Bucketlist Blazer -Restomod build 6.6liter L8T

[NDM]

Well, I started my project. I bought my 72 K5 about a year and a half ago with plans to do a 2wd swap. I wanted to have an autocross capable rig. Well as you know, a 2wd Blazer is cost prohibitive so I got the white 4wd at a great price in great condition.

I am a huge car stereo guy from way back so I immediately did my audio build and enjoyed working on it until I got a time suck new job. I was able to enjoy the Blazer every now and then but I worked too much. Fast forward....I got laid off a few weeks ago due to a 500 person downsizing (Terrible company earnings report).

So I did what any right minded dude would do. I sold off a bunch of cult classic audio gear to fund my "winter layoff project". Two days ago I bought a 6.6 liter L8T motor and 2wd 6l90E liftout for a steal! I got it for $3k less than market value. The combo has only 25,000 miles on it.

Pausing the post because I am at the gym in the hottub......To Be Continued

[NDM]

[NDM]

[NDM]

So the plan is to take the front crossmember from a 84 C20, Convert it to 6 lug to be able t use my Factory rally wheels and do a stock height or lifted 2wd setup. Mostly to get rid of all the leaky 4wd stuff but basically it will stay that way until the day when I decide to drop it down low.

I may still decide to keep 4wd but for now I am just simply annoyed at all the leaks that are involved in the NP205. My beautiful paver driveway that I laid by myself now has oil drips and that really annoys me . I spent an entire summer working on the 20 pallets of pavers.

2wd is just simpler too. The ride should be much better and the parts are sooooo much cheaper too. I simply cannot afford to do a 4wd build on a vehicle that will never be used for much offroad at all. The most offroad that I will ever do is visit my parents property in the AZ desert.

So for now.....Pre-runner 2wd style it is.

I know that the 6l90e will make it soooooo much better with the 401hp and 464 torque. I have a Gen4 6.0 L96 and a 6l90E in my 76 Buick Regal and that thing absolutely rips! It is a very angry car yet can settle down when I want it to be calm. It has QA1 double adjustable coilovers and is so much fun to drive. It is a 17 foot sleeper for sure.

The Blazer will get the same treatment. I am going for something like my old Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT. Low, wicked handling and lots of power.

Well this is the beginning. I will update as I move along.

[1970cstblazer]

That shall be a beast..

[NDM]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

That shall be a beast..

I hope so!
I already ordered the badges.

[1970cstblazer]

The 6.6 L8T displaces 403 CI. Sure has a lot more going for it than the 1977-79 403 Oldsmobile V8.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

The 6.6 L8T displaces 403 CI. Sure has a lot more going for it than the 1977-79 403 Oldsmobile V8.

Especially after I do an LT5 cam and ported injection conversion. Should be about 550 horsepower.

[NDM]

I have been dying of indecision with this thing. First off, I keep going back to keeping it as a 4wd but I want to keep the 6 speed tranny. The issue is that I have a perfectly good 2wd 6l90e with 25k miles. I do not want to cut the shaft. Also, I would have to buy the expensive Advance adapter for the 4wd and buy dual driveshafts. That all adds up. I would be then left with a barely used 4wd system that cost alot and still does not solve my ride quality concerns.

Now the frustrating part. I have read a bazillion threads on how to convert to 2wd. That part is fairly simple. The difficult part is that my 2wd crossmember is from a 84 c20. for the life of me I cannot figure out exactly what is needed to run factory height springs but retain my 6 lug wheels. It is very important for me to retain my 6 lug rally wheels. I do not want to run 8 lug or 5 lug wheels. When I am ready to upsize the wheels, I want to keep 6 lug. I just do not understand why it is so difficult to have the exact 8 lug rotors made but with 6 lugs.

I am going to try to track down the ece style 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton spindle if it is still made and run 6 lug 1/2 ton rotors. I have the equipment so I might as well use it. I just wish that there was a simple conversion rotor from 8 to 6 lug. Things like this frustrate a simpleton like me. A simple 8 lug rotor blank could be machined to 6 lugs instead of having to change rotors, calipers pads, etc.

[NDM]

I think for the moment I may just run the holley terminator x max with the 6.6 and the factory th350. That way I will have the new motor and still will be 4x4. When i am ready, I can decide on which way to go either 2wd/6 speed or 4x4/6 speed.

[raggedjim]

I'm pretty sure you can use the rotors and spindles from your 72 on the 84 a-arms as long as you change the 84 balljoints to 72 balljoints. You may also have to change the tierod ends but not sure about that.

