Project 1971 C10 SWB sidestep

The C10 has arrived.



First, it is prepared for inspection for registration. I want to adjust the truck on a number of points. The rims are replaced by 15 inch steel rims with white letter tires. the truck is lowered 4 "at the front and 6" at the rear. Idea rims and tires:



There are no inner fenders, which will be purchased, as well as a set of mirrors and some repair parts and a new set of cab mounts for the bottom of the cabin. Furthermore, the C10 is completely to my liking. I will leave Interior as it is for the time being, I like this coffee sack interior. Because it often rains here, the truck is also protected against moisture and rust.



The truck is equipped with a 355ci, 556 lift Voodoo cam and 4 barrel 759 quick fuel double pumper with a TH350 turbo.

I have another question about the accelerator. that has disappeared, only the rod is still there. can I click on a pedal or do I have to order more parts for attaching a pedal



Ron

[Boog]

Very nice truck Ron. I approve of the replacement wheel choice too.

[67C10Step]

Nice! You can get an accelerator pedal many places. Just snapped one in my 67, along with replacement rubber for the brake pedal. Both are cheap additions.

I like the wheel choice and I have actually been considering having my rally wheels done in black when I get them powder coated.

Wheel wells are a must if you are really going to drive it much. Otherwise you just sling junk everywhere it doesn't need to be.

Keep the photos coming. I'm sort of digging the interior as well. Certainly not something you need to jump on first.

[68Stepbed]

I love the truck!!

A couple options for the accelerator pedal: Under the carpet, there should be two balls or nubs located underneath the arm hanging from the firewall. Those balls are how the pedal attaches to the floor, then only rests against that arm.

Here's a link for the pedal. https://www.brotherstrucks.com/1967-...tinfo/APP0067/

Another option is to replace the entire setup with one of these Lokar kits. Just don't forget the cable assembly while ordering.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...del/c10-pickup

Thanks for de compliments !

I assume this are the balls or nubs:



I’lll order two of them, thanks.

Ron

[Boog]

That's them.

[Steeveedee]

I'm digging that truck! But I thought that the '71s had the other style gas pedal that "floated" and didn't mount to the floor. Or is that a '72-up thing?

[Southpaw69]

Very cool truck, enjoy that thing!

[lolife99]

The grill and hood make it appear to be a 69-70 model. That would match the gas pedal setup it currently has. No emergency brake pedal or arm (67-68 style) to help decode the cab. Rear view mirror is what year? And no side markers on the front or rear fenders.
Maybe 71 was a typo.

The papers state that it is a 1971 truck. The grille and hood are from a 1969-1970 model. This truck has no side markers and I think it is far from original. I knew that when I bought it, I don't care about originality. I have searched here on the forum for the legenda of the chassis numbers, but there are several of them in circulation. For the time being, it should be a 1971 according to the chassis number. That starts with CE241F ...... but correct me if I'm wrong! I will take a closer look at the difference between 1969-1970 and 1971-1972 models. The cabin carpet will go out for floor repairs anyway, then I'll see if I can screw studs into the bottom. I still have to get to know the truck, but that is also part of the fun, besides driving. I also have a 1968 Alfa Romeo and my experience is that, if you have a classic Alfa Romeo that drives .......... all other car brands are not so bad ......

If the truck is registered I can drive it and at home on a 4 column lift bridge. if that fits ............ garage is limited, that's why I wanted a shortbed too.

Ron

Long time No News, COVID isn’t helping to get parts from the USA to the Netherlands....... But the project is getting somewere now.

the bottom of the cab needed some welding, I knew that. it was a surprise that there were no more body mounts at the front and rear. the cabin was without rubbers on the chassis. there were no nuts on the bolts at the front and at the back the cabin was skewed because round steel rings were placed between the chassis and the cabin that gave 1.5 inch of play. therefore the supports were also bent. everything has now been made perfect, the cabin is straight, I only have to hang the body panels neatly. I only got two rear wheels (9J) from the USA, the front wheels (8J) were still in backorder after three months. fortunately the same rims found in Europe. I didn't want a show queen, he's starting to be the way I wanted him!





