my C10 project....building a truck from a heap of parts

[moregrip]

this is a long time coming, my goal is to finally finish a classic chevy truck build.....I have failed at every attempt since I was a teenager and I'm 45 yrs old now. The idea/borderline obsession with classic chevy's started when I was about 15 when I bought a good running 71 C20 longbed 350/4spd with the granny gear for $500. That little 350 screamed but the cab was a bondo farm! one of the worst I've ever seen.
I stripped that truck down to a frame sitting on jackstands in my parents 2 car garage and wire wheeled the entire thing to bare metal, primed and painted it with whatever rattle paint we had lying around; bought about $1200 worth in new suspension/drivetrain parts at the local mom & pop auto parts store(not as many chains back then); that was at a reduced price because I worked at the Texaco gas station and the owner(who became a good friend over the years) had a 3 bay garage he did repairs out of, so I got his account/pricing on all the Moog parts/etc......................that is probably when this whole Chevy truck obsession started for me............right about that same time my dad had had about enough with all the truck parts on the side of the house and this frame on jackstands in his garage.....mind you I was very clean about the whole thing and used the powdered shop soap to clean off the concrete every day and squeegee it dry but it just wasn't meant to be; on a side note, that soap probably wasn't the best thing to be flowing down the street gutters.....but things were different back then. So my dad pulled me aside and said he was getting rid of the truck, I reluctantly agreed...yeah I was pissed.....and maybe even a little relieved with the scope of what the project had become.......but I never let my dad know that part.....hehehe......for the next several months he cut the truck into managable pieces with a sawzall and took the parts his metal trash bin at work until it was just a memory.

Fast forward to 2012, bought a C20 roller for $600 bucks with plans to make it decent DD but nothing over the top. Then again in 2014 bought a running(although not very well) 1977 C10 inline 6 shortbed stepside for $1400 bucks. Neither of these projects panned out because I also decided to do a home renovation from 2012-2014 (which I did complete) and with my last sea tour just on the horizon(active duty Navy) and an out of state move in preparation for retirement, I boxed up what parts I could fit in the moving van and off we went. The C10 and C20 projects were no more. The next two years were so busy I barely had time to come home and see my newborn and wife, let alone start a project..............and then the day finally came! I retired from the Navy after 20yrs active duty!

So here I am....2017, 45yrs old, retired navy chief, full time contractor, happily married with 3 boys, 3 dogs and a turtle............and it's about damn time I finish one of these project trucks already! Don't get me wrong, I have completed other projects, but this one seems to be my nemesis..............

Essentially, what I have is a fairly decent parts pile I've managed to drag with me (new and used)(although some of my gems were forfeited in the move) along with a newly purchased parts truck(read rough canvas) I'm going to do my very best to transform it into the truck I've always wanted AND FINISH IT. It wont be a show stopper by any stretch....more like a nice DD with a few goodies.

If you've read all this and are still interested in the build, I kindly thank you.........I always feel like its nice to include a little back story so there it is! Thanks again and I'll be posting more soon!

Devin

[moregrip]

a question for those alot smarter than I, this is the rear suspension on my truck, what setup might this be? factory or aftermarket? mix of both maybe? thanks!

[jott_06]

Looks like factory on bottom and aftermarket overloads on top

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by jott_06

Looks like factory on bottom and aftermarket overloads on top

thanks man, that's what I was thinking based on the difference in hardware and leaf spring profiles.........

[moregrip]

A little progress today......removed mostly non factory items; the rear bumper and overload spring pack and then just got some general cleaning/assessing on the chassis accomplished, sprayed penetrating oil on just about every bolt I came in contact with......also got rid of some non factory wiring(although there appears to be alot more under the dash) and even vacuumed a few birds nests, lol, never fails!

[moregrip]

How do most of you dispose of a long bed?

[vht]

If it's a real nice one bring it to me, I know what to do with it. Just kidding, do you mean get rid of it? If it's scrap prices are down, but I got a guy I give all mine to and he picks it up no matter how big. Check around and I'm sure someone will haul it off.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by vht

If it's a real nice one bring it to me, I know what to do with it. Just kidding, do you mean get rid of it? If it's scrap prices are down, but I got a guy I give all mine to and he picks it up no matter how big. Check around and I'm sure someone will haul it off.

my problem is I just don't have the extra room to store large parts and I plan on cutting the frame to make this a shortbed so scrap may be a viable option. The bed is not in horrible shape but I wouldn't consider it a "first choice" starting point.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

my problem is I just don't have the extra room to store large parts and I plan on cutting the frame to make this a shortbed so scrap may be a viable option. The bed is not in horrible shape but I wouldn't consider it a "first choice" starting point.

