looking to swap a 6.2L

[1tonchevy]

Looking into swapping a 6.2L into my 84 C35 Gasser. I have been over on the diesel site and asked a few questions and i'm not really getting feedback. so my main question is What do i all need to do the swap? i know where there is a 6.2L at the bone yard and i can get for fairly cheap.

Thanks for any advise

[PRattenbury]

How bout just buying a 1994-1998 Dodge Ram Cummins 12 valve diesel? No computers or anything. Use a 5 speed manual, you'd be totally computer-free. And you can build one of them to the trees. If you were closer to me I'd sell you the one I have. It's already built to the trees. I don't have any time to screw with it anyways.

[GmtGmt]

you need engine mounts, converter for a diesel or a manual tranny, rework the wiring, exhurst, 2 batteries, bigger radiator, oil cooler lines and oil cooler

[GmtGmt]

also drain your fuel tank or replace them remember the has to have 2 lines 1 feed 1 return and working fuel cab so its sealed or else you will have drain back and have hard starts.

also very importent a Fuel filter get one for a boat or something like that with a water seperator
like this

[madcow75]

2 minds thinking alike. I just purchased 2 weeks ago a 1989 6.2L diesel for my truck also and this weeks I just purchased a 1993 6.5L turbo top end heads, turbo, exhaust manifolds, injector pump, intake, rad for my 6.2L this week and I am doing the swap myself.

[my4by2]

If you're gonna go the diesel swap route man, the older 12V Cummins is a MUCH better choice over the 6.2L GM offering! Little harder swap over, but there are several companies out there supplying parts for doing just that. Either way, keep us all updated & get some pics as you go along.

[3r!c84]

i agree. 6 in a row is the way to go..


2 less spark plugs too....

[andrewmp6]

If you want to go faster then 75mph and have power get a cummins.Talk to http://www.destroked.com/index.shtml or http://www.autoworldmt.com/ If its a 4x4 http://www.avalancheengineering.com/xmember73-91.html

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

If you want to go faster then 75mph and have power get a cummins.Talk to http://www.destroked.com/index.shtml or http://www.autoworldmt.com/ If its a 4x4 http://www.avalancheengineering.com/xmember73-91.html

never need to go that fast. thats around 120 KM and thats high way speed and i never take it on the high way. i agree that the cummins is a better motor but i just want to keep it simple and chevy. the 6.2 with a 6.5 turbo set up will be more than enough for what i need.

[odee]

I used my stock mounts when I put the 6.5t and nv4500 into my 80 model crew dually. turned the ac box with s10 parts to clear turbo. The fuel filter I used the stock gm parts. Oil cooler lines I had made up at the local hyd. shop, way better than stock gm ones. Rad I used was stock 4 core diesel. If you can find the big thermostat housing for the 6.5 I would use it. The 6.5 and 6.2 are good engines for what they were put out there for, just don't expect alot of speed out of it. My new to me truck I'm gathering parts for will be a 86 crew dually with the cummins and a nv4500.

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by odee

I used my stock mounts when I put the 6.5t and nv4500 into my 80 model crew dually. turned the ac box with s10 parts to clear turbo. The fuel filter I used the stock gm parts. Oil cooler lines I had made up at the local hyd. shop, way better than stock gm ones. Rad I used was stock 4 core diesel. If you can find the big thermostat housing for the 6.5 I would use it. The 6.5 and 6.2 are good engines for what they were put out there for, just don't expect alot of speed out of it. My new to me truck I'm gathering parts for will be a 86 crew dually with the cummins and a nv4500.

Nice set up!! I agree, if you go manual transmission, the NV4500 is bulletproof. You could probably drop a stick of dynamite in it and it would still work. Lol... ok, so maybe not THAT strong. But I have a second set up that will be a 6.2 in front of an NV4500. Love that transmission...

