clutch linkage coming up short...help!

[ozman3803]

Ok, 70 chevy 2whl with no eng. but was orig. inline 6 and 4spd manual. Dropping in 350 but main concern is the clutch linkage. Finally found what I needed out of a 70 chev 3/4Ton 2 whl with v8. Pulled everything from clutch pedal to shift fork. Put it in my truck and it's coming up about 3 inches short from clutch fork. What is the problem? Looks like I could move the bell housing but not sure if I want to do that, then I'llll be looking for a driveshaft. Any Ideas? Also same bellhousing should work with v8 right?

[mclairmo]

Can you buy some threaded rod and make up the difference? If not, break out the welder or find another donor truck and strip out what you need.

['68OrangeSunshine]

The L6 uses a different Z-bar than the V8s.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Are you sure the T.O. brg. matches the clutch?

[Jim_PA]

Did you put the 8 in the same motor mount position as the 6?

[ozman3803]

Thanks for the input everyone. It's a v8 clutch linkage setup that i put in. The tranny shouldn't be in a different position if it was a L6 would it?

[71tahoe]

Unless you moved the crossmember for the bellhousing all the I6 hardware will work. At least for a 250 it will.

[ozman3803]

the crossmember had rivet type bolts in it so it don't look like it was ever moved. It looks like it has predrilled holes that could look like it could be moved up. Don't really want to move which of course would change drive shaft length.

[prostreetC-10]

All I know is when I went from my L6 to my BBC, I had to cut and slide the frame mount for the Z bar down. I also had to really lengthen my rod to the clutch fork too. It's because those granny 4 speeds are so short. Wait a minute.....are changing trannys too or just the motor?? I might not have read the thread correctly.

[ozman3803]

motor only will be changed with small block. What could I use to lengthen pushrod. I know ready rod is going to be to weak. Any ideas or has anybody else ran into this?

[71tahoe]

If the tranny doesn't move and the z-bar bracket on the frame doesn't move and the cab doesn't move, just use the i6 z-bar and screw in the pivot ball to the v8 block. There should be a tapped hole directly across from the frame bracket. If you're running headers you may need to put an offset in the lower part of the z-bar.

['68OrangeSunshine]

When I went with a Centerforce II clutch on the SM465 behind a V8 350 in my '71 GMC Jimmy [K/5], for some reason -- I think it was easier than pulling the whole engine,transfer case and transmission again just to put in a different throw-out bearing -- I had a welder attach a threaded section of a '73-later GM clutch pushrod onto my old '71 pushrod. He used a 3" section of 9mm submachinegun barrel, he claimed, for a splice over the butt weld of the 2 rods.
I also joggled the "ears" of the Z-bar to clear the headers.
Still working 10 years later.