Tbi swap build thread

[cjracing15]

I am going to atemped my first build thread for who ever wanted to swap in a 87-94 STOCK TBI SYSTEM. I am going to use the intake (& all the hardware),throtlebody,stock wiring harness and all the other things you need to do this swap. I am going to go pin by pin, wire by wire ,and tell you where everything goes.
I know this is a common swap now a days but when I started looking for info for this swap i had do go and find info from alot of deferant web sites. I would like for people that are intrested in doing this swap when they google "tbi swap" they come to this site (67-72chevytrucks.com). So here we go.

Here are some pics of my truck and motor.

The motor is a 90 model 350 tbi motor. I swaped this motor in last year and i used it because I had plans on doing this very swap then. The reason I did not do the tbi swap then was because this truck came stock with a 4.3 in it. I did not want to swap a deferent motor and try to swap the truck to tbi at the same time. So I rebuilt this motor and bouhgt a eldebrok carb intake for tbi heads and used a quadrajet replacement holley.

I will have some more pics tomarow so stay tuned.

[bigblazerboy]

i will be watchin this

[Patriot]

Originally Posted by bigblazerboy

i will be watchin this

Same here.

[kcblazer75]

here is the updated diagram and pic of my surge tank.

Keith

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by kcblazer75

here is the updated diagram and pic of my surge tank.

Keith

Keith

Very nice - it should work. My only concern is to protect fuel system components from damage - rocks, etc. BTW where did you source that tank - is it home brew??

//RF

[kcblazer75]

Originally Posted by rfmaster

Keith

Very nice - it should work. My only concern is to protect fuel system components from damage - rocks, etc. BTW where did you source that tank - is it home brew??

//RF

That's all right above my drive shaft tucked into the corner of the frame and bed. I don't think a rock big enough to cause any damage would be able to get up there.

I got really lucky with the tank. I found it on my dads property. It is a high pressure tank from a very old refrigerator. I only had to add one port. I cleaned it out and pressure tested it for two weeks at 90 psi before deciding to use it.

Thanks again

Keith

[84 400]

good Idea for a TBI build. This should be a great resource for others

[D13]

I'll be following along for ideas on my TBI 250 conversion! What trans do you have? And do you have cruise with VSS like the 1990?

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by D13

I'll be following along for ideas on my TBI 250 conversion! What trans do you have? And do you have cruise with VSS like the 1990?

I have the stock 700 in it. I will probablly hook the cruise up later down the road but not this time. And I am going to use a vss sensor from jag that run.
Stay tuned.

[rfmaster]

Part numbers of interest
Part Description Part #
TBI ECM 1227747 BCC ASDU: 1227747
Heated O-Sensor 4-wire: 25312184; AFS75
TBI Overhall Kit: CK1081
Injectors (350) Orange Black: 17112493; 217-344; 5235206
Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS): 12146312; 25036979
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): 12116257; 17111787; 17111471
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 16137039; 2131545; 16017460; PS10076
Idle Air Control Valve (IAC): 17111460; 25527077; AC102
EGR Control Solenoid: 1997111?; EVS30; 17112193
VSS (from JTR): 2PRS
Knock Sensor (350): 10456288; SU154
Engine Spark Control Module (ESC): 16128261; 16131231

[68c10owner]

I`m watching too. I was to yank the carbed 305 from my truck and put a TBI 350 in it. Mine has dual tanks, does yours? would i need 2 fuel pumps or can I run 1 external pump?

[Damien]

It helps to have a wiring diagram for the donor vehicle. It will take about half a day to sort out and remove all the unneeded circuits. The harness on the newer style trucks comes through the fire wall on the passenger side near the heater box, so some of the wires may be too long or short for a factory appearing installation. Good luck. This should be helpful for a lot of people.

[cjracing15]

Ok here we go I got all the pins labeled today was able to take two pics before the camera batt's played out (got new ones tonite), will show the labeled harness tomarow. Here are the two I got off today. It's the engine after I striped all the top-end off. I am rather proud of how clean my rebuilt engine is after a year of daily driving (and a little off road stuff).

