Electrical Gremlins

[NC-K5]

As “Bull 72” posted way back when, “Some guys have skills and some have bills.” Well, I am another one with bills – and electrical gremlins – and I’m hoping some of you guys with skills can help out.

I bought a 72 K5 about a month ago, and had it shipped here. When it got here on the transport truck, the battery was dead. It jumped after a few minutes, and everything seemed fine. I started it up again later that day, no problem, and it drives great. But the next morning, it was dead as a doornail again. And I couldn’t even get it to jump.

I brought the battery to work, and a guy I work with tested it. Totally dead, but he charged it back up, it was fully charged, and I dropped it back in. And nothing. No crank, not even the headlights would come on.

So AAA towed it in to the mechanic, who replaced the battery cable and a couple other things. Started right up when I went to pick it up, and had a great 10-minute drive home. Next morning, same thing. Dead again.

So here comes AAA again with the tow-truck. This time, the mechanic replaced the battery, and the starter, and was convinced problems would be solved. And again, starts right up, I get a glorious ride home, drive thru the BK for a whopper, and pull in the driveway thinking I’m driving the new truck to work tomorrow. Later that night, again it won’t start! The headlights would still come on, and the brake light on the dash would come on, and the engine was clearly trying to crank a bit. And the next morning, I tried again, and no reaction at all. No crank, no lights, no nothing.

So I’m no genius, but it seems to me that something is draining the battery while the car isn’t running – as evidenced by the fact that the longer I wait to start it, the less reaction I get, even from headlights, and dashlights.

I haven’t had a chance to take it back to the mechanic yet, but was wondering if any of you guys have any clues. My mechanic has already banged me up for an unreasonable amount of money, and I’m still right where I started.

[jonesky2]

if i was you i would get a light tester and take your positive battery cable off and connect the tester between the positive cable and battery to see if your getting drainage. then go pop out some fuses to see if the light turns off. that might help narrow it down.

[Critter]

Originally Posted by jonesky2

if i was you i would get a light tester and take your positive battery cable off and connect the tester between the positive cable and battery to see if your getting drainage. then go pop out some fuses to see if the light turns off. that might help narrow it down.

Jonesky has the right idea. This won't always work on newer vehicles with more electronics, but works great on 72 and before. Another quick fix to keep you driving is one of these linked below (can get them at the local parts stores). Just a quick way to disconnect your positive cable while you are at work/overnight, etc until you can get the problem corrected. Also, maybe I missed it in your post, but have you had your alternator checked?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-74103/

[jav418]

Hey this web site should help

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/B...teryDrain.html

[69TowRig]

I chased tons of electrical gremlins like this for three months when I was trying to get my Blazer driveable again after years of neglect by the PO. Good luck. Check for shorts from the positive terminal through the wires for the body harness that run along the radiator support. As well as any other "constant hot" wiring in the truck. Mine was so old and brittle that the insulation had cracked and was incidentally shorting against some body sheet metal and causing a battery drain.

Test lights are your friend. Worst come to worst bring it over and we can check it out, you are just down the road from here.