Cheapest Rear Air Bag Set up? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Reumster · 09-10-2002, 01:00 AM

I want to put Air Bags on just the rear of my Blazer, Then upgrade later. The bags must have 1/2 threads, at least. I plan to just put air lines to under the rear bumper, with valve on each side, with air chuck fiting, and maybe pressure gauges. How much are decent, bags and a mounting kit?

Longhorn Man · 09-10-2002, 01:08 AM

Hmmmm, $29.99 Sears Air shocks?
LOL...just kidding!

justin · 09-10-2002, 05:51 AM

Check out the link below.
I got mine through air ride technologies but this place sells all kinds of brackets, bags, etc...
good luckhttp://justairbags.com

Frank_Zeller · 09-10-2002, 08:39 AM

I put air products air bags in my rear drop springs so I can still haul and tow stuff. The whole kit cost 65.00 delivered.

www.airliftcompany.com/indexAL.htm

Reumster · 09-10-2002, 12:28 PM

I'm looking for regular bags, with 3/4" port, and aluminum plates. I probably just go threw Air Ride. DO you have to weld the brackets on the chassis? And can you add C-notch later?

Slammed67 · 09-10-2002, 01:16 PM

IMO you really don't need brackets for the rear. I just mounted mine where the stock coil spring goes. Drill holes in the bottom of the frame for the air line and mounting studs. Pretty easy.

Just curious, but why do you want 3/4" ports??? To make it raise and lower faster? I'm running 3/8" line in mine and it is plenty fast.

Reumster · 09-10-2002, 01:27 PM

You have a Early C-notch right? What Part # bag/ size are you using? I want 3/4" ports to keep my options open. I'll most likely use 3/8" lines at first. You have any close-ups of your rear bag set-up?

Slammed67 · 09-10-2002, 01:33 PM

Ryan,

I've got the Classic Performance Products C-notch, 2500lb firestone air bags, and 3/8" line. With the tanks full (at about 140psi) and without the bed, the back end jump up in less than a second! It'll slow down once the bed is on, but it'll still be quick. 3/4" port bags probably don't cost much more than 3/8" bags anyway, so I guess you might as well get the bigger ones. I'll send you some pics of mine this evening.

Oh, I sent you that GMC park lamp housing/lens. You should get it by Friday or Monday at the latest.

jay-dawg · 09-10-2002, 02:30 PM

sup slammed,
I'm just posting cuz I want email notification if there are any posts.

is there a difference between the ECE and the CPP panhard bar relocators? I know people had trouble with both. I just want to know which one will be the easiest to modify.

jay

justin · 09-10-2002, 02:40 PM

yea slammed, I guess your right about not needing brackets for the rear, I never thought about that.
I am running measelly little 1/4 inch line on mine and it even rises sufficiently. The guys at Air Ride talked me into buying two, three gallon air tanks, but I have just one hooked up now and it raises both the front and the rear of the truck fine before the air runs out.

Slammed67 · 09-10-2002, 06:55 PM

Jay: I'm not sure how the CPP panhard bar attaches so I can't explain the differences. If you go with the ECE bar and a CPP c-notch, you'll need to modify where the bar attaches to the passenger side trailing arm. There is an interference problem with the two.

Justin: I originally bought 1 3-gallon tank and one compressor, but it didn't seem like it'd be enough. So now I have 2 of each. With one tank you'll probably not get more than one rise out of the tank before it has to refill.

justin · 09-10-2002, 08:09 PM

Exactly, after I raise the truck, the compressor kicks on and refills the tank. I suppose I will eventually add the second tank when my bed is complete.

jay-dawg · 09-10-2002, 10:15 PM

ok...here's the info I got from the cpp website regarding the track bar...looks like it hooks up to the stock location on the pumpkin therefore will not interfere. Please correct me if I am wrong. Witht he ECE, the rod is extended to the other trailing arm as slammed has indicated.

Quote:

This piece is for the rear of a truck that has been lowered to the extent where the factory track bar no longer fits. Our adjustable unit will adjust to the correct length, to improve your trucks handling ability and take full advantage of your lowered center of gravity. Bars come with polyurethane bushings and are gold cad plated. Available 24 inches long or 27 inches long. Mounting hardware and bushings are also available separately.

jay

jay-dawg · 09-17-2002, 10:19 PM

just a little follow up on this.

I took out my rear coils and shocks over the weekend and the bed now rests on top of the axle via the rubber bumpstops. I can see now that the CPP will not work because the angle of the track bar will be too far. Instead of the bar being higher on the driver side, it will be lower when it is lowered that far. I see that the ECE way is the only way to go unless you go custom of course.

jay

NSANE68!!! · 09-17-2002, 10:31 PM

GOT Co2!!! GOT NITROGEN!!! GOT HELIUM!!!

They all work great! I use the Co2 it seems to last longer.
Helium is for the hoppers, it atomizes faster, so they say. I just don't like the ANNOYING buzz of the compressors.
But I must admit I do have one as a back up in case I run out of Co2 away from my house.
The new V-belt driven compressors are INTRUGING, 6 gal tank in 2min, THAT'S IMPRESSIVE!!

