47-55.1 Hooker cast LS headers vs stock

[mobileortho]

Who's using cast or stock iron manifolds for their LS Swaps? Been looking into the exhaust for my 6.0 and I kinda like the Hooker Blackheart LS manifold. But as I was comparing it to the stock replacements made by Dorman, if you remove the heat shield they are exactly identical. I see the Hookers have 2 bolts for the pipe mounting flange and the Dorman's have three. They are also quite a bit more expensive.

[mr48chev]

Can't knock the looks, those Hookers are nice looking units that should flow reasonably well. Over double the price of factory style LS manifolds could be an issue though.
I see that all Hooker cast headers are not the same and top to bottom there is about a 200 or more price difference between where you buy them.

The Doormans obviously bolt to stock pipes in a factory setup. They aren't as pretty but are more affordable.

Another option might be this set from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...+5ba29eacb7da9

With the Header style manifolds you are going to have to put a bung (s) in the pipes for the oxygen sensor though. Not difficult but an added step. I wouldn't think that you would go back to the dark ages with a 6.0 and be foolish enough to put a carb on it negating half of what makes a 6.0 work in the first place.

The Summit offering.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I wouldn't think that you would go back to the dark ages with a 6.0 and be foolish enough to put a carb on it negating half of what makes a 6.0 work in the first place.

No carb although it came with a Holley Brawler. I'm leaning towards the Holley Sniper. I bought the engine off someone who had it built them decided to go with a stroker. It's rated at 500hp. I like the multiport efi's but trying to keep it simple. Would love a set of full length headers but no one seems to know of ones that fit the AD'd.

[mr48chev]

I can see the sniper even though that setup probably loses 50 or more hp from multi-port

I've been around a couple of local guys who bought LS engines and then took the multiport fi off because they didn't want any of that FI stuff and stuck a carb on the engine and then cried because the performance and gas mileage they expected with the LS didn't happen. One even ended up selling his rig to someone who in end put a factory FI and computer back on the engine and got it back to where it should be.

[G&R's57GMC]

Warning the following message is stating the bleeding obvious :

If one has a factory carbureted engine , then installed a throttle body E.F.I. it would make an improvement in milage , performance , emissions , cold starting and drivability .

But if one has a factory multi-port E.F.I. and then removed it for a Throttle Body E.F.I. one would loose performance and milage .
Now if one were to go to a carburetor one would be loosing all the attributes of E.F.I.

Why the hell would one want to do that ?
For simplicity , poor performance , bad milage , cold start fun and not so hot drivability ?
Or to cheep to buy the F.I. pump lines and tank ?

The preceding statement brought to you by : The late 20th Century

[youngrodder]

I'm running the Hooker manifolds. I bought the cast version and had them thermal epoxy coated. They work and look great. Plus with a 3 bolt flange on the Dorman, it might interfere with the frame rail more. I had to clearance my passenger side rail slightly. I'm using a 5.7l LS1 on my Suburban and I wanted to do away with the plastic stock intake to make it look more period correct. I used a Holley EFI intake and I used the stock throttle body with an adapter to make it look/function like a carb. I also used a Throttle cable (no drive by wire).

I'm happy with my set up in terms of looks and performance.

Marc

[G&R's57GMC]

Nice

[Hcb3200]

I run a truck 6.0 motor with Stock cast Camaro manifolds.
The stock truck manifolds have way to much meat no room with with the frame rails, steering box etc.

I run the passenger side on the driver side
and the passenger side on the right.


The passenger on the driver side solves any interference with the steering box.
i could run the driver on the passenger side for a even look but i like the way it goes.

Went to the hot rod shop and asked for the ones they take of crate motors. cost me two cases of water. one he asked for and I tipped 100%

[Dan in Pasadena]

I’ve posted this a number of times but I’m using stock Corvette Z06 exhaust manifolds in my mildly cammed LQ4. They flow well up to 500hp and I doubt I’m making 400 - absolutely PLENTY for my use.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mobileortho]

Thanks for the input. Going to go with the Hookers or the Summit version.

[Rickysnickers]

I'm always amazed at how you all are able to hide all the wiring. Very clean!

[mr48chev]

Saw this add on FB a minute ago and thought of you. https://www.facebook.com/commerce/li...are_attachment

That might be worth snooping into at his asking price.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Saw this add on FB a minute ago and thought of you. https://www.facebook.com/commerce/li...are_attachment

That might be worth snooping into at his asking price.