Good luck, Rg

[QUOTE=NDM;9270913Now the frustrating part. I have read a bazillion threads on how to convert to 2wd. That part is fairly simple. The difficult part is that my 2wd crossmember is from a 84 c20. for the life of me I cannot figure out exactly what is needed to run factory height springs but retain my 6 lug wheels. It is very important for me to retain my 6 lug rally wheels. I do not want to run 8 lug or 5 lug wheels. When I am ready to upsize the wheels, I want to keep 6 lug. I just do not understand why it is so difficult to have the exact 8 lug rotors made but with 6 lugs.

I am going to try to track down the ece style 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton spindle if it is still made and run 6 lug 1/2 ton rotors. I have the equipment so I might as well use it. I just wish that there was a simple conversion rotor from 8 to 6 lug. Things like this frustrate a simpleton like me. A simple 8 lug rotor blank could be machined to 6 lugs instead of having to change rotors, calipers pads, etc.[/QUOTE]

[NDM]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

I'm pretty sure you can use the rotors and spindles from your 72 on the 84 a-arms as long as you change the 84 balljoints to 72 balljoints. You may also have to change the tierod ends but not sure about that.

Good luck, Rg

My 72 is 4wd so I cannot use them.

I wish I had access to someone with a 2wd to test this theory.
If it was not for the fact that I am currently laid off, I would have gone and purchased a bunch of parts to get this figured out.

[lolife99]

You would have been better off with a c10 crossmember assembly because you would have all the correct steering linkage.
All you needed then was aftermarket 6-lug rotors.

Now you need to change the lower control arms (to the c10 version) and figure out how to get a c10 outer tie rod to fit a c10 spindle. Besides changing to c10 balljoints.
The crossmember itself will still work.

I own a set of the ECE ( 3/4-ton to 1/2-ton) conversion spindles you are talking about but don’t currently want to sell them. I’ll keep you in mind if I do.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by lolife99

You would have been better off with a c10 crossmember assembly because you would have all the correct steering linkage.
All you needed then was aftermarket 6-lug rotors.

Now you need to change the lower control arms (to the c10 version) and figure out how to get a c10 outer tie rod to fit a c10 spindle. Besides changing to c10 balljoints.
The crossmember itself will still work.

I own a set of the ECE ( 3/4-ton to 1/2-ton) conversion spindles you are talking about but don’t currently want to sell them. I’ll keep you in mind if I do.

Can you get me any identifying marks or part numbers on those spindles? So technically are you saying that it would in fact work if I had those spindles that you have? It seems like with what I already have that these spindles are the exact thing that I need. I could then just change brake components for new stuff and be done.

The issue with changing to all c10 components arms etc is that I might as well sell some of my crap and save up for an entire QA1 setup or something.

I would not mind changing the lower and upper control arms really. I just really want to just get it all figured out so that I can move forward. I just do not have the open budget or time to be able to make mistakes on parts. The shipping delays would seemingly put me into next summer.

Sucks because I have time now but not the big budget. As soon as I find my next position, I will have the budget and no time! FML!!

[notsolo]

The front axle in your photo appears to be 71-72 the control arms on later trucks had different bushings, and a big flat washer on the end, instead of the hex nut. Maybe someone an verify C 20 were different. I also have some measurements in my build thread that might help.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by notsolo

The front axle in your photo appears to be 71-72 the control arms on later trucks had different bushings, and a big flat washer on the end, instead of the hex nut. Maybe someone an verify C 20 were different. I also have some measurements in my build thread that might help.

I believe only the 1/2-ton 73-87 trucks got rubber bushings.
I think the 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks still got the steel bushings like the 63-72 trucks.
You can tell it’s a 73-87 front assemble because the rubber brake line bolts to the upper a-arm.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by notsolo

The front axle in your photo appears to be 71-72 the control arms on later trucks had different bushings, and a big flat washer on the end, instead of the hex nut. Maybe someone an verify C 20 were different. I also have some measurements in my build thread that might help.

The guy that I bought this front clip from is very knowledgeable and was pretty sure that it came from an 84 C20.

I will hit up your build thread for sure.

[lolife99]

Here’s the part number for those spindles.
They are really nothing special.
They are standard c10 2.5” drop spindles with the balljoint and tie rod holes that fit the c20 trucks.

Here’s an idea,… buy new stock or drop 73-87 HD spindles (the ones for 1.25” rotors) and have the holes reamed for your c20 size balljoints and tie rods.
Same thing as what I have.
Finding a set of stock height c10 spindles should be easy.
Just make sure they are for the 1.25” rotors, because the aftermarket 6-lug rotors are 1.25” also.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Here’s the part number for those spindles.
They are really nothing special.
They are standard c10 2.5” drop spindles with the balljoint and tie rod holes that fit the c20 trucks.

