Distributor

[Whamp48]

I bought a pig in a poke and EVERYTHING seems to be wrong with it. Currently looking for a OEM hei distributor in good shape for a 1972 402 big block. Runs, but not well. Read somewhere that hei needs a new wire run with 12V. Looked inside cap and plastic covering wires is all crumbly, so I don't even want to mess with this distributor I have. I want to start with something known to be good. Wouldn't reject an aftermarket one, but some of the posts about chinese made ones aren't very complmentary.

[68 P.O.S.]

There's a lot of HEI's out there to choose from and you’re gonna get just as many opinions. The big question is, what are you using the truck for? Normal daily driving type of stuff, or a lot of higher rpm use? For daily driving, OEM or lower level aftermarket is perfectly fine as you won’t need a fancy dancy $1000 MSD cream of the crop dizzy. With an OEM HEI, I don’t recommend getting one from a junkyard and just stabbing it in there without setting it up right. Reason being is all OEM HEIs originally came from the smog era. So the centerplate, weights, springs, and vacuum advance are all setup for an engine with low timing to assist with emissions. New GM HEIs, and a lot of aftermarket ones as well, are setup correctly for performance vs emissions applications nowadays. I personally have had good luck with the Accel 59107 HEI for 5 years now with no problems after fine tuning it to my engine. Here’s a couple of part numbers I have written down for GM HEIs to replace my Accel with when it needs replacing: 19212081, 93440806, 1104067. I hope this helps somewhat.

[Whamp48]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

There's a lot of HEI's out there to choose from and you’re gonna get just as many opinions. The big question is, what are you using the truck for? Normal daily driving type of stuff, or a lot of higher rpm use? For daily driving, OEM or lower level aftermarket is perfectly fine as you won’t need a fancy dancy $1000 MSD cream of the crop dizzy. With an OEM HEI, I don’t recommend getting one from a junkyard and just stabbing it in there without setting it up right. Reason being is all OEM HEIs originally came from the smog era. So the centerplate, weights, springs, and vacuum advance are all setup for an engine with low timing to assist with emissions. New GM HEIs, and a lot of aftermarket ones as well, are setup correctly for performance vs emissions applications nowadays. I personally have had good luck with the Accel 59107 HEI for 5 years now with no problems after fine tuning it to my engine. Here’s a couple of part numbers I have written down for GM HEIs to replace my Accel with when it needs replacing: 19212081, 93440806, 1104067. I hope this helps somewhat.

Thank you, and have a great day!

[bigmac73]

welcome to the world of old trucks, good news is you came to the right place for help and information.

If you got a stock motor, i would go down to NAPA (ask for a 74 to early 80's) chevy C-10) i think 74 was the year GM went to from points in the trucks and get a replacement dist. I know a lot of people are having good luck with the cheap ones that skip white is selling as well

or you can look at summit / jegs/ etc etc...

you need to run a good strong Gage wire from a keyed ignition hot terminal on the fuse block to the dist. and you will be good to go. easy as pie.

[AussieinNC]

Here is a link to what I have purchased on numerous occasions....all working well with zero issues...

BTW...All Chevy V8 small and big blocks use same distributor....however, later Vortec engines with roller cam systems need a different distributor drive gear.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...utor,1688.html

Notes !

You will need new plug wires suitable for male terminals on the HEI cap...

You must replace the feed wire that supplies power to the HEI distributor...must have 12V running at power terminal where it plugs in....old resistance wire feed supplies only 8.5 - 9 V running....

Make sure cam gears and chain etc aren't worn too badly....take cap off old distributor, hand turn engine backwards until rotor starts to move, mark balancer then hand turn engine normal direction until rotor just starts to move....if balancer has rotated more than one inch from previous position, timing chain and gears most likely worn....

Hope this helps...

[Whamp48]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Here is a link to what I have purchased on numerous occasions....all working well with zero issues...

BTW...All Chevy V8 small and big blocks use same distributor....however, later Vortec engines with roller cam systems need a different distributor drive gear.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...utor,1688.html

Notes !

You will need new plug wires suitable for male terminals on the HEI cap...

You must replace the feed wire that supplies power to the HEI distributor...must have 12V running at power terminal where it plugs in....old resistance wire feed supplies only 8.5 - 9 V running....

Make sure cam gears and chain etc aren't worn too badly....take cap off old distributor, hand turn engine backwards until rotor starts to move, mark balancer then hand turn engine normal direction until rotor just starts to move....if balancer has rotated more than one inch from previous position, timing chain and gears most likely worn....

Hope this helps...

Thank you, have a good day!

[Whamp48]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Here is a link to what I have purchased on numerous occasions....all working well with zero issues...

BTW...All Chevy V8 small and big blocks use same distributor....however, later Vortec engines with roller cam systems need a different distributor drive gear.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...utor,1688.html

Notes !

You will need new plug wires suitable for male terminals on the HEI cap...

You must replace the feed wire that supplies power to the HEI distributor...must have 12V running at power terminal where it plugs in....old resistance wire feed supplies only 8.5 - 9 V running....

Make sure cam gears and chain etc aren't worn too badly....take cap off old distributor, hand turn engine backwards until rotor starts to move, mark balancer then hand turn engine normal direction until rotor just starts to move....if balancer has rotated more than one inch from previous position, timing chain and gears most likely worn....

Hope this helps...

I appreciate the reply. The engine is supposed to be overhauled. It doesn't rattle, and when I first started it I didn't notice any smoke, but when I drove it down to my storage, it didn't shift up, was running rough and smoking. I thought bad modulator. So I got a new modulator and put it on, but it already had a new looking one on it. I didn't have a lot of time, so next time I'll see if the new modulator makes it shift. I'll do the timing chain check, replace the disributor, be sure I have 12V to the coil, and go from there. Thanks, and have a great day......Warren

[Whamp48]

[QUOTE=AussieinNC;8453006]Here is a link to what I have purchased on numerous occasions....all working well with zero issues...

BTW...All Chevy V8 small and big blocks use same distributor....however, later Vortec engines with roller cam systems need a different distributor drive gear.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...utor,1688.html

Notes !

You will need new plug wires suitable for male terminals on the HEI cap...

You must replace the feed wire that supplies power to the HEI distributor...must have 12V running at power terminal where it plugs in....old resistance wire feed supplies only 8.5 - 9 V running....

Make sure cam gears and chain etc aren't worn too badly....take cap off old distributor, hand turn engine backwards until rotor starts to move, mark balancer then hand turn engine normal direction until rotor just starts to move....if balancer has rotated more than one inch from previous position, timing chain and gears most likely worn....

Hope this helps...
[/QUOTE
Thanks, I ordered one.