Since there’s a break in period on ceramic headers, I bought these too. Got them for a great price, $180 shipped. I’ll run them until I get the engine dialed in.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Since there’s a break in period on ceramic headers, I bought these too. Got them for a great price, $180 shipped. I’ll run them until I get the engine dialed in.

Man, this was a better deal than I thought! Didn’t realize the down pipes were included! They’re selling for $160+ by themselves!

[mobileortho]

Trying the block huggers.

[mr48chev]

I'd say that you got the bargain of the week on those and if you switch away from them you won't lose any money on them. The Pulled them off and put a ceramic coated set on is about the most honest sales pitch you could come up with.

[dsraven]

would the block hugger headers interfere with the cross member? rear exit may be better? install engine to check clearances?
one diff between the dorman and hooker is that the dorman has a mounting flange that connects all the outlets where the hooker has a front and rear flange . some of the old manifolds from small blocks had problems with that sort of set up and would crack between the front and rear halves. hooker prolly overbuilt for that though.
ls engines have a habit of breaking off manifold bolts. maybe use studs? I recommend using new fasteners with antisize, however you go, and torque to spec.
not gonna get into the carbed/injected chat except to say I will likely not have another carbed vehicle.

[mobileortho]

I have block huggers on the 350 in it now, they didn’t interfere, don’t think these would. Youngrodder commented on the third mounting flange on the stock and Dorman manifolds needed to notch the frame for some extra clearance. I suspect that’s why the Hookers used only two. Will definitely be using som anti seize.
As far as carbed vs efi goes, a carb is DEFINITELY less expensive! This is adding up quickly!

[mr48chev]

Why would one not use the EFI that came with the LS that is a high percentage of the performance and reason you buy an LS in the first place?

To me pulling the factory fi off an SL makes about as much sense as taking the 50 inch flat screen out of your living room and replacing it with a 26 inch tube type 70's TV in a wood cabinet because that is what your grandmother had when you were a kid. A guy may as well just stick with a mid 70's 350 and not spend the extra $$$$$$$ for the LS.

[mobileortho]

I got hooked on efi with the TPI on the old motor. This was a crate engine that was set up for a carb when I bought it. It had a Holley Brawler 780, Edelbrock intake & MSD ignition controller all still in the boxes. I sold it all in favor of the Fitech Ultimate EFI setup. Different strokes for different folks.

[dsraven]

I think, for a lot of members, they will want to stick with what they know. also, the old truck or car is a weekend driver and done on leisure time so fiddling with the temperamental carb and distributor set up isn't a big deal plus it may take them back to their youth when they drove a carbed vehicle and dealt with that stuff. it gives them something to tinker with instead of going to the mall with the wife, haha. there is also something to be said for the easiness, speed and economy of the initial install and how that looks under the hood compared to fuel injection wiring and sensors etc, however well hidden. some too are not going to want to deal with the electronics side of things and also want something they can fix themselves without a tow and diagnose bill attached. to each their own. I have had both over the years and will be on the fuel injection side of things. thats just me. I have said this before, build it like you want it, not how you are guilted into by somebody else. just build it safe for yourself and others riding with you or driving on the same road. if you aren't sure what you are doing, just ask the questions and sift through the answers and suggestions that come back before you make up your mind what to do next.

[dsraven]

here is a pic of a task force frame, fully boxed, MII front end, truck LS engine with camaro oil pan, camaro exhaust maniflods, camaro clamshell motor mounts with home made frame connecting brackets all bolted up to a 4L60E trans. about the same depth as the trans bellhousing. you can see the a/c is down low on the passenger side. mounted so oil pan is approx same height as the MII cross member so nothing hangs down too far. exhaust would be an easy hook up from there.

[dsraven]

I have used stock manifolds from a early 2000's camaro, in the past, as they are narrower than the truck manifolds that come with a lot of donor engines since the truck engines are easier t come by as far as donors go. camaro oil pan kit as well. the manifolds fit between the boxed frame rails pretty well on the task force trucks, not sure of the AD trucks. they are less pretty than those pictured above though.
for info on the LS engines google bellavista tech articles. lots of good info there

[dsraven]

sorry, got off topic there in post 21. apologies.

[mr48chev]

There's a lot more room between the rails of a TF than an AD in that area. Then you go back to tight quarters on the 60 though 87 frames.

When I put the Cad 500 in my 71 it was a fight with the passenger side exhaust manifold. I ended up heating and bending the top of the frame rail down for clearance and if I did some finish work on it you would think that it was designed that way.