BBC Chevy 454 and what tranny?

[vegaschevy]

Well I picked up my first part of my build (my 71 cab) and have a rolling chassis that will be shipping to my house from indiana in a few weeks.

Time to start getting a motor started and get an idea of what direction i need to go to reach what my goal is.

I really was debating between a SBC and BBC and well a BIg Block won.

On to the build. I want a goal of around 500 HP give a few extra LOL I am guessing the best way to do this is to purchase a bare block and have a machinist work on it to get it in perfect condition.
What list of parts from start to finish (im probably starting with a bare block and will need to finish it off with a carb to run) would everyone recommend to reach my goal? I have read and many said a 496 sroker kit. I am going to drive it on the street quite a bit and of course at the track just as much. Im not gonna say money is no object but I would like to make sure I am getting a quality reliable BBC.
Also what would be a good tranny to put behind this motor?

any and all help would be awesome!! Also what is a good price to pay for a 454 block to get done up? i know 4 bolt mains anything else to look for?

[kwhite4]

If your going to build one then make sure you get a good rotating assembly to start with along with a good pair of heads. You could build a mild bbc thats setup for nos that way you can ride around town and still be fun at the track. As far as the tranny unless you want 5 or 6 gears I would use a turbo 400, not hard to install and strong enough for most anything if its built right.

[vegaschevy]

Im building a vortech 454. I fond a member of htis board who has one with a spun bearing which is no big deal since I will be building a stroker anyways.

anyone do this? how much HP and what parts?

[chevybuldr]

I wouldnt go with a Vortec. Everything on them is different. Weaker castings. Yea they are 4 bolt but you can stud a 2 bolt for what you are doing. A good crank and rods. Pretty decent price from say SCAT or eagle. Even OHIO has some decent stuff. A nice cap screw style rod and a piston that does not weigh a ton. Then invest in some heads. Again I would stay away from that late model motor. Early motor is thicker and stronger and parts interchange. Just my 2 cents. Talk to 454HO he built one also.

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

Well I picked up my first part of my build (my 71 cab) and have a rolling chassis that will be shipping to my house from indiana in a few weeks.

Time to start getting a motor started and get an idea of what direction i need to go to reach what my goal is.

I really was debating between a SBC and BBC and well a BIg Block won.

On to the build. I want a goal of around 500 HP give a few extra LOL I am guessing the best way to do this is to purchase a bare block and have a machinist work on it to get it in perfect condition.
What list of parts from start to finish (im probably starting with a bare block and will need to finish it off with a carb to run) would everyone recommend to reach my goal? I have read and many said a 496 sroker kit. I am going to drive it on the street quite a bit and of course at the track just as much. Im not gonna say money is no object but I would like to make sure I am getting a quality reliable BBC.
Also what would be a good tranny to put behind this motor?

any and all help would be awesome!! Also what is a good price to pay for a 454 block to get done up? i know 4 bolt mains anything else to look for?

So you canned the 383 huh?If you want 500 hp on the street you a 5 something ci.

[djracer]

A pump gas 496 with a decent head should be pretty strong. I too would stay with a gen 4 motor. If you get a mid to late 80's 454 it should be already clearanced for a 4 1/4 stroke. My buddy has one in his malibu.

[vegaschevy]

I have been told that a vortec 454 block is the way to go if I am building a motor up. THe heads are pretty damn good and everything else is interchangeable except for the fuel pump I believe.
Why is it not as good? Where does it lack?

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by djracer

A pump gas 496 with a decent head should be pretty strong. I too would stay with a gen 4 motor. If you get a mid to late 80's 454 it should be already clearanced for a 4 1/4 stroke. My buddy has one in his malibu.

THat is where I am headed, a premium pump gas 496 build. Nice set of heads, cam, everything.
I just need to know what parts work well together and what I should be getting.

[BossHogg69]

It would help tremendously if you had some budget guidelines to go by! What kind of cam do you want to run? Roller? flat tappet? Aluminum heads? Iron? You really need a budget first, then it will be easier to helop you pick the parts that fit your goal and your budget. You can spend $6000 easily on a ground up big block build, so what are you wiling to (realistically) work with?

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

It would help tremendously if you had some budget guidelines to go by! What kind of cam do you want to run? Roller? flat tappet? Aluminum heads? Iron? You really need a budget first, then it will be easier to helop you pick the parts that fit your goal and your budget. You can spend $6000 easily on a ground up big block build, so what are you wiling to (realistically) work with?

That is why I asked for help to get an idea of what build components. My goal is 500+ Hp which is doable with a 496 stroker or whatever is recommended and 5k or so

[BossHogg69]

Why not do this? I know it's not a GEN VI, but it is a ready to run 496, and right around your budget.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP4960CT/

It's only 20hp shy of 500 and leaves no guesswork... If I didn't already have a big block when I started my build, I would've gone this route or something similiar. Mine's a Mark IV, and I could list the parts I have, but if you're dead set on a Gen VI and the Vortec BB heads, then the cam/valvetrain will be different. (mine's flat tappet, GEN VI are roller)

[chevybuldr]

I know I will get flogged here on this.

whos head did you buy? You can not just take them out of the box and bolt them on.

[BossHogg69]

I bought a set of Edelbrock marine heads.

I know where you're going with this, but he'll have less work to do buying a set of new heads than having stockers rebuilt.

