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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Working on the Truck Bed
I'm working on the truck bed and making good progress. The PO screwed Trex on top of the bed wood, surprisingly, the wood underneath isn't in bad shape, other than some splitting. A rear bed sill and front bed panel are on order from FixMyRust.com, haven't used them before, but the prices are good and shipping is free. And while the bed is off, going to clean up the frame and paint it.
Not having taken a bed apart before, I'm looking for wisdom from those that have. It's a short bed fleetside and a daily driver:
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. Last edited by ACK; 03-27-2015 at 11:21 PM. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Decided to go with POR-15 and black paint on the bed wood after reading this article ... http://www.mar-k.com/june_2010_update.aspx
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 282
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
1] yes the tubs are bolted to the bed sides 6ea bolts if I remember correctly. I had to use the heat wrench because of the crud when I disassembled.
2] My bed did not have pads and I am not putting anything between the cross sills and frame points as it would raise the bed and miss match the body lines on mine. 3] My rear sill was spotted to the bed sides in one place each side. i do not think I am going to re-weld this. When assembled the bed seems to be rigid and it can always be done after the fact if it needs it. 4] I have used epoxy to repair wood splits in the past and had great results. On boats I have used the West System product and had great results. 5] I elected to polyurethane but I am doing a teak bead. I saw your note on POR 15. My experience is that anything Mar-K recommends is golden. 6] I am using the Raptor bed liner a lot on my project but my strips are polished. Seems to me it would hold up better than paint but I would use an epoxy primer underneath. Just me but I wear suspenders and belt when ever possible.
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65 C10 Short bed, Fleetside, small back window Build thread - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619304 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Thanks nhr3 for the info, great help. New day and made some progress this morning. Found the 2 additional anchor points to the frame, they were at the top of the bed, hidden by a 1/4 inch of crud. Also located the body bolts for the wheel tubs, looking at their condition, I'm thinking of grinding them off or getting a nut splitter. Break time is over, back to the garage.
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#5 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
IF your planning on using a coating on top of the wood, you might actually consider using that Trex (or new trex) instead. I made my custom bed floor out of that type of stuff, and it offered me the benefit of being able to use less bracing (my bed is cut for tubs) and allows me to run a fuel cell door and battery door in the bed floor. The synthetic stuff takes Lining/painting without trapped moisture being a concern.
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING ![]() |
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#6 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Day 3 and I'm almost done. The driver side wheel tub wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, hope the passenger side is as cooperative. The biggest take away has been moving the bench grinder into the garage to sharpen drill bits on the fly. Dull bits don't do much when drilling out bolts.
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fallbrook CA
Posts: 453
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Carriage bolt, washer, lockwasher, nut. Repeat, about 150 times. But, you can't beat the way an oak bed looks.
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#8 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,923
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Always a pain (to me) to replace the bed wood, but so worth it when they are done.
I cut most of my bolts off when I did my 70, or cut groves in the bolt heads to get a grip on them. Very nice job on yours BR3W
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! Last edited by Palf70Step; 03-28-2015 at 06:57 PM. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
The wood and tubs are out and the real work can begin. Used the bolts from the tubs to attach the cross sills back to the body panels seeing how unstable the bed was with nothing solid holding it together except the 4 corners. Will take off the rear bumper so not to scratch the paint, probably the tail gate, too, to lighten it up since man power will be lifting the bed off.
Once the tubs are cleaned up, any harm in spraying the insides with rubberized under coating? Give the insides a shot of primer and paint first? On second thought, maybe I should leave all the crud in there, it's probably what's kept the tubs from rusting out ![]()
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
Cleaning up the wheel tubs today, looks like a sealer was used where the tubs meet the bed wall and also where they sit on the bed wood. Should both these areas be hit with seam sealer when it goes back together or just where the bed wall and tubs meet? If both need sealer, when the wood goes back in, use seam sealer on the lip that runs down both sides and the front of the bed where the wood sits? Would seem to make sense since you wouldn't want water trapped between the bed wood and the lip.
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
TTT – Anyone know if the wheel tubs should have seam sealer applied where they sit on the bed wood and also where they meet the bed wall?
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#12 |
One foot in front of the other
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Parrottsville, TN
Posts: 5,440
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
The ones that I have taken apart, did not have seam sealer anyplace.
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#13 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,159
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
No sealer between tub an wood, YES, sealer between tub and box.
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 972
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
What kind of sealer goes here? I thought about putting sealer there, but it seems so wide open that it might be better to leave it sealer-free and it would have LESS chance of water getting trapped somewhere. Maybe I'm crazy.
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 539
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Re: Working on the Truck Bed
I finished scraping the tubs yesterday and there was a bead of gray putty (seam sealer?) along the lip that meets the wood, hence the call out. From the amount of crud and the condition of the bolts and bed wood, I don't think they've been removed before, so I was speculating that the putty was put on at the factory.
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My truck ain't dead, it just smells funny. |
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#16 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 176
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1965 C10 Longbed Stepside 1969 Chevelle Malibu 1962 C20 Fleetside - Build Thread (Sold before I could finish) |
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