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by GmtGmt

you need engine mounts, converter for a diesel or a manual tranny, rework the wiring, exhurst, 2 batteries, bigger radiator, oil cooler lines and oil cooler

You can actually get away without the bigger radiator. Just don't ever let it over-heat, so if you're going to tow things, then get the bigger radiator. If you're just going to drive it, you'll be fine. But the sensor on the diesel runs at a different resistance setting than a gas engine, so your gauge will read as if it's not heating up all the way. Trust me... it is DEFINITELY heating up. Same with the oil cooler. You don't REALLY need one. If you're not going to be towing anything, just make a line that connects the two ports together so you have oil flow through them. It's important to keep the oil pressure at the right setting. What I'm planning on doing with mine is making a hose that goes from the "feed" line on the block up to my turbo (when I get around to putting it on) and having the "return" line from the turbo going to an aftermarket oil cooler, and the return line from the oil cooler going back into the block. The wiring is as simple as taking everything that belongs to the gas engine and plugging it into the diesel where it should go (i.e. sensors, starter wires, etc) and the "Power to coil" wire for the distributor goes to the injection pump at the front of the engine. It's very important to get that one right; if you don't have it hooked up, your pump will never open to let your engine start.

Originally Posted by GmtGmt

also drain your fuel tank or replace them remember the has to have 2 lines 1 feed 1 return and working fuel cab so its sealed or else you will have drain back and have hard starts.

also very importent a Fuel filter get one for a boat or something like that with a water seperator
like this

Water separator (or equivalent diesel fuel filter) is important. Don't use the stock style fuel filter / water separator that is mounted on the firewall. It's a piece of crap. You can use your Evaporator Canister fuel line as your fuel return line. You won't need the evap canister anyway.

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

If you want to go faster then 75mph and have power get a cummins.Talk to http://www.destroked.com/index.shtml or http://www.autoworldmt.com/ If its a 4x4 http://www.avalancheengineering.com/xmember73-91.html

Have you ever driven a 6.2? I've had mine at 75 on the interstate (in front of a Turbo 350, nonetheless, so no overdrive) and had PLENTY of power. If I put it to the floor at that speed, I could pass people faster than my old gasoline engine could dream about.

Once you come to respect the 6.2, you get sick of people bashing it because it's not a "black smoke blower" diesel engine. It was never meant to be. I love mine, and am more than willing to help you out with whatever questions you have when it comes to the swap. Just remember, it's a diesel (read: totally different way of driving compared to gas engines to get the most out of it). You can't just stomp on the throttle like you can with a gas engine (and that goes for ANY diesel engine). You have to "ease into it" and gradually increase the throttle to get the best response. Black smoke is just wasted fuel and just shows your engine's inability to burn all the fuel you're dumping into the system. It's also based on a GM big block, so it weighs about 250-300 lbs more than a small block. You'll want to beef up your front springs to be able to handle the weight. I went with 3/4 ton suspension on mine and am very happy with it.

It bolts right up to everything when you pull your SBC out. Engine mounts, transmission bell housing, everything. You need a diesel specific torque converter (low stall speed). You need to figure out a way to wire in your glow plugs. I used a Ford starter solenoid and push button. You'll need a vacuum pump if you're running a 3 speed automatic transmission, otherwise your tranny will never shift. The exhaust is easy to re-route (if you have stock manifolds right now, you won't have to change anything at all). You need to drain your fuel tank as well as you can, and top it completely off with diesel before you try to start it for the first time. DO NOT EVER USE ETHER / STARTING FLUID. It will destroy your head gaskets faster than you can blink. Any other questions that you run into along the way... feel free to ask!!

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

You can actually get away without the bigger radiator. Just don't ever let it over-heat, so if you're going to tow things, then get the bigger radiator. If you're just going to drive it, you'll be fine. But the sensor on the diesel runs at a different resistance setting than a gas engine, so your gauge will read as if it's not heating up all the way. Trust me... it is DEFINITELY heating up. Same with the oil cooler. You don't REALLY need one. If you're not going to be towing anything, just make a line that connects the two ports together so you have oil flow through them. It's important to keep the oil pressure at the right setting. What I'm planning on doing with mine is making a hose that goes from the "feed" line on the block up to my turbo (when I get around to putting it on) and having the "return" line from the turbo going to an aftermarket oil cooler, and the return line from the oil cooler going back into the block. The wiring is as simple as taking everything that belongs to the gas engine and plugging it into the diesel where it should go (i.e. sensors, starter wires, etc) and the "Power to coil" wire for the distributor goes to the injection pump at the front of the engine. It's very important to get that one right; if you don't have it hooked up, your pump will never open to let your engine start.



Water separator (or equivalent diesel fuel filter) is important. Don't use the stock style fuel filter / water separator that is mounted on the firewall. It's a piece of crap. You can use your Evaporator Canister fuel line as your fuel return line. You won't need the evap canister anyway.