[chevybuldr]

I would really suggest that you have them taken apart and everything checked. We have done more then a few and clearances were not really up to spec. Guides way to tight and the head gasket surface was out. Also very wise to have the springs set up to YOUR cam. I know they say out of the box ready to run. Think of it as cheap insurance. Few hundred to check them all out and set them right or couple grand to fix your baby that you just finished. Its just not worth it.

[BossHogg69]

I don't disagree with that one bit, my point was just that the parts are already there and brand new rather than reviving a set of old heads that you'll completely have to go through anyway.

[chevybuldr]

oh no i totally agree with you. By the time you put a set of heads together its just not worth it. Tell alot of customers that same thing. Unless its stock resto or a race car that rules say you have to its just not worth it.

[vegaschevy]

So if I go with one of those stroker cranks what would be a good set of ALuminum heads to run that will not hold me back or be too big. Also Ill need an intake and carb. What would everyone recommend for taking a bare gen VI block and getting it to a running state?

Intake:
Carb:
Cam:
Rockers:
Lifters
Valve Covers
ETC:

[Marv D]

I'm going to stay out of the motor build as you have plenty of great advice here. ESPECIALY chevybuilder who is urging you to have those new heads disassembeled, thouroughly cleaned , and re-assembeled by a builder willing to take the time to check EVERYTHING as they go back together. It's not a slam to Edelbrock, it's just good sound advice for anyone who thinks a head out of the box is ready to 'bolt on'.

Now, the only reason I stuck my nose in here is trans suggestion. Your going to have more torque than you know what to do with here, I'm sure of that. But simply for the highway friendlyness (is that a word?) for trans I only got one suggestion...... 4L80E. Set gear ratio / tire size to be aroubnd 2500-2800 @ 55mph in 3rd (like a 3.40 or 3.73 gear and 31ish" tire) and you'll be cruising along sipping fuel just over 2000rpm locked up in OD. Put a 2400-2600 convertor in it and I bet you forget all about any thought of needing a blower.

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by Marv D

I'm going to stay out of the motor build as you have plenty of great advice here. ESPECIALY chevybuilder who is urging you to have those new heads disassembeled, thouroughly cleaned , and re-assembeled by a builder willing to take the time to check EVERYTHING as they go back together. It's not a slam to Edelbrock, it's just good sound advice for anyone who thinks a head out of the box is ready to 'bolt on'.

Now, the only reason I stuck my nose in here is trans suggestion. Your going to have more torque than you know what to do with here, I'm sure of that. But simply for the highway friendlyness (is that a word?) for trans I only got one suggestion...... 4L80E. Set gear ratio / tire size to be aroubnd 2500-2800 @ 55mph in 3rd (like a 3.40 or 3.73 gear and 31ish" tire) and you'll be cruising along sipping fuel just over 2000rpm locked up in OD. Put a 2400-2600 convertor in it and I bet you forget all about any thought of needing a blower.

Marv I can't believe he is gonna drive this on the street.I hope he has a good converter and tranny so it will idle.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by Rodms

Marv I can't believe he is gonna drive this on the street.I hope he has a good converter and tranny so it will idle.

your telling me a 496 stroker is not streetable? come on now 550 HP 496 stroker is VERY streetable

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

your telling me a 496 stroker is not streetable? come on now 550 HP 496 stroker is VERY streetable

No just have the right cam and converter and tranny,some cams are to much to idle in a street ap,don't think I'm talking you are doing something that is hard to drive down to the sonic without turning it of at the traffic light

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by Rodms

No just have the right cam and converter and tranny,some cams are to much to idle in a street ap,don't think I'm talking you are doing something that is hard to drive down to the sonic without turning it of at the traffic light

well what do you suggest? that was the whole point of this thread

It will not be a daily driver however it will be driven a lot I am not afraid to drive a nice high HP truck

[Outlaw72]

Vegas....the cam you have picked out is very streetable. Nothing at all wrong with it. I just built a solid roller pump gas 496 with afr heads and victor jr intake. The cam has 260 degrees of duration @ .050 and the 3000 stall I have will work just fine. Idles fine at about 900 rpm. You will more than likely break the 500 - 525 hp barrier with some decent heads.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by Outlaw72

Vegas....the cam you have picked out is very streetable. Nothing at all wrong with it. I just built a solid roller pump gas 496 with afr heads and victor jr intake. The cam has 260 degrees of duration @ .050 and the 3000 stall I have will work just fine. Idles fine at about 900 rpm. You will more than likely break the 500 - 525 hp barrier with some decent heads.

I never picked out a cam

I have a bare block ready to be built up to 500-550 HP.

I just need a parts list on what is good.

[Outlaw72]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

I never picked out a cam

I have a bare block ready to be built up to 500-550 HP.

I just need a parts list on what is good.

Sorry....I misread one of the posts. Everyone has their different opinions on what parts are "good" so I will list my combo and you can use it as reference. I feel that my parts are plenty "good"
SRP 212157 pistons. 496 6.385 rod 18cc dome about 10:1 with 118cc chamber head. This could vary depending on head gasket thickness.
Eagle h-beam rods 6.385.....floaters
Cat 4340 forged crank 4.25 stroke
Custom grind solid roller....basically max effort with street manners and 3,000 stall
Billet steel double roller timing chain
AFR 305 as cast heads
Victor 454R as cast intake

I cannot remember the year on the block but it needed no additional clearance work for the stroker
Line bore and stud the mains 2 bolt
Bore and hone with torque plates
Square deck

Due to the line bore...I had to buy a timing chain that was .005 shorter than normal. Should make between 650hp and 680hp......maybe more maybe less i dunno. I built it to run nitrous so the hp numbers mean nothing to me.