Screwed, Glued and Tattooed!! Who would do this?!?!

[Vicente Aceves]

I just bought this 1974 GMC pickup and I need some help with getting the glue off of it.

Someone screwed and glued carpet to the dash, glovebox, kick-panels etc. The carpet left a lot of glue after I started peeling it off.

The dash cover has some cracks and the glovebox has some black spray paint on it but I’d still rather have that than the glued carpet.

It also looks like the previous owner sprayed some black paint (undercoating maybe)?? in the engine compartment and in the process masked off the fenders and grill. It doesn’t look like he was intentionally trying to hide any big rotted areas. But he did leave the masking tape all over the top of the fenders.

It looks like it was repainted at some point so I’m not really afraid of messing up anything original when I eventually try to scrub the masking tape glue off. But the paint job is good enough for who it’s for (Me) and so I wanted to know if anyone here has a method or spray that works good on getting glue off paint...if there is such a thing.

Any help is very much appreciated!!

Thanks, Vinnie

[Vicente Aceves]

Here’s the interior stuff.

[Vicente Aceves]

This is the tattooed part...

Red spray paint and black marker

If anyone has a trick for getting permanent marker off paint let me know.

Thanks again!!

[chrismoore701]

googone

[Peter S]

WD-40 does a pretty good job of dissolving glue. It should also work on the magic marker.

[Redneck Rydes]

WD40 works great you could also try a pinstripe removel tool attachs to your drill and slowly will remove glue and gick

[Vicente Aceves]

I have WD-40. I’ll give that a try first. Thanks guys!

[Dead Parrot]

Rubbing alcohol sometimes works well on carpet glue and tape.

A trick that sometimes works with markers is to get a fresh marker and go over the old marks then wipe everything off before it dries. A last resort as there is the obvious risk of making the problem worse if the new marks dry too fast.

[dagnabbitt]

I was gonna suggest googone, but someone already did.

I prefer pure mineral spirits to WD40, the smell goes away faster and leaves no residue.

[71gmcC15]

Carb cleaner will take the marker right off. Not shure on the glue though. I'd pull the dash pad so a guy could work on it easyer

[Vicente Aceves]

Thanks again. I’m going to try a small spot out of sight on the kick panel and a small spot on the ashtray lid and see what happens.


**This is a paint question but somewhat related**

What is the process to brighten up the paint on the truck? I’ve never done it and I don’t know if it’s rubbing compound or wax or something else?

It has overspray on the fender emblems so I don’t think it’s the original paint. I’d still like to preserve the paint that’s there. Thanks!

[Vicente Aceves]

Better pictures of the paint right now.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Vicente Aceves

Thanks again. I’m going to try a small spot out of sight on the kick panel and a small spot on the ashtray lid and see what happens.


**This is a paint question but somewhat related**

What is the process to brighten up the paint on the truck? I’ve never done it and I don’t know if it’s rubbing compound or wax or something else?

It has overspray on the fender emblems so I don’t think it’s the original paint. I’d still like to preserve the paint that’s there. Thanks!

Grab a pint of Penetrol at Home Depot or Lowes, it works great!

[AJC]

MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) works for most permanent markers. Xylene works really well for glues and markers, but I'm not sure how the paint would hold up. I know modern automotive paints are unaffected by it not sure about the older ones tho.

[TKCR]

AJC is correct, MEK. I worked in the auto factory in the Repair Dept. We used MEK for a lot of cleanups, almost anything. With that paint not looking like it has a clear coat, I would try it on a spot where your not going to care if it does something to the paint. It never did, but the cars had clear coat. I do know Home Depot carries it. I have a can of it myself.

[franken]

B12 will take most anything off but leave original paint.

[REDROCKER652002]

I've used Goof Off when I took the emblems off my bike and there was some glue residue left. It worked pretty well, and a quick wax on the paint after and you would never know anything was there. Not sure if it will work for you, but that is what I did.

[LT7A]

Vicente, that graffiti remover seems like a great product for what you need to do. If the pictures on the label can be trusted, it cleaned the labels on the mailboxes and left them intact as well as the paint. Might work to soften the tape adhesive too.

[Vicente Aceves]

I hadn’t thought about trying it on the tape and glue. It did work really well on that marker and the red paint, so yes I think I will give that a shot on the tape.

Thanks for the idea.

[LT7A]

I would use it on the black stuff on the hood and also try it on the adhesive residue in your interior. You asked about taking care of your paint, and I have a regimen I like to use that has made 38-year-old paint get smooth and look good. Not new, but good for its age. I gave a rundown on the #2 post in this thread:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=819383

It would be cool to see the results as you get the stuff cleaned off your paint and start to bring it back to a shine.

[Vicente Aceves]

I am going to give it a go at the tape tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes.

LT7A, I just read your post about your routine bringing the paint back. I’m going to order those items so I can give it a shot. I didn’t even know there’re was a thing called iron fallout remover. What does it do?

Also, how do I know for sure if the paint on my pickup is single stage?

Thanks!

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Vicente Aceves

I am going to give it a go at the tape tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes.

LT7A, I just read your post about your routine bringing the paint back. I’m going to order those items so I can give it a shot. I didn’t even know there’re was a thing called iron fallout remover. What does it do?

Also, how do I know for sure if the paint on my pickup is single stage?

Thanks!

If you have some sort of cleaner wax or compound, or even a mild solvent, pick a place on the exterior body like under the tailgate where you can rub it and it's not easily seen. And if a little bit of color comes off on your cloth, then you have single stage. If it was a clear coat, you'd be rubbing on the clear coat - no color transferring to the cloth. Iron fallout remover dissolves iron particles that get lodged in the paint. I originally thought it was just an effort to market yet another detailing product. But I watched how it worked on YouTube and when I got it, I could see a change in the paint just by using that product - the paint got a little "clearer" and more vibrant. I recommend Adam's for iron fallout. Most cost-effective. I also agitate it with a soft bristle brush before rinsing. Let me know if you want specifics on the other products.

[SCOTI]

One thing that was not mentioned & should be considered: What is your plan once the material & glue residue is removed?

If your plan is to paint or dye anything, don't use WD40 or oil based cleaners to dissolve the adhesive. They will wreak havoc if re-coloring interior pieces/areas where sprayed.

[LT7A]

If you are going to speed up the process of removing the red by using a solvent, I would try mineral spirits first. Then paint thinner. Then brake cleaner. If all else fails then acetone. I don't think you'll want to leave any of these sitting on your pain for very long. Acetone and the brake cleaner will take part of the paint you're trying to keep but shouldn't go all the way through if you're careful.

[Vicente Aceves]

There’s definitely no rush for me to get the red paint off. My main concern body wise is the rust on the bottom of the doors and cab.

This may be a no brainer for some of you, but I’d like to know if it makes more sense, money wise to find some clean doors instead of getting mine repaired.

The reason I’m asking is because I was reading a recent thread titled Rust! where someone commented that an outer cab corner repair is around $1,000 at a shop. And the price goes up if the inner needs repair.

Generally speaking, if that’s true, then would door rust repairs be more expensive than to just find some good originals?

On the bright side, the fenders are solid