and 5" drop with coils in rear.

Very confusing with the up/down....to me the trans visually is down from front of engine to trans tail. Looking at pinion I "think" up b/c the pinion faces up towards front of engine.

Using the drive line calculator on spicers website and using 4.3 down for trans and 4.2 up for pinion (shims) I cannot get operating angles within the 3 degrees with any driveshaft angle.

However having all the angles slope down on their calc I get my needed angles with a 0-5 degree drive shaft angle. Making very little sense even after looking at the forum posts, watching the video explaining it in posts ect.

[mongocanfly]

I'm assuming your on trailing arm rear suspension....so the lower you go the more the pinion will rotate down..can you shim the trans angle to 3deg and run a 4or5deg wedge in the rear?...without the driveshaft its gonna be difficult to figure your working angles..
In a perfect world you want the crank centerline to be parallel to the pinion centerline...
But sometimes, it seems this just doesnt work for some people's rigs when really low..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I'm assuming your on trailing arm rear suspension....so the lower you go the more the pinion will rotate down..can you shim the trans angle to 3deg and run a 4or5deg wedge in the rear?...without the driveshaft its gonna be difficult to figure your working angles..
In a perfect world you want the crank centerline to be parallel to the pinion centerline...
But sometimes, it seems this just doesnt work for some people's rigs when really low..

True.... But remember, one can always utilize adjustable front Truck-Arm brackets or flip the stock units to help get better angles on lowered trucks.

[Justin71105]

Not get 3 degrees out of trans without cutting trans tunel out and reworking. May be able to get 4 degrees, have half an inch maybe a little more between trans and tunnel right now.

Do not mind flipping the trailing arm brackets to help with pinion angle or running shims. But from the spicer calc running a 4 degree down trans - "X" degree down driveshaft - "X" degree up pinion I cannot get working angles where they need to be no matter what driveshaft angle is.

However with all 3 angles sloping "down" front to rear I get the needed operating angles with a good range of driveshaft angles.

I know I dont yet have a number for driveshaft angle but using any number with pinion sloping up gives me an operating angle wayyy over 3 degrees.

[mongocanfly]

Thanks Scoti...I dont fool much with trailing arms and havnt seen those brackets...those are nice..

Justin...dont quote me here and Scoti maybe can clear the air..
I watched the Spicer video about 3 times..if I understand what hes saying, when he says diff down, hes talking about the angle from front to rear as viewed from the side..,the centerline of the pinion shaft,, so on their calc you would want 4deg down, which means the diff nose needs to be up 4.2degs..
At 2:40 he talks about angle up and down being viewed from the side... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TUFzehQBDPI
So when I say pinion up I'm referring to the nose of the pinion pointing up, which in turn is the way Spicer describes it as being down...some confusion there for sure..

[Justin71105]

This is what mine would look like from side with a deiveshaft. but that pretty much completely contradicts what I read online that your front and rear should be opposite angles of one another
Lol.

I've probably looked through two or 300 pages of driveline posts and watched videos on it I still dont understand it. I'm going to ask the driveline shop Monday when I order my driveshaft how it should be.

[mongocanfly]

So if all your angles are down your working angles will be 2,2..as you showed above...so either the brackets Scoti showed or wedges should work..
if it were mine ,I would cut the floor, do a tunnel, and set the trans and diff angle at 3 deg..(personal choice)...that would get the working angle down to around 1deg..
I understand you not wanting to do a tunnel though, and what you have should work

[mongocanfly]

This is what yours should look like
You want the centerline of the trans to be parallel to the centerline of the diff

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

This is what yours should look like
You want the centerline of the trans to be parallel to the centerline of the diff

Yeah that's what's so confusing the pinion is facing up in that picture but it's considered down. Mine is the same as your illustraion but with 1.8° at pinion.

If thats the case I can use 2° shims in rear pivoting pinuon further backward for 3.8° and raise trans to 4°

Then the operating angles will all depend on driveshaft but I will be within 1° for yoke/pinion and should also be for operating angles as well, just hope they are less than 3°. Which it should be as long as driveshaft is between 2-6°

[bigmoe]

That's weird. I've never heard pinion angle described by which way the BACK of the rear end points. Trans points down, front of rear end points up. Both should be at or near the same degrees. The way Mongo describes it is the way I always think with two imaginary lines running parallel to each other. These angles are best measured with the wheels on the ground and all the weight on the vehicle.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

That's weird. I've never heard pinion angle described by which way the BACK of the rear end points. Trans points down, front of rear end points up. Both should be at or near the same degrees. The way Mongo describes it is the way I always think with two imaginary lines running parallel to each other. These angles are best measured with the wheels on the ground and all the weight on the vehicle.

Ehat I always thought tail of trans down towards the ground and pinuon up towards the sky....then started reading about it and was more confused than ever lol.

Many websites say the angles need to be the same value +/- 0.5 degrees while also being opposite....one - and one +. Thays where my brain started wandering.

[mongocanfly]

Yeah..the way he describes the angle up/down on the video is confusing compared to how we normally describe the angles.....
But I always try to set the trans and pinions at the same numerical number but opposite angles (+..-)
And like stated this needs done with all the weight on the suspension ..
A 2deg shim will get you close..and these angles change some with suspension movement as you drive anyway
Still theres some folks here that set theirs up perfect, just like show on paper, but the results dont work for them..so it's hard to analyze how some setups are when you cant lay eyes on it

[LS short box]

On my 68 C10 LS 4L60E SWB my engine is at 3.5 degrees. 6" rear drop. I didn't check the angle of the rear end. Had the drive shaft made and I have zero vibrations. I would shim the trans so you have an 1/8" between it and the tunnel. The other thing to watch out for is clearance between the the drive shaft and the trailing arm cross member. If you could some how lower the engine via the engine mounts that would help a lot.

[Justin71105]

Got my drive shaft in, transmission raised as much as I can and shims in rear end.

I come out with 3.9 in rear 3.9 on engine/trans but only .85 on the driveshaft. Guess I will have to cut the trans tunnel and either try raising trans even more. Or find a way to raise motor itself on the mounts or frame brackets.

Thinking some poly bushings may be stiffer than the rubber and raise it some but maybe not enough to get me downward angle on the drive shaft.

[Justin71105]

Just going to leave as is and see what it does when it start driving.

If I have vibrations or my u joints don't last once I start driving it, I will cut the tunnel and raise it an inch or two to be able to raise trans to 3 degrees and swap out my shims for 1 degree and end up with 2.8 - 3 and drive shaft angle will probably move slightly but will get me closer to 2 degree operating angles.

From looking at it I just need to cut a 4" wide section from tunnel so if I get rowdy and motivated I might cut trans tunnel on a slow weekend or something as well and just see what trans angle I can get.

[SCOTI]

I would try to set the pinion so it's aiming the driveshaft as straight as possible toward the trans output but not perfectly straight. Drive it & see how it works. Make changes based off of that input.

Doing the calcs & initial set-up is good but don't get stuck on it. As things are added/altered on the truck, the numbers will change/vary anyway.
Looks like as I was editing my post you posted as well LOL....