Here’s an idea,… buy new stock or drop 73-87 HD spindles (the ones for 1.25” rotors) and have the holes reamed for your c20 size balljoints and tie rods.
Same thing as what I have.
Finding a set of stock height c10 spindles should be easy.
Just make sure they are for the 1.25” rotors, because the aftermarket 6-lug rotors are 1.25” also.

Thanks very much....I might even invest in the specific reamer for this purpose.

This is very helpful.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by NDM

Thanks very much....I might even invest in the specific reamer for this purpose.

This is very helpful.

I wish I new the correct size reamer, but I don’t.
It might take 2 reamers.
The c20 outer tie rod is probably a different taper.
You’ll just have to determine that.

[notsolo]

Great looking Blazer BTW...2wd or 4wd, I would recommend driving it with the new motor in it, if you can with least amount of effort. I did the 2wd conversion, with mostly gm parts, cross member, trailing arms etc, sold the 4 x 4 parts. 10 plus years later value wise the 4 x 4 would be worth more IMO...It's your ride and you get to decide on what works best for you. I'm back to working on mine TBI is gone, fixing some 1/2@ss work I had done previously and some other improvements.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Great looking Blazer BTW...2wd or 4wd, I would recommend driving it with the new motor in it, if you can with least amount of effort. I did the 2wd conversion, with mostly gm parts, cross member, trailing arms etc, sold the 4 x 4 parts. 10 plus years later value wise the 4 x 4 would be worth more IMO...It's your ride and you get to decide on what works best for you. I'm back to working on mine TBI is gone, fixing some 1/2@ss work I had done previously and some other improvements.

Thanks!
I am basically trying to save all the 4x4 parts for just that reason. I know that the market fluctuates a bit. I have been and want to continue to daily drive it. I was looking for a 2wd but the market was bonkers for 2wd $$$$$$. I found this 4x4 and figured I would immediately convert to 2wd and LS swap it. Well I kind of grew to like the height. I absolutely hate the leaks though. My 76 Buick was a leaky bastard originally too but I LS swapped it and did the 6l90e. It does not leak a single drip of anything and I have no regrets. It is fast as hell and with the 6 speed, it is buttery on the highway.

The more I research keeping 4x4, the more I realize that it will cost so much more to keep it 4x4 and do it right. So for now, I will plan to just install the 6.6liter and holley terminator x max with the factory th350 and 4x4 gear. As soon as I figure out the 2wd stuff, I will swap it. If I can figure it out soon, I will go with perhaps lifted 2wd with the 6l90e to keep it at the current height.
I am pretty sure that it will keep me satisfied for at least a few years until I stabilize my work situation and move forward with big changes (Autcross style or Pre-runner style). I can see myself enjoying a smooth buttery ride with gobs of power available.

I have driven mostly 2wd vehicles for most of my life (Minus my military years). I am perfectly happy doing so. One thing is for sure, the resale aspect is not for me. That will only be for those that sell my Blazer after I kick the bucket. This thing is staying with me until I am gone!

[NDM]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Here’s the part number for those spindles.
They are really nothing special.
They are standard c10 2.5” drop spindles with the balljoint and tie rod holes that fit the c20 trucks.

Here’s an idea,… buy new stock or drop 73-87 HD spindles (the ones for 1.25” rotors) and have the holes reamed for your c20 size balljoints and tie rods.
Same thing as what I have.
Finding a set of stock height c10 spindles should be easy.
Just make sure they are for the 1.25” rotors, because the aftermarket 6-lug rotors are 1.25” also.

If you do actually consider selling the spindles, I would love to buy them from you. I am kind of nervous about doing as you suggested. I don't want to buy all the stuff and screw up the taper mod and waste my buckaroos. I sure as heck wish I could find a set of these somewhere. It seems like the most ideal way to go.

[NDM]

WOW! I am posting this to help me save it. This is by far the most detailed how to for disassembly and assembly of a 6l90E that I have ever seen! I am feeling pretty comfy that I could convert my 2wd 6l90E to 4x4 if I so choose.
This video is golden!

Part 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncD6M1DsnaY

Part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reGawHxASCs

[NDM]

Started buying a few parts.
mount adapter for the LT motor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HY4TZMK...roduct_details

ICT Billet 2014-up LT L83 L86 LT1 Billet Engine Swap Bracket SBC Conversion Motor Mount Plate Gen V Adapter Small Block 551363X

LT fuel pump plug
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087YKMXDB...roduct_details

ICT Billet LT Gen V High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter Plug Direct Injection to Port Injection Conversion L82 L83 L84 L86 L87 LT1 L8B LT4 LT5 LTX 551965-PLUG