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by Damien

It helps to have a wiring diagram for the donor vehicle. It will take about half a day to sort out and remove all the unneeded circuits. The harness on the newer style trucks comes through the fire wall on the passenger side near the heater box, so some of the wires may be too long or short for a factory appearing installation. Good luck. This should be helpful for a lot of people.

The harness I am using came from a 87 truck (thanks beater c-10), I also had a 90 suburban I bought for parts and I have that harness also to save for anouther project. Anyway I will show everybody tomarow where the stock suburban harness came out of the truck. It is in the same location on this 86 truck because it had the esc distribitor from the factory. I am going to use this hole.( It's on the pass side also)

I looked at a 92 today and they would probably have a little extra wire if you use that harness but not so much that you could not make it look factory if you wanted to.

[cjracing15]

Ok here are all the pin outs and the color of the wires. My computer is the standard #1227747

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to power the fuel pump-relay.
A2- no wire
A3- no wire
A4- gry- to egr-relay. This is a ground for the ECM to control the EGR relay.
A5- brn/wht- service soon light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
A6- pink/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
A7- no wire
A8- ornange aldl serial data wire pin-e
A9- wht/blk-aldl pin B When jumpered to ground will set the computer to diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the computer, (This wire I will wire this to on side of a after market VSS sensor and the other wire on the sensor goes to ground).
A11- blk- MAP sensor ground.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. This wire is tied to other grounds in the harness and goes to engine ground.

B1- orn- 12v batt power ( I looked and traced down this wire on my 87 cab harness and this is fuesed I think it was a 15). I will probably use a inline fuse.
B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12 volts to trun on the fuel pump.
B3- blk/red- Distributor plug
B4- no wire
B5- purple/wht- Distributor plug
B6- no wire
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the computer.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. I am going to tie this into the ac clutch wire.
B9- no wire
B10-orange/blk- park neutral switch wire. some people say this is optional but I do not think it is because it gives a signal to the computer to give the engine a slight bump in rpm.(if you don't need it why did they put it there?)
B11- no wire
B12- no wire

C1- no wire
C2- brn- wire is not needed
C3-grn/blk- Idle air control
C4-grn/wht- Idle air control
C5-blue/wht- Idle air control
C6-blue/blk- Idle air control C3-C6 all go to the Idle air control valve plug on the TBI it's self.
C7- no wire
C8- no wire
C9- purple/wht-Starter crank signal wire. Goes to the small terminal of the starter.
C10- yel- Temp sender
C11- lt grn- Map sensor
C12- no wire
C13- dk blu- throtle position sensor
C14- gry- signal to map and TPS. ( you will see it tied together in the harness)
C15- on wire
C16- orange- This wire is tied with B1 so it is a 12volt wire

D1- brn/wht- system ground goes to the engine.
D2- blk- tied to the wires for the engine ground.
D3- no wire
D4- wht- distrbutor plug
D5- tan/blk- distrbutor bypass. This is the wire that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 sensor ground to engine.
D7- purple- plugs in to the o2 sensor
D8- D13 no wire
D14- grn- Injector plug plugs into the top of injector
D15- no wire
D16- blue- Injector plug plugs into the other injector

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by cjracing15

Ok here are all the pin outs and the color of the wires. My computer is the standard #1227747

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to power the fuel pump-relay.
A2- no wire
A3- no wire
A4- gry- to egr-relay. This is a ground for the ECM to control the EGR relay.
A5- brn/wht- service soon light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
A6- pink/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
A7- no wire
A8- ornange aldl serial data wire pin-e
A9- wht/blk-aldl pin B When jumpered to ground will set the computer to diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the computer, (This wire I will wire this to on side of a after market VSS sensor and the other wire on the sensor goes to ground).
A11- blk- MAP sensor ground.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. This wire is tied to other grounds in the harness and goes to engine ground.

