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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
I know that a set of 4 link bars will make one hook-up under power. The trailing arms have been used in Nascar and truck for years. Can anyone help me with making the arms work or just save time and use what I know that will work and I know how to do the 4 link.
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OLDIRONRACING |
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#2 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Adjustable shocks will help if you are street driving and racing. That way you can soften the compression of the rears and the jounce of the fronts for weight transfer when racing, then switch it back to be drivable on the street.
Last edited by LONGHAIR; 01-06-2008 at 05:31 AM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Jose
Posts: 847
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
That really depends on what you are trying to accomplish, but I'd go the 4 link route for most aplications.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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Come on guys I need help with these. What is some of the things ya'll have tried. Show me or tell me ..... Need the input........ Do I use the old trailing arms or build new ones? If I need to build new ones show me some of the ones ya;ll have built or give ideas.......
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OLDIRONRACING Last edited by Oldironracing; 01-09-2008 at 04:59 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mesa,Az
Posts: 3,981
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Oldiron-
My recommendation on which way to go would depend on what your trying to accomplish. Are you looking for a comfortable ride; trying to putt gobbs of power to the pavement; trying to get it as low as possible; wanting something that'll take corners well????? Let us know what you want it to do and we can better help you!
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www.PorterbuiltFabrication.com Phone: 480-297-2621 E-mail: sales@pbfab.com Find us on FaceBook under Porterbuilt Fabrication Specializing in Chassis and Suspension Components for your Classic Chevrolet Truck. We offer components from the following manufacturers: Porterbuilt Accuair Ridetech (Air Ride Technologies) Air Lift Wilwood Intro Unisteer ECE Gotta Show Air Lift Borgeson CPP Supporting this forum since 2003! |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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I wont it to take lots of power to out run the (buddy's 68 Chevy c/10 502 blower motor) and ride nice for that Saturday night cruse on the river market. Don't have a problem building a 4 link set up if thats the way to go. Just won't to do it right the first time.
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OLDIRONRACING Last edited by Oldironracing; 01-09-2008 at 05:58 PM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,841
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
There are a few guys on this site using the stock style rear suspension going real fast. By that I mean 9's and 10's. I'm on stock style rear suspension and recently clicked off a 12.33 @ 110 on the motor with a 1.87 60' dead hooked. I'm making some changes, shooting for 11.9x on the motor. I think with the bigger verter going in it might help get the 60' to high 1.6's to low 1.7's.
I'm running Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables all the way around. The front spring I swapped out for a HAL 14" 350lb spring. It stores a lot more energy than the lowering springs I had. The rear spring is a classic performance 2" lowering spring. I'm also switching the rear tire from a 275/50/15 BFG drag radial to a 315/60/15 in hopes to hook it on the street a little better. I'll take that combo to the track with the bottle open before making a gear change. Last edited by Super73; 01-09-2008 at 10:08 PM. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
To get trailing arm trucks to plant, you can: play w/spring rates, adjust the pinion angle, use the widest possible tires, swap in urethane bushings in the front trailing arm mounts, use front springs that quickly release stored energy (think Moroso 'trick' front springs), use drag/launch oriented shocks & shift weight from the nose to the rear bed area and put the truck on a diet.
The key when trying to launch big power is tuning for traction. Since most of these items will also apply when swapping in a 4-link, why not start w/these things & see how well the truck arms work. An old buddy had a 427ci BBC w/a T400 & plate system in a 66 short fleet truck & achieved 1.6X 60's. Not too shabby for what it was..... Super73, list your set-up (CID, heads, cam, intake, exhaust, trans type, gear ratio, power adder if any, tire/wheel sizes & compound, truck weight, list weight reductions if any, & any tuning performed.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 01-10-2008 at 07:57 AM. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,841
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
There is a new section on the board that is hidden under engin called Racing/Dyno Section. It's intended for the racers on the board to discuss set ups, what works for them / doesn't ect. You can find my whole set up there.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=60 In short though it's a LS1 powered 63 pick up that weighs 3,840 with me in it and makes 430rwhp on the motor. I'm sure some of the faster guys will start chiming in soon.. |
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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OK , I'm going to use the trailing arms with coil overs. I won't to make new trailing arms. What are the rest of you guys using to do these with? If you have any pictures or details you can share that would be great.
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OLDIRONRACING |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Why the need for new arms? Or is it just a want?
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,841
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
I'm using the factory arms with factory bushings right now. The problem I see with using a square tube [] and poly bushing is they won't allow twist like the current design ][ If twist is not allowed in the arms and/or bushing then your going to run in to a suspension bind issue.
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
OK,OK, Its just a want. But the tube ones look cool. No need I guess. What bushing is the best to use? What do I need to look for on the old trailing arms to see if there usable? What coil over and spring rat should I use?
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OLDIRONRACING Last edited by Oldironracing; 01-13-2008 at 04:00 AM. |
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#15 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Quote:
As far as the arms themselves, check for signs of rot around the bolt holes & down the seam of the arm. If it looks like theres a gap between each of the arm 'halves' @ any point in their length, get different ones. To beef things up w/o adding extra bulk, I run 2" weld beads approx every 10~12" down the center of the arms (top & bottom) starting just an inch or so from the front bushing sleeve. I also weld up the very rear of the arm from top to bottom.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 01-13-2008 at 07:05 AM. |
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#16 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huntingburg IN
Posts: 620
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
yup..... I would stick with the trailing arms and I would also put it on air..... it will give you much more tune-ability for both drag and street. Depending on how much power you are putting down you may want o consider going to a tubular arm or boxing yours.
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 01-13-2008 at 11:14 AM. |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Arkansas
Posts: 250
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
I have seen some on hear that is made out of tubing. Cant find them again to see what there making them out of. I think I'm going to use coil overs that are adjustably. I have some coil over springs left over from running the race car that I can use. Just don,t know what rate to start with (350lb or 375lb)??
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OLDIRONRACING |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Re: Trailing Arms vs 4 Link
Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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