Have you ever driven a 6.2? I've had mine at 75 on the interstate (in front of a Turbo 350, nonetheless, so no overdrive) and had PLENTY of power. If I put it to the floor at that speed, I could pass people faster than my old gasoline engine could dream about.

Once you come to respect the 6.2, you get sick of people bashing it because it's not a "black smoke blower" diesel engine. It was never meant to be. I love mine, and am more than willing to help you out with whatever questions you have when it comes to the swap. Just remember, it's a diesel (read: totally different way of driving compared to gas engines to get the most out of it). You can't just stomp on the throttle like you can with a gas engine (and that goes for ANY diesel engine). You have to "ease into it" and gradually increase the throttle to get the best response. Black smoke is just wasted fuel and just shows your engine's inability to burn all the fuel you're dumping into the system. It's also based on a GM big block, so it weighs about 250-300 lbs more than a small block. You'll want to beef up your front springs to be able to handle the weight. I went with 3/4 ton suspension on mine and am very happy with it.

It bolts right up to everything when you pull your SBC out. Engine mounts, transmission bell housing, everything. You need a diesel specific torque converter (low stall speed). You need to figure out a way to wire in your glow plugs. I used a Ford starter solenoid and push button. You'll need a vacuum pump if you're running a 3 speed automatic transmission, otherwise your tranny will never shift. The exhaust is easy to re-route (if you have stock manifolds right now, you won't have to change anything at all). You need to drain your fuel tank as well as you can, and top it completely off with diesel before you try to start it for the first time. DO NOT EVER USE ETHER / STARTING FLUID. It will destroy your head gaskets faster than you can blink. Any other questions that you run into along the way... feel free to ask!!

Thanks for all the info and the help. I'm thinking i will tackle this project, i may go look at the donner truck i found in the bone yard and look and see if all the wireing is all still there might be easier to swap the engine and dash harness? so i can keep my T400 trans just need the converter from the diesel.

I don't plan on towing anyhting but if i do it will only be my car trailer that can only fit small to medium vehicles.

I'll take pics and keep everyone posted to the progress (will be a long adventure) as i want to buy the motor and tear it apart an re seal it and make it new before installing it.

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by 1tonchevy

Thanks for all the info and the help. I'm thinking i will tackle this project, i may go look at the donner truck i found in the bone yard and look and see if all the wireing is all still there might be easier to swap the engine and dash harness? so i can keep my T400 trans just need the converter from the diesel.

I don't plan on towing anyhting but if i do it will only be my car trailer that can only fit small to medium vehicles.

I'll take pics and keep everyone posted to the progress (will be a long adventure) as i want to buy the motor and tear it apart an re seal it and make it new before installing it.

I tow an 18 ft trailer with cars on it all the time, with no problems. And I don't have my turbo or overdrive transmission yet, either. Just watch your gauges, especially temperature.

You can keep your TH400, as long as the donor truck has a TH400 in it. If it's a 700r4, the torque converters will be different. BUT, if it's a 700r4, get the entire set up. It's better than a 6.2 / TH400 anyway. Better low end response and overdrive on the top end. It's a bit tricky to get the transmission wired in though because of the lock up torque converter on 700r4's. Or, you could always send me the complete 700r4 set up and I'll send you my torque converter for a TH350/TH400...

Don't worry about swapping the entire wiring harness; it really is super simple. You won't have any wires left dangling or un-used. There's 3 wires on the injection pump: 1 is the power wire where your power to coil wire goes, and the other two are wired into a single feed coming from the starter and a sensor on the passenger side of the block for the cold start "fast idle" solenoid. You don't need to hook those up. The alternator wires in exactly as your SBC does.

You WILL need 2 batteries. Grab the secondary battery mount out of the donor truck while you're in the junkyard. I use 2 Red Top Optima 1000cca batteries in mine.

If you do re-seal the engine like you suggested you might (highly recommended) don't forget to have the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. And, get a new harmonic balancer. It'll save you a huge headache in the long run.

IMPORTANT... I completely forgot about this until just now. Get brand new starter bolts (they're a metric thread, but you can get them at any auto parts store in the self help aisle). I snapped one off inside the block and had a hell of a time drilling it back out. They stretch over time and weaken.