JMO

nosto · 09-18-2002, 11:49 AM

Just my $0.02:
I'm running 1/2" lines through 10mm (~3/8") SMC valves and a single 5gal 4 port tank using nitrogen. Now that I finally got the switches installed in the cab, I can see exactly how this setup works. I ran the tank up to about 120lbs and hit the front switch.

Yup, it's fast!

My only complaint is that I'm using up the nitrogen at an alarming rate. Went through about 500lbs just testing. I kinda hoped it would last a lot longer that that. But giving the neighborhood kids 'rides' and trying to flip them off the rear frame does use up that gas!

NSANE68: Hmmm, a spare electric compressor, that sounds like a good idea. I'd hate to get caught with an empty bottle out on the road. Sure beats carrying a bicycle pump!

BTW: I didn't have any problem with the adjustable panhard bar supplied in the EasyStreet kit.

Can't wait to get the truck on the road; just cranked the engine over for the first time since last October. Started right up, but boy those Flowmaster 40s seem louder than they did last year!!

NSANE68!!! · 09-18-2002, 06:44 PM

Try Co2 on your next fill, seems to last longer.

Ed ke6bnl · 09-19-2002, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by NSANE68!!!
Try Co2 on your next fill, seems to last longer.

Co2 is in liquid form and I believe the same bottle witll last nearly 12 times as long. The only proablem is that the bottle has to be upright so you do not pump out liquid and if large volume of gas is use it can carry some liquid and the regulator can freeze up. Good luck Ed ke6bnl

NSANE68!!! · 09-20-2002, 02:23 PM

Good point. I keep mine tilted up at an angle, and run it through a spin tank giving it more time to go from liquid to gases.

ChevLoRay · 09-20-2002, 02:39 PM

....on the track bars (panhard rods)...Early Classic Enterprises is ADJUSTABLE, while CPP is fixed, at either of two lengths (24 or 27-inches). I lowered mine 4-inches, in the rear. The shock mounting had to be changed to restore the shock angle to a workable one, as well as the use of the adjustable rod to center the rear axle under the frame. You should find that as you change the height of the body, in relation to the frame, that the rear axle centering will change. Based on the use that I have seen people make of the air bag system, you probably won't have a "one position adjustment" that will work. You'll have to decide where it will be when you are driving, and let that be your guide as to where to adjust the panhard rod. Above or below that setting, and your rear axle will be more to one side, or the other. How much? Don't know. My lowering was done with springs and spindles. I'd like to have air bags in the rear, just to be able to "play" with the height. But, since I pull a utility trailer from time-to-time, I don't need that adjustability. Besides, I can still get nose-bleed from getting into my Tundra or the school bus I drive. Getting into my lowered (3.5/4-inch) '69, reminds me of my old TR-3, except my knuckles don't drag the pavement when I reach out of the window (after driving the bus, doncha know).

09-10-2002, 01:00 AM	#1
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Cheapest Rear Air Bag Set up? I want to put Air Bags on just the rear of my Blazer, Then upgrade later. The bags must have 1/2 threads, at least. I plan to just put air lines to under the rear bumper, with valve on each side, with air chuck fiting, and maybe pressure gauges. How much are decent, bags and a mounting kit? __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

09-10-2002, 05:51 AM	#3
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 285	Check out the link below. I got mine through air ride technologies but this place sells all kinds of brackets, bags, etc... good luckhttp://justairbags.com __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

09-10-2002, 08:39 AM	#4
Frank_Zeller Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 796	I put air products air bags in my rear drop springs so I can still haul and tow stuff. The whole kit cost 65.00 delivered. www.airliftcompany.com/indexAL.htm __________________ 69 SWB C/10 5-6 drop 700R4 69 Firebird Convert 455 4 spd 70 Torino GT Convert Austin-Texas

09-10-2002, 12:28 PM	#5
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	I'm looking for regular bags, with 3/4" port, and aluminum plates. I probably just go threw Air Ride. DO you have to weld the brackets on the chassis? And can you add C-notch later? __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

09-10-2002, 01:16 PM	#6
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	IMO you really don't need brackets for the rear. I just mounted mine where the stock coil spring goes. Drill holes in the bottom of the frame for the air line and mounting studs. Pretty easy. Just curious, but why do you want 3/4" ports??? To make it raise and lower faster? I'm running 3/8" line in mine and it is plenty fast. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra Last edited by Slammed67; 09-10-2002 at 01:20 PM.

09-10-2002, 01:08 AM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Hmmmm, $29.99 Sears Air shocks? LOL...just kidding!