B1- orn- 12v batt power ( I looked and traced down this wire on my 87 cab harness and this is fuesed I think it was a 15). I will probably use a inline fuse.
B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12 volts to trun on the fuel pump.
B3- blk/red- Distributor plug
B4- no wire
B5- purple/wht- Distributor plug
B6- no wire
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the computer.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. I am going to tie this into the ac clutch wire.
B9- no wire
B10-orange/blk- park neutral switch wire. some people say this is optional but I do not think it is because it gives a signal to the computer to give the engine a slight bump in rpm.(if you don't need it why did they put it there?)
B11- no wire
B12- no wire

C1- no wire
C2- brn- wire is not needed
C3-grn/blk- Idle air control
C4-grn/wht- Idle air control
C5-blue/wht- Idle air control
C6-blue/blk- Idle air control C3-C6 all go to the Idle air control valve plug on the TBI it's self.
C7- no wire
C8- no wire
C9- purple/wht-Starter crank signal wire. Goes to the small terminal of the starter.
C10- yel- Temp sender
C11- lt grn- Map sensor
C12- no wire
C13- dk blu- throtle position sensor
C14- gry- signal to map and TPS. ( you will see it tied together in the harness)
C15- on wire
C16- orange- This wire is tied with B1 so it is a 12volt wire

D1- brn/wht- system ground goes to the engine.
D2- blk- tied to the wires for the engine ground.
D3- no wire
D4- wht- distrbutor plug
D5- tan/blk- distrbutor bypass. This is the wire that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 sensor ground to engine.
D7- purple- plugs in to the o2 sensor
D8- D13 no wire
D14- grn- Injector plug plugs into the top of injector
D15- no wire
D16- blue- Injector plug plugs into the other injector

This might help also if you don't have it. It is on the first page of this thread. Again good luck.

[rfmaster]

Pancake

Looks like you are digging into retrofit - full speed ahead

For P/N switch functionality you'll have to wire a small, simple circuit which requires some wire (12 AWG purple and 16AWG, 1/4" crimp connectors (female and male), BOSCH 30 amp relay, and silicon diode 1N4001 - Radio Shack.

Questions???

//RF

[pancake]

Ok...almost ready to put the tbi on my Blazer.....but have another question. I understand the wiring for P/N switch but do I NEED this for a manual tranny?

again, thanks for all the info and advice.

[rfmaster]

pancake

To get things going it is not required, but having a neutral position sense switch will improve driveability (i.e. ECM alters idle and timing somewhat (depending on ECM, other parameters as well - EGR operation, AIR) between neutral position and being in gear.

Leave B10 (orange-black) unconnected for now (this way ECM will see that truck is always in gear).

//RF

[68c10owner]

we need to make this a sticky or something. This is good info that can help alot of people. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

[cjracing15]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

we need to make this a sticky or something. This is good info that can help alot of people. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

You are welcome!

[joe231]

sweet!
subscribed!
sticky???

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by joe231

sticky???

Are you asking what it is or asking to make thing thread one? I don`t remember seeing any here but on other sites I go to some threads like this one could be made into a "sticky" so that it didn`t get lost when new threads are made or others are posted on. It will always stay at the top so everyone can find it.

[joe231]

sorry, i wasn't clear....
I want this thread to BE a sticky
very good info that I will need in the future
shadetree, N2TRUX, old Rusty C10 , can one of you make it so?

[cjracing15]

Well I did not get to my truck till late today. But I did get rid of all the wires I do not need on the harness. What you see in the first pic is the harness all labeled and sorted out. As you can see it is kind of in two parts. Tomarrow I am going to take apart all the tie points in the harness and that will untangle the last of the wires and then i will recrimp all the tie points like the factory but hopefully a little less of a spaghetti mess. I will take pics of before and after i do this.

The second pic is where i am going to run my wires in the cab. It is the rubber grommet for the esc brain. It is the same size hole that was in the 90 suburban, so it should work real nice.

In the third pic you see the factory oil presure unit and switch adapter, in the last pic is the one out of the suburban that I will have to use because the tbi oil switch adapter has a different thread size than the carb model. I think I will just drill and tap the 90 model adapter for for the stock gage sending unit. You have to use this stock tbi switch to tell the ecm that the engine has oil press. because the fuel pump wire is run through this switch.

I will try and post here again tomarow. stay tuned.