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10-22-2011, 02:14 AM | #1 |
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1968 redo
Here is my 1968 230 or 250 6 cyl, 3 speed short shaft trans, 373 posi rearend. Grandpa signed her over to me in 93. He bought her brand new. Engine and trans are exchanges, I broke timing gear in 93 and found out head was cracked, I have a 350 that I rebuilt 13 years ago that has been sitting covered up on an engine stand and thought it would be worth the upgrade. The truck sat in the woods since 95 with a camper shell, thanks for that the bed is in nice shape. Dad, 4th generation Max, and I hauled her in to dads shop 2 weeks ago. Looking at converting to auto, ps and pb as well. I will try some photos.
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10-22-2011, 03:23 AM | #2 |
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Re: 1968 redo
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10-22-2011, 03:27 AM | #3 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Got her loaded up
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10-22-2011, 03:33 AM | #4 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Cleaned the sap off a spot on the front of fender and buffed it out to see if the original paint would shine. I was surprised
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10-22-2011, 03:42 AM | #5 |
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Re: 1968 redo
We got the camper shell off, and pushed it out to pressure wash. The original title is in the glove box from 1968, Not a single chip in any of the glass. Here is what she looks like.
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10-22-2011, 03:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: 1968 redo
All the body rust in photos is minimal. The only bad rust was passenger fender well, passenger rocker, and bottom passenger door. Thats Dad in the pics. He and I fixed up a 1967 short wheel base chevy custom cab when I was in high school, my little brother and I drove the wheels off of it. It originally had a 283 with power glide and dad eventually dropped a 327 and turbo 350 in it that came out of a 69 caprice. Here is the bummer, we had a perfect set of buddy bucket seats we took out of it replacing them with a seat out of a buick electra 225. They were electric with an armwrest. We thought that was pretty slick back then. We wish we knew where that buddy bucket set ended up.
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10-23-2011, 03:48 PM | #7 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Very cool! Nice truck and cool story. Yes, the firewall writing looks factory. On the fenderwell there is a piece that's like angle iron that bolts there. It goes around the steering shaft.
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10-27-2011, 05:37 AM | #8 |
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Re: 1968 redo
There is a bracket on top of the inner fender in the above picture. Dad said it was meant to hold and extra bottle of washer fluid. Is this factory?
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10-27-2011, 05:49 AM | #9 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Amazing how the old chevy paint just shines right up..
J.
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1972 Custom Deluxe Highlander C20 1971 Javelin SST New Project 1971 Demon 340 1969 SS El Camino 1968 SS RS 396 Camaro 1967 Barracuda Formula S 1965 140/4sp Corvair Monza Convertible Sorry, but I don't do Fords. |
10-27-2011, 06:28 AM | #10 |
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Re: 1968 redo
I know, I wish it did not have so many and scratches or I would just buff it out. Talk about original.
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10-27-2011, 11:49 AM | #11 |
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Re: 1968 redo
very nice im building a 68 8' steper red on red just put in a 400 w/vortec heads and realized newer exaust wont work with older mtr mounts
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10-27-2011, 12:08 PM | #12 |
67cheby
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Re: 1968 redo
nice truck, cant wait to see what you do with it !!
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10-29-2011, 05:10 AM | #13 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Thanks. That is good information on the vortec. I am changing to a 350, I don't see any value in the straight 6 since it is not original.
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09-02-2012, 04:10 AM | #14 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Got cowl, grill and hood painted original color. Inner fenders painted. I need a passenger front fender!!!
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09-02-2012, 04:03 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1968 redo
this truck is so beautfiul
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09-02-2012, 10:33 PM | #16 |
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Re: 1968 redo
man thats a great story and the trucks looks super
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11-10-2014, 08:24 PM | #17 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Front cap is painted and hanging on wall except for right front fender which I had to order repro. It will be done next. I have a set of buddy buckets that needs redone, box under middle seat is rusty. Have some rust down in firewall/vent area on driver side, got to figure out how to get to that. I have decided to leave the 250 3 speed on column. I'll be pulling motor soon, add ps, maybe pb, and hei.
I'll get some more photos up soon.
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07-19-2024, 02:06 AM | #18 |
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Re: 1968 redo
It has been almost 10 years since my last post. I never got around to pulling the motor, but the truck is safe in my Daddy's shop. We started pulling some more stuff off and noticed the drip rail on roof is almost rusted away under the paint. I kind of lost interest because I don't know what to do. All of it will need replaced or fabricated. We will start on the straight six soon. I found a head for it. We are going to pull it and do a complete teardown. I have removed the gas tank and it was in such bad shape on the inside, I ordered a new one. I am attempting to keep it as original as possible. I have new rockers and cab corners. We will get to those later. Some rust down in the side floor vents as well. I have seen some guys brace the door opening diagonally and across the cab when they replace the cab corners. Is this necessary? Any tips are appreciated.
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07-19-2024, 08:10 AM | #19 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Welcome back.
The roof area is a common rot spot. At least there are patches for it now vs 2011. If you are new to welding sheet metal then start with the floor/rocker repairs. It's all hidden and will be a great place to learn. If it's not pretty it won't be seen. I braced my door opening when I did my rockers and corners. It can't hurt. There's a fair amount of structure in that area.
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09-01-2024, 11:27 PM | #20 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Appreciate that advice. We replaced front bearings. We ground the rivets off the drums. Brakes are mostly done, but found a clogged line in the mid rear and had to order that part. Gonna put it on tomorrow, then put the wheels back on so we can push it outside and pressure wash 46 years of mud and gunk on the front end.
On another note I have verified that the 250 is the original motor and it has been rebuilt one time. cylinders are 60 over. I I am minus a head since the one I had was cracked like Humpty Dumpty, my uncle found one that would fit but it does not. It’s for a 261, and is apparently in demand for some 50s model engines. I’m gonna be looking for a cylinder head after I verify this engine is indeed a good one. If it’s not, I have other options. But, like I said, I want to keep it the way grandpa had it, within reason$$$$. Brake line and power wash tomorrow!!! Stay tuned, I’ll try to post some pics of the parts we painted on the front cap, to keep this thread interesting. P.S. May not be original, but a "numbers matching" 250.
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Joey Last edited by Dude68; 09-11-2024 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Additional Info |
09-02-2024, 03:58 PM | #21 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Brakes and bearings complete. Put wheels back on so we can pressure wash the front. Got some pics today, will post soon.
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09-19-2024, 11:45 PM | #22 |
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Re: 1968 redo
That's an awfully nice truck, will be following along. I am partial to baby blue 68s. Keep reporting back to us ok?
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07-19-2024, 09:14 AM | #23 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Subscribed!
Cool truck Can’t wait to see more pictures
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Please help my sister in law with her battle with cancer https://gofund.me/902f6fce Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
07-22-2024, 03:39 PM | #24 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Great project, I will be following for sure!
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08-27-2024, 09:18 PM | #25 |
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Re: 1968 redo
Well it’s been 13 years and I am picking up where I left off. Put the truck on jack stands, pulled the brake drums and master cylinder. Got new brake shoes and cylinder on right rear today. Gonna do left rear tomorrow as well as replacing front wheel bearings, races and seals. Master cylinder will be in tomorrow with the front wheel cylinders and shoes. I was planning on taking it down to the frame, but it’s in such good shape I have reconsidered. By the way, i had to pull the hubs off the front because they are riveted to the brake drum. Does this indicate that my Grandpa never had to replace brakes on this truck? 71,000 original miles.
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