Advertise it on Craigslist. Might be someone (even a youngster) needing a bed to move their project along.

[daddyjeep]

Good luck with your build and thank you for your service. Got a pic of what you are working on?

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Advertise it on Craigslist. Might be someone (even a youngster) needing a bed to move their project along.

Thanks, I may just do that and see if I can get some better exposure to the rear suspension!

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Good luck with your build and thank you for your service. Got a pic of what you are working on?

Thank you, was my pleasure to serve, I'll get some taken here this week and post them up.

question, is it common for these hood hinges (73-79 style) to be so difficult? fixes?

[moregrip]

I guess I should have said this up front but I probably have more questions than the average member......one, because I haven't really wrenched on a C10 in a while, and two I like to understand why/how things/processes are the way they are or how they got there.....

with that said:

I noticed while inspecting the frame that the leaf spring mounts are reinforced with some riveted L shaped plate........is this considered the heavy half or something else?

Untitled by

also, it appears when I finally get around to shortening the frame to switch to a shortbed setup I will have to remove the lower rivet farthest back on the frame to relocate the crossmember....am I seeing that correctly?

Untitled by

[Gmc.guy]

Originally Posted by moregrip

I guess I should have said this up front but I probably have more questions than the average member......one, because I haven't really wrenched on a C10 in a while, and two I like to understand why/how things/processes are the way they are or how they got there.....

with that said:

I noticed while inspecting the frame that the leaf spring mounts are reinforced with some riveted L shaped plate........is this considered the heavy half or something else?

Untitled by

also, it appears when I finally get around to shortening the frame to switch to a shortbed setup I will have to remove the lower rivet farthest back on the frame to relocate the crossmember....am I seeing that correctly?

Untitled by

I have a 77 heavy half that has them extra brackets. I think all the heavy leaf pack trucks got them. I did swap them onto my 74 short bed as well from another truck I have for parts

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by Gmc.guy

I have a 77 heavy half that has them extra brackets. I think all the heavy leaf pack trucks got them. I did swap them onto my 74 short bed as well from another truck I have for parts

thanks brother! appreciate that......was doing some research today on 73-87.com and it looks like my truck is most likely a Big 10.

[El Dorado Jim]

I think most guys get rid of the leaf springs and go with coils and trailing arms in the rear

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

I think most guys get rid of the leaf springs and go with coils and trailing arms in the rear

Thanks El Dorado, that would be awesome but for the time being I'm pretty sure I'm keeping the leaf springs, mainly due to cost.....hopefully in the future there's a nice truck arm or coil over rear suspension in my life

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

I think most guys get rid of the leaf springs and go with coils and trailing arms in the rear

I've been on this site for a while & would say there are a few that might swap over to a T/A conversion but they are the exception. "Most" guys just re-work & try to improve what they have (sticking w/the leaf set-up) on their Square body trucks.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I've been on this site for a while & would say there are a few that might swap over to a T/A conversion but they are the exception. "Most" guys just re-work & try to improve what they have (sticking w/the leaf set-up) on their Square body trucks.

Hey SCOTI, I would love a sweet 4 link or trailing arm suspension.......but one of things I'm trying to do, more so than in the past, is "smartly" decide where my time, effort, and money gets invested......so anything in good serviceable shape will more than likely get re-used over buying something new.

Which brings me to another point, I've never done sheet metal repair, always wanted to learn/try, but is repairing my current cab worth it considering I don't own a welder and then add in the cost of repair panels vs a rust free cab? Should I be investing my limited time elsewhere?

I've already sort of broken a promise to myself.....which was.....I was going to wait until my 3 car garage auto/fab shop was completely or nearly completely setup before I started another large project......I started looking up the cost of some of the NOS parts or just solid used parts for Squarebodies nowadays............holy cow $h!t! I started to wonder if I could even afford a Square in say 2 years............the prices in some cases are higher than the 67-72 stuff!..........plus..........I always like to have at least one project laying around, even if it just sits there..........it's a sickness I guess

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by moregrip

Which brings me to another point, I've never done sheet metal repair, always wanted to learn/try, but is repairing my current cab worth it considering I don't own a welder and then add in the cost of repair panels vs a rust free cab? Should I be investing my limited time elsewhere?

I say go for it. Get yourself a little 110v welder for a few hundred bucks and go to it. If you have wanted to learn, this would be a good time to do so. I paid just under $600 for my little lincoln welder and it has opened up so many doors for my projects.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

I say go for it. Get yourself a little 110v welder for a few hundred bucks and go to it. If you have wanted to learn, this would be a good time to do so. I paid just under $600 for my little lincoln welder and it has opened up so many doors for my projects.

damnit! there you go encouraging me!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

Hey SCOTI, I would love a sweet 4 link or trailing arm suspension.......but one of things I'm trying to do, more so than in the past, is "smartly" decide where my time, effort, and money gets invested......so anything in good serviceable shape will more than likely get re-used over buying something new.

