A/C questions

[tphsmith]

I have parts from 3 A/C units. and well I'm trying to get one good complete unit. so my questions are, keep in mind my truck is months out from reassembly so I have no way to put these parts on and try them. but is there a way to know if the Evaporator and the tubes to be in good condition? and the same question for the accumulator? and the hose assembly? because I'm at a point where I am assembling all this together for when the truck comes out of the body shop she should be all ready for assembly. and I dont want to put time into these parts if they wont be good because of maybe the complete system has been apart for so long they go bad or something.

thanks for your input

[72CSTC5]

Definitely replace the accumulator, check the evaporator and see if there is evidence of any oil stains that have collected alot of grease and debris that would indicate a leak. Blow out your lines and clean them up and again check for oil build up.

[tphsmith]

thanks 72 CSTC5 for the feed back

[Tynee]

I wonder if a radiator shop could pressure test the condensor and evaporator for you? I know that I once filled a bucket with water, submerged a heater core, plugged the outlet with my thumb and blew in the inlet with my mouth. It worked great for finding a leak in that, but A/C parts have to hold more pressure than cooling system stuff.

[Goose]

Did your truck have a stock a/c package to start with? I have messed with a number of different old parts and combinations- incuding an underdash unit (salvaged from a '60 Impala) run by a Tecumseh compressor. You can make anything work for awhile. I finally put in an aftermarket a/c system designed for these trucks. Works fine, except I'm still using R-12 - you won't want to do that! I also thought I had done a pretty good job of insulating the cab. You will want to do this! However, I'm still losing too much cool air somewhere. Windows are tinted as well. I guess I'm saying - save up for a new system from condensor to evaporator, be sure you have good cooling air through the condensor (I have two aux. pusher fans in addition to my engine driven puller). It may save you money in the long run and be much more dependable when it's 100 deg. F like it was here today. Good luck.

[mrein3]

Buy a new set of the rubber and aluminuim hoses that bolt on to the back of the compressor. New ones are compatible with R134a.
Flush your evaporator and condensor after you look for evidence of leaks.
Flush your compressor. This is accomplished by turning it on end until all the oils leaks out. Then add 6 ounces of R134a compatible oil in the compressor. Turn the compressor a few times to work that oil around. Then drain it again.

Adjust your POA valve to run on R134a. Click over to:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...AR_MSGDBTABLE=
to learn how to adjust your POA.

Now all your used parts are ready to go. Buy a receiver/dryer when you are ready to evacuate the system.

When you are ready, assemble everything with new o-rings that are compatible with R134a. Evacuate the system. Suck it down to -30psi and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. If it holds for 30 minutes you know you have no leaks and you have boiled out all the water in the system.

Fill it with R134a. Start with 90% of the factory charge minus .25 pounds. Add more R134a if necessary.