TF small back window glass install?

[roger55]

Tried to install today with no success. Got it in but I took it back out. It just wasn't fitting right. There was no way the lock would go into place.
The glass looks like it's the right size and shape. It's either the rubber that's off or I just didn't install it correctly.

I have only put in glass once with the lock type of rubber and that was on a '59 Peterbilt windshield about 40 years ago. I put the rubber on the frame first and that is what I tried to do with this one.
Do I need to put the rubber on the glass first and use a string to pull the inside part in?

[Sim6]

Put rubber on glass, use seal cord or a soft rope lining the entire channel. I've found its good to have at least two people to do this. That way you can have someone hold the glass and apply pressure from the outside. Then slowly pull rope out causing it to seat. There are a few YouTube video's that may be helpful.
Jeff

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Sim6

Put rubber on glass, use seal cord or a soft rope lining the entire channel. I've found its good to have at least two people to do this. That way you can have someone hold the glass and apply pressure from the outside. Then slowly pull rope out causing it to seat. There are a few YouTube video's that may be helpful.
Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I'll give it a try.
I knew I needed to install the windshield that way.
But, I didn't know that was the best way to do the rear glass also. It sure didn't work out well for me putting the rubber on the cab first.

[roger55]

Nope.

Can't put the rubber on the window first. Won't even come close to staying on the glass. As soon as you put a corner on, it pops right off.

It's got to go in the channel opening first. This is getting frustrating fast.

[1project2many]

It should go together fairly easily. The seal should be installed on the cab first. It can then be rolled outward to allow the glass to be inserted. Once the glass is in, the lock cord wedges in. Soap on the rubber seal can help this step.

FWIW when I installed the glass in my truck back in 98 the supplier had sent the wrong glass. It was only off by a small amount so it took three different guys and myself working on it before we were convinced it was the wrong part. The telltale was really that the seal tried to bulge out when we installed the lock cord.

If you're installing a single piece seal I've found it's easier to install on the glass first and use a helper. You can sometimes get the small pieces of glass without a helper by using a suction cup dent puller as a handle. You need to be able to pull the glass into the opening and pull the string in the same direction. Sometimes this needs to happen simultaneously. We use this style seal in our school buses so I have to work with them frequently. A bit of RTV or weatherstrip adhesive can help the seal stay on the glass. Wrap a string around the outside of the weather strip. Set one end of the weatherstrip over the lip of the cab then start pulling the string from the inside to force the over the lip. You will find there's a balance to be maintained between where the string is exiting the seal and where the seal is fully installed over the cab. Don't try to push the seal on too quickly or the string will become bound. Use a paint stick or other wooden tool shaped similar to a knife to slide around between the rubber seal and the metal cab if the seal gets wedged. Again, rubber lube or soapy water can really help here.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

It should go together fairly easily. The seal should be installed on the cab first. It can then be rolled outward to allow the glass to be inserted. Once the glass is in, the lock cord wedges in. Soap on the rubber seal can help this step.

1p2m has the correct procedure.
i've done the small window alone but it helps to have 2 people
soapy water is all you need for lube and no sealant
use masking tape to hold the rubber in the frame and peal as you go

the big back glass is the challenge
it took 2 of us over an hour to get the lock in
lots of cussin' that day

[roger55]

I guess the first time I did it all right except for the lube. So, the glass wouldn't go into quite the right place.