Which brings me to another point, I've never done sheet metal repair, always wanted to learn/try, but is repairing my current cab worth it considering I don't own a welder and then add in the cost of repair panels vs a rust free cab? Should I be investing my limited time elsewhere?

I've already sort of broken a promise to myself.....which was.....I was going to wait until my 3 car garage auto/fab shop was completely or nearly completely setup before I started another large project......I started looking up the cost of some of the NOS parts or just solid used parts for Squarebodies nowadays............holy cow $h!t! I started to wonder if I could even afford a Square in say 2 years............the prices in some cases are higher than the 67-72 stuff!..........plus..........I always like to have at least one project laying around, even if it just sits there..........it's a sickness I guess

it's a Catch-22 sometimes.... You want it done fast, cheap, or correct? Pick 2 of the 3 options.

For reference, I paid a local to me/well known shop to help w/some suspension & related fab work on my longest tenured project years ago (my 67 Retro-Rod project dates back to the late 80's for the record). In the early 90's, I paid for a pair of coil-overs, some frame boxing material, & 3" mufflers w/exhaust tubing. To help offset my costs, I helped w/the fab related items I could: I cut & fit most of the boxing plate for the frame so I knew those pieces were good to go; I did the generic layout/gross cuts for the exhaust; & I spot cleaned the epoxy primer off the frame for welding (I had already stripped, blasted, & epoxied the frame @ my place).

Their work was to weld in the boxing plate for select areas (T/A x-member for exhaust ports + for rear axle c-notches); make the transition pieces to finish the exhaust layout & weld it out; build rear C/O mounting brackets; & build reinforced c-notches.

I pre-paid about $500 for the parts/materials. I was a little surprised when I got my bill for the labor.... almost $1200. Not that it was overly excessive; but in my head I did a lot of the 'pre-fab' grind to fit grunt work & figured that would really make an impact on cost. I could only imagine what the bill would have been just dropping it off w/a 'to-do' punch-list. The gut punch? The c-notches were not aligned for the axle centerline @ the planned/discussed ride height of the frame rails (the notches made contact w/the T/A's U-bolts).

So $1200 spent for labor & then some of that was still going to have to be corrected. I was more than frustrated. The money could have paid for a welder (machine). Once the machine is paid for, all future work diminishes its cost.... Since then, no more shops for me if @ all possible.

I bought my own machine (1yr financing @ 0% if paid before the year was up).
I started doing small fab jobs on one of my frames & that trucks sheet metal to improve my skill level.
Then I started building notched front cross-members (built 4 to sell which in turn paid for the machine).
I cut-up, modified, & built a chassis for my 64 project.
I did another front x-member + all the fab work for the rear suspension on my dually (step notches, 4-bar w/Panhard bar, raised bed floor).
I helped do suspension & build mods for my buddy's kids car which we traded out in labor (he helped do my interiors on my 64 & my dually).
In the future I plan to completely modify/build a new chassis for that first long term project that helped start me in this direction years ago.....

Investing in tools is wise if you use them. They can/will pay for themselves.
After tools & if time is the driving force, be on the lookout for rust free parts to swap vs the hours/money required to repair rusted stuff. There's no shame in working smarter vs harder.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

it's a Catch-22 sometimes.... You want it done fast, cheap, or correct? Pick 2 of the 3 options.

For reference, I paid a local to me/well known shop to help w/some suspension & related fab work on my longest tenured project years ago (my 67 Retro-Rod project dates back to the late 80's for the record). In the early 90's, I paid for a pair of coil-overs, some frame boxing material, & 3" mufflers w/exhaust tubing. To help offset my costs, I helped w/the fab related items I could: I cut & fit most of the boxing plate for the frame so I knew those pieces were good to go; I did the generic layout/gross cuts for the exhaust; & I spot cleaned the epoxy primer off the frame for welding (I had already stripped, blasted, & epoxied the frame @ my place).

Their work was to weld in the boxing plate for select areas (T/A x-member for exhaust ports + for rear axle c-notches); make the transition pieces to finish the exhaust layout & weld it out; build rear C/O mounting brackets; & build reinforced c-notches.

