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08-23-2015, 04:07 PM | #1 |
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4" lift question
The steering arm seems to be newer for the lift but the pitman arm seems to be original - does this look correct?? And while test driving, one way turns more than the other. Can I get better steering by putting on a drop pitman and finding center on the steering wheel??? Never dealt with a lift before and don't know what the PO has done. I do know that the steering arm had a sticker on it stating that you need the correct pitman arm ( it was a warning sticker ), so what would be the correct pitman arm?? Thx in advance!
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08-23-2015, 05:22 PM | #2 |
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Re: 4" lift question
To me it looks like you have a drop steering arm and a stock pitman. I have the same combination on my truck.
I had a similar issue that the truck would turn sharper to the left than the right. Eventually, I was able to adjust the steering stops and linkage to get proper turning radius with a centered steering wheel.
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08-23-2015, 10:59 PM | #3 |
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Re: 4" lift question
The dropped steering arm is correct for a 4" lift. Your steering wasn't properly centered when lift went on. You need to count the turns of the steering wheel lock to lock and divide in two. You set your wheels to straight, disconnect the drag link,turn the steering wheel to center between locks, and adjust drag link to fit. Right now your turn signal probably cancels before straight going one way and doesn't cancel the other way
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09-11-2015, 07:53 PM | #4 | |
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Re: 4" lift question
Quote:
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09-22-2015, 05:10 PM | #5 |
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Re: 4" lift question
Your steering arm and drag link are fine. The issue you are having is related to your sway bar.
When you lift these trucks you CANNOT bolt the sway bar back in place without bad things happening. Unbolt the sway bar and tie it up out of the way and report back. Also drag link looks a bit worn and might need to replace the ends. Oh and I just noticed that your pitman arm is pointed further towards the back than the front. What you need to do to alleviate this as well is disconnect the rod end from the pitman arm then turn your steering wheel all the way left then all the way right. Count the turns divide by two and that is your mid point for the steering wheel. Hopefully your pitman arm is more pointing towards your left tire than the back of the truck. Once you have that relatively centered hook up the rod end again and go for a drive and make sure the steering wheel is centered. If it is not loose off the two bolts and lube the crap out of that retainer ring for the rod ends and stick a pipe wrench on and turn it to center. Last edited by enaberif; 09-22-2015 at 05:16 PM. |
09-22-2015, 08:18 PM | #6 |
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Re: 4" lift question
Special-K is spot on with the centering... the pitman arm should also be fairly horizontal (that's what she said) or you could get bump steer every time the suspension flexes hard.
A dropped steering arm would be better than the "S" shaped pitman arm if that needs to be done.
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09-22-2015, 10:54 PM | #7 |
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Re: 4" lift question
His steering setup is perfectly fine for a 4" lift. He needs to get new brackets for his sway bar because as it is that is not correct.
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09-23-2015, 06:47 AM | #8 |
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Re: 4" lift question
the sway bar wouldn't cause the steering to be more in one direction and less in another though. It could cause some binding in the movement but I doubt it hurts that much.
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
09-23-2015, 07:50 AM | #9 |
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Re: 4" lift question
The swap bar is suspension. This is a steering issue. Nothing I see in the pictures indicates the swap bar is mounted incorrectly to me. If the sway bar can mount w/o a spacer, more power to ya. But I imagine there has to be a spacer. There is no way that bar hooks up w/o them, I've tried. Nothing bad happens once you bolt it up using the spacer provided by lift companies.
We have the steering issue solved. I'd like to hear the results
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
09-23-2015, 01:52 PM | #10 |
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Re: 4" lift question
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09-23-2015, 03:08 PM | #11 | |
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Re: 4" lift question
Quote:
sounds like that's internal to your column, under the wheel and horn.
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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09-23-2015, 03:38 PM | #12 |
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Re: 4" lift question
No, it's the same as what bigday160 stated
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09-24-2015, 07:36 AM | #13 |
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Re: 4" lift question
Just read the thread. It has been explained by me in Post#3 and again by enaberif in Post#5. The steering wheel is the last step once steering is centered. Your turn signal issues will be solved by this.
Looks like you are missing the boot on your forward drag link
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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