[GmtGmt]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

IMPORTANT... I completely forgot about this until just now. Get brand new starter bolts (they're a metric thread, but you can get them at any auto parts store in the self help aisle). I snapped one off inside the block and had a hell of a time drilling it back out. They stretch over time and weaken.

Good advise also remember the starter support bracket!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

Don't worry about swapping the entire wiring harness; it really is super simple. You won't have any wires left dangling or un-used. There's 3 wires on the injection pump: 1 is the power wire where your power to coil wire goes, and the other two are wired into a single feed coming from the starter and a sensor on the passenger side of the block for the cold start "fast idle" solenoid. You don't need to hook those up. The alternator wires in exactly as your SBC does.

The temperature sensor controlled wire is the HPCA (housing pressure cold advance). HPCA advances the injection timing about 6 degrees when the block is below 125F to make cold starts easier. I would hook it up. The HPCA temperature sensor can be wired to the same power source as the fuel cutoff. If there's a jumper wire to the starter keep it.

Since this is coming from a donor truck... I'd grab the wires from the firewall terminals to the Temp, Oil, Alt, Injection pump, glow plug relay, and AC if you have it. The Packard terminals slide right out of the firewall plug when you release them. Wear gloves the firewall plug is greasy and nasty.

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

You WILL need 2 batteries. Grab the secondary battery mount out of the donor truck while you're in the junkyard. I use 2 Red Top Optima 1000cca batteries in mine.

The original dual battery setup attaches the grounds to the block or heads and the left battery positive to the right battery positive. The right battery positive then goes to the starter.

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

IMPORTANT... I completely forgot about this until just now. Get brand new starter bolts (they're a metric thread, but you can get them at any auto parts store in the self help aisle). I snapped one off inside the block and had a hell of a time drilling it back out. They stretch over time and weaken.

The starter brace (it goes from the tail of the starter to the block) is a must have part. You will break off the bolts without it. There were 2 types of starter braces. The brace for the big old heavy Delco starter is discontinued so junkyard expeditions are the only way you will get this one. GM still has braces for the high torque gear reduction Delco. If you are missing the brace or brace and starter. I would take the opportunity to upgrade to the gear reduction starter GM used on the later 6.5 (95-2000??). It's always a good idea to replace the long bolts.

[GmtGmt]

his is a 1ton and allready have hydroboost, so he can just leave the pump and mount it on the 6.2

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by GmtGmt

his is a 1ton and allready have hydroboost, so he can just leave the pump and mount it on the 6.2

Hmm... next time I'll pay more attention to what vehicle it'll be swapped into. It should still be good info for anyone else who needs it though that doesn't have the hydro-boost from the factory.

[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by lindstromjd

Hmm... next time I'll pay more attention to what vehicle it'll be swapped into. It should still be good info for anyone else who needs it though that doesn't have the hydro-boost from the factory.

lol he beat me too it yeah my beast has hydroboost. but thanks for remembering and posting. this will be a great how to thread for people who want the swap.

[GmtGmt]

yup

im highly considering swaping the 400 smallblock from the step side i bought for 6.2 diesel or shoe horn a Detroit diesel 6v53 into it

[Chris Guthro]

thanks for the info on the swap, im gonna go the 6.5 route if i can find one..it seems like a fairly straight forward swap from what im hearing, is it any different when the 6.5 is turbo?

[D13]

Turbo package will not clear A/C box in a factory square.
Turbo motors use different injectors, lines, and injector pump.

I get 22+ MPG in my 87 C10 with 6.2 and 700R4, with at least 1 bad cylinder.

Just think of it as a low revving 305 and drive accordingly.

If you keep the TH400 you just need the vacuum control on the side of the injection pump. IF you go to a 700R4 it has a kind of complex linkage that is best robbed off a donor. In fact, the easiest way to do the swap is to find a rotten donor truck and just swap parts.

[ky_kid]

Will a 6.5 Turbo bolt up to my transmission? It's a 4L80E. I found a complete 93 2WD 6.5 TD donor truck with only a bad trans.

[1tonchevy]

[QUOTE=ky_kid;4914843]Will a 6.5 Turbo bolt up to my transmission? It's a 4L80E. I found a complete 93 2WD 6.5 TD donor truck with only a bad trans.[/QUOte

What trans is in the donor truck and what trans is in your's?

[ky_kid]

Not sure but I know it's an automatic. I'll have to check... I suppose it has to be the 700-R4 (4L60E) or the 4L80E