09-10-2002, 01:27 PM	#7
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Slammed 67 You have a Early C-notch right? What Part # bag/ size are you using? I want 3/4" ports to keep my options open. I'll most likely use 3/8" lines at first. You have any close-ups of your rear bag set-up? __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

09-10-2002, 01:33 PM	#8
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Ryan, I've got the Classic Performance Products C-notch, 2500lb firestone air bags, and 3/8" line. With the tanks full (at about 140psi) and without the bed, the back end jump up in less than a second! It'll slow down once the bed is on, but it'll still be quick. 3/4" port bags probably don't cost much more than 3/8" bags anyway, so I guess you might as well get the bigger ones. I'll send you some pics of mine this evening. Oh, I sent you that GMC park lamp housing/lens. You should get it by Friday or Monday at the latest. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

09-10-2002, 02:30 PM	#9
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	sup slammed, I'm just posting cuz I want email notification if there are any posts. is there a difference between the ECE and the CPP panhard bar relocators? I know people had trouble with both. I just want to know which one will be the easiest to modify. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

09-10-2002, 02:40 PM	#10
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 285	yea slammed, I guess your right about not needing brackets for the rear, I never thought about that. I am running measelly little 1/4 inch line on mine and it even rises sufficiently. The guys at Air Ride talked me into buying two, three gallon air tanks, but I have just one hooked up now and it raises both the front and the rear of the truck fine before the air runs out. __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

09-10-2002, 06:55 PM	#11
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Jay: I'm not sure how the CPP panhard bar attaches so I can't explain the differences. If you go with the ECE bar and a CPP c-notch, you'll need to modify where the bar attaches to the passenger side trailing arm. There is an interference problem with the two. Justin: I originally bought 1 3-gallon tank and one compressor, but it didn't seem like it'd be enough. So now I have 2 of each. With one tank you'll probably not get more than one rise out of the tank before it has to refill. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

09-10-2002, 08:09 PM	#12
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 285	Exactly, after I raise the truck, the compressor kicks on and refills the tank. I suppose I will eventually add the second tank when my bed is complete. __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

09-17-2002, 10:19 PM	#14
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	just a little follow up on this. I took out my rear coils and shocks over the weekend and the bed now rests on top of the axle via the rubber bumpstops. I can see now that the CPP will not work because the angle of the track bar will be too far. Instead of the bar being higher on the driver side, it will be lower when it is lowered that far. I see that the ECE way is the only way to go unless you go custom of course. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

09-17-2002, 10:31 PM	#15
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	GOT Co2!!! GOT NITROGEN!!! GOT HELIUM!!! They all work great! I use the Co2 it seems to last longer. Helium is for the hoppers, it atomizes faster, so they say. I just don't like the ANNOYING buzz of the compressors. But I must admit I do have one as a back up in case I run out of Co2 away from my house. The new V-belt driven compressors are INTRUGING, 6 gal tank in 2min, THAT'S IMPRESSIVE!! JMO __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

09-18-2002, 11:49 AM	#16
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Just my $0.02: I'm running 1/2" lines through 10mm (~3/8") SMC valves and a single 5gal 4 port tank using nitrogen. Now that I finally got the switches installed in the cab, I can see exactly how this setup works. I ran the tank up to about 120lbs and hit the front switch. Yup, it's fast! My only complaint is that I'm using up the nitrogen at an alarming rate. Went through about 500lbs just testing. I kinda hoped it would last a lot longer that that. But giving the neighborhood kids 'rides' and trying to flip them off the rear frame does use up that gas! NSANE68: Hmmm, a spare electric compressor, that sounds like a good idea. I'd hate to get caught with an empty bottle out on the road. Sure beats carrying a bicycle pump! BTW: I didn't have any problem with the adjustable panhard bar supplied in the EasyStreet kit. Can't wait to get the truck on the road; just cranked the engine over for the first time since last October. Started right up, but boy those Flowmaster 40s seem louder than they did last year!! Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!



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09-18-2002, 06:44 PM	#17
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	Try Co2 on your next fill, seems to last longer. __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

09-20-2002, 02:23 PM	#19
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	Good point. I keep mine tilted up at an angle, and run it through a spin tank giving it more time to go from liquid to gases. __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

09-20-2002, 02:39 PM	#20
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	....on the track bars (panhard rods)...Early Classic Enterprises is ADJUSTABLE, while CPP is fixed, at either of two lengths (24 or 27-inches). I lowered mine 4-inches, in the rear. The shock mounting had to be changed to restore the shock angle to a workable one, as well as the use of the adjustable rod to center the rear axle under the frame. You should find that as you change the height of the body, in relation to the frame, that the rear axle centering will change. Based on the use that I have seen people make of the air bag system, you probably won't have a "one position adjustment" that will work. You'll have to decide where it will be when you are driving, and let that be your guide as to where to adjust the panhard rod. Above or below that setting, and your rear axle will be more to one side, or the other. How much? Don't know. My lowering was done with springs and spindles. I'd like to have air bags in the rear, just to be able to "play" with the height. But, since I pull a utility trailer from time-to-time, I don't need that adjustability. Besides, I can still get nose-bleed from getting into my Tundra or the school bus I drive. Getting into my lowered (3.5/4-inch) '69, reminds me of my old TR-3, except my knuckles don't drag the pavement when I reach out of the window (after driving the bus, doncha know). __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

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