I pre-paid about $500 for the parts/materials. I was a little surprised when I got my bill for the labor.... almost $1200. Not that it was overly excessive; but in my head I did a lot of the 'pre-fab' grind to fit grunt work & figured that would really make an impact on cost. I could only imagine what the bill would have been just dropping it off w/a 'to-do' punch-list. The gut punch? The c-notches were not aligned for the axle centerline @ the planned/discussed ride height of the frame rails (the notches made contact w/the T/A's U-bolts).

So $1200 spent for labor & then some of that was still going to have to be corrected. I was more than frustrated. The money could have paid for a welder (machine). Once the machine is paid for, all future work diminishes its cost.... Since then, no more shops for me if @ all possible.

I bought my own machine (1yr financing @ 0% if paid before the year was up).
I started doing small fab jobs on one of my frames & that trucks sheet metal to improve my skill level.
Then I started building notched front cross-members (built 4 to sell which in turn paid for the machine).
I cut-up, modified, & built a chassis for my 64 project.
I did another front x-member + all the fab work for the rear suspension on my dually (step notches, 4-bar w/Panhard bar, raised bed floor).
I helped do suspension & build mods for my buddy's kids car which we traded out in labor (he helped do my interiors on my 64 & my dually).
In the future I plan to completely modify/build a new chassis for that first long term project that helped start me in this direction years ago.....

Investing in tools is wise if you use them. They can/will pay for themselves.
After tools & if time is the driving force, be on the lookout for rust free parts to swap vs the hours/money required to repair rusted stuff. There's no shame in working smarter vs harder.

First, I thank you for taking the time to post your experiences and advice, very cool man.

I'll be the first to admit, I want a welder.....no question about it! I even took 2 college courses, years ago, in SMAW and TIG, I'm somewhat familiar with those processes.....I've run a MIG on an occasion or two, no significant issues I can remember. Although my day to day time is limited(work/family/honeydo list), my total length of time for the build is fairly indefinite (which can be both a good thing and a bad thing, for me at least)......I tend to go all Mr perfection on stuff. I will also say, I borderline hate paying someone to do a job I believe I can do better even with little to no experience on the task. I've seen it first hand 100 times, and I always come to the same conclusion, do it yourself! Of course, I need a painful reminder every once in a while as to why I do as much of my own work as I possibly can. Probably why at 45 my back is $h!t, but I digress. Your example above helps quite a bit in remembering why we do things as passionate enthusiasts vs a company for profit. disclaimer: I understand, not every company out there sucks, but many do (end rant/opinion)

So I think if I adjust my plans slightly, start saving for a MIG welder, maybe work some smart trades/sales, and ultimately learn some new fab skills, this build has a better chance of ending with higher overall satisfaction.

[vht]

A friend of mine has built I don't know how many cars with a Harbor Freight 220 mig welder. Go for it, people get crazy prices for fab work. I do everything myself, if I don't know how to do it, I learn. I got way more time than money. Alot of times you can get by with a cheaper tool.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by vht

A friend of mine has built I don't know how many cars with a Harbor Freight 220 mig welder. Go for it, people get crazy prices for fab work. I do everything myself, if I don't know how to do it, I learn. I got way more time than money. Alot of times you can get by with a cheaper tool.

I agree that many tools can be purchased and reasonably relied on from discount places such as Harbor Freight, but I don't think a welder is one of those tools. Save your pennies and get something decent. If I had to do it over again I would save a few more pennies and look into the Esab Rebel. It is a small all in one machine that runs MIG, TIG, or stick on either 110 or 220. I am sure it falls short of a larger dedicated machine in many ways, but for us hobby guys I think it would be perfect.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

I agree that many tools can be purchased and reasonably relied on from discount places such as Harbor Freight, but I don't think a welder is one of those tools. Save your pennies and get something decent. If I had to do it over again I would save a few more pennies and look into the Esab Rebel. It is a small all in one machine that runs MIG, TIG, or stick on either 110 or 220. I am sure it falls short of a larger dedicated machine in many ways, but for us hobby guys I think it would be perfect.

Too add to this.... The unit I purchased was a Hobart 210 (basically 'base' models built by Miller) from Northern Tool. Northern Tool had a 1yr no-interest credit deal going on. I was able to get my welder + a Hobart plasma cutter on my purchase & used/gained experience on both while paying them off within the year (vs saving the total cash to buy & having to wait/lose opportunity toward my learning curve).

Originally Posted by moregrip

....I even took 2 college courses, years ago, in SMAW and TIG, I'm somewhat familiar with those processes.....I've run a MIG on an occasion or two, no significant issues I can remember.

I did the same. But, after not having the equipment to continue practicing/working with, the beginners ability seems to dwindle. If you have a Northern Tool, see if they offer the same type of credit deal that helped me....