Keep you posted.

Ron

[Carl Spangler]

Thanks for the pics and story! VERY cool! Do you know any of the history of this vehicle. i.e. How did it end up in the Netherlands, etc.

Can you add this vehicle to the 'build date' thread? Does it still have the blue (build date/SN) door decal?

thanks again

I don't know the history of the truck. According to the chassis number it should be a 1971 C10. There isn't much original left, and I see a 1970s grille, narrow rear axle, so it could just be a 1970s truck. I imported it myself from the USA, I bought it in Florida. That is always a gamble, but in Europe there is simply little choice when it comes to these types of trucks. Of course you will run into surprises, the rear axle would turn out to be the narrow version, equipped with thru axles from a 1971-1972 C10. So half of the drums and the rear brake shoes were worn out. The wiring was renewed and the fuse box was in place of the handbrake pedal in the cabin. all the handbrake parts in the drum had disappeared as well as the handbrake pedal. He must be inspected in January for the license plate registration here in the Netherlands and I must have a handbrake. it is now technically in order, it just takes a while before the parts are there. I also found quite a few parts through ebay. Only a $ 50 handbrake pedal on ebay ends up being $ 120 through taxes if I have it in my hands. The truck did not cost the top prize and I enjoy working on the truck myself. where should the construction date decal be? the truck was repainted in the USA, I fear it disappeared!

gr Ron

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by RSR-R

I don't know the history of the truck. According to the chassis number it should be a 1971 C10. There isn't much original left, and I see a 1970s grille, narrow rear axle, so it could just be a 1970s truck. I imported it myself from the USA, I bought it in Florida. That is always a gamble, but in Europe there is simply little choice when it comes to these types of trucks. Of course you will run into surprises, the rear axle would turn out to be the narrow version, equipped with thru axles from a 1971-1972 C10. So half of the drums and the rear brake shoes were worn out. The wiring was renewed and the fuse box was in place of the handbrake pedal in the cabin. all the handbrake parts in the drum had disappeared as well as the handbrake pedal. He must be inspected in January for the license plate registration here in the Netherlands and I must have a handbrake. it is now technically in order, it just takes a while before the parts are there. I also found quite a few parts through ebay. Only a $ 50 handbrake pedal on ebay ends up being $ 120 through taxes if I have it in my hands. The truck did not cost the top prize and I enjoy working on the truck myself. where should the construction date decal be? the truck was repainted in the USA, I fear it disappeared!

gr Ron

Thanks for the additional info. Looks cool and has an interesting heritage.

The build decal (date) would be on the drivers door near the lock/latch.

This is the master thread on identifying when these trucks were built.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=815033

The second post in this big thread has the latest update for the VIN/date build. You can compare your VIN # to the ones in that post to get a a good idea what month your truck was built. It's fairly common for this decal to be missing or damaged beyond recognition. The one in my 71 SWB stepside is damaged with the date part gone.

Is there an SPID sheet inside the glove box?

my steering column is on its end. Don't like that he sometimes falls out of the parking. I am looking for a good used automatic steering column. may be shorter than the current one, some more space is welcome. It must be shipped to the Netherlands. Restoring my current one is not an option in the Netherlands.

Ron

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by RSR-R

my steering column is on its end. Don't like that he sometimes falls out of the parking. I am looking for a good used automatic steering column. may be shorter than the current one, some more space is welcome. It must be shipped to the Netherlands. Restoring my current one is not an option in the Netherlands.

Ron

Hi Ron,

Welcome to the truck board.

Before you replace the column try this:

With the lever in the Park position spray some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other type of penetrating oil into the steering column, where the shift lever goes in. Don't be afraid to give it a good dousing. After you spray it pull the shift lever up toward you and push it back down toward the dash. It should move up and down a couple of inches. Do this 4 or 5 times. This will help free up any sticking in the shift lever tube. The reason the shift lever moves up and down is because it should be pulled back towards you to shift it into and out of the park position. It wouldn't hurt to spray the tube and levers under the hood too.

LockDoc

Tx, will give it a try !

Ron