Issues removing the door latch assembly

[gerfunken]

How the #@$% do you get the door latch mechanism out of the door? I've been using an impact screwdriver (Ex. 1) with a BFH (Ex. 2). The outside screws and inside assembly (Ex. 3) have been sprayed with WD-40 (Ex. 4) multiple times over the last two weeks, and the only thing I've accomplished is that I've started deforming the outside of the door.... any hints?

Ex.1


Ex. 2


Ex. 3


Ex. 4

[29od1]

I understand your pain! What I've done in the past is get a 5/16" x 2" bolt and tack weld the threaded end onto the screw and then use a 1/2" wrench to turn it out.

It ruins the screw, but at least it gets it out. It seems that sometimes just the heat from the weld breaks the screw loose.

[Andy4639]

If you are going to replace them just drill them out and go buy new screws for the new ones.
If your planning on using the old lock mechanism then you will need to be carefull.

I didn't have any trouble getting mine out so I'm not going to be much use.

[PAWS 72]

I used AIROKROIL on mine. Its the best that I have found yet.

[56HOTRODDER]

Old cars without Kroil is unbearable. Hard to get out side the south east

[Sammy]

The very best thing for screw removal if you can find one is a "OLD MAN SCREW REMOVAL TOOL". Used in the aviation industry for removal of cross tip screws. It has a leverage using a 3/4 in wrench for a base n fits in a rivet or muffler gun using it to bang as you remove the screws. Used it working on aircraft removing 300 or 400 screws in panels. I can look for a pic on the net. They are reasonably priced for stubborn screws. All you do is put the proper bit on end. They work like a champ.

[Sammy]

http://www.browntool.com/Default.asp...a&ProductID=97

several other company's offer these and have seen them cheaper else where.

[gerfunken]

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I'll keep you posted....

[sanford&daughter]

I just has the same issue when I cut out a repair panel for sammy with the window channel out you can use a micro torch or maybe even some map gas and heat the nuts up on the back side of the latch the screws will come right out

[PanelDeland]

Two Ideas.First step outside the garage and throw the Water Dispersant # 40 as far as you can.Then get some penetrating oil.

Take a drill and drill the heads of the bolts/screws off.Use a drill bit just big enough to be the diameter of the bolt.When you have the assembly out where you can work on it,there should be enough bolt sticking thru to get hold of with a pair of vice grips.A little heat from a torch(even Mapp gas will help.

[gerfunken]

Thank you all for the great advise. I started with PanelDeland's second idea as a starting point since I didn't want to run out to the store for any penetrating oil (aside from the WD-40), and I was out of small propane bottles as sanford&daughter had suggested. There were some other good ideas in there as well, but I was going to just start with the tools and such that I had on hand.

Following the advise, I had started to tap out the screws. Well, I broke two 3/16" bits and ended up getting frustrated. But a pictorial version of my steps are as follows:

Step 1, swear at the door latch.



Step 2, remember that a friend bought you bolt/screw extractor set (that you put in the back of the tool box because you didn't really think that they'd work.)



Step 3, select a shiny, never been used 5 year old tool that hasn't ever been out of the case but looks like it'll slip down into the phillips screw recess with a partially wallowed out 3/16" hole.



Step 4, find the big-arsed crescent wrench and a pair if vise-grips and twist.



Step 5, place door latch assembly gently on table so as not to find yourself spending $50 to order a replacement.



Step 6, offer the old door a humble apology.

Step 7, have a beer, because I actually accomplished something today.

Thanks everyone for their advise, I appreciate it.

[RustyBucket]

I read this on another site awhile back.. might be factual, might be BS. I have pretty good results with PB Blaster & heat


Penetrating Oils


Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of y.ou might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

[passthebuck]

Mine were tight as hell too. I just heated them hot with a normal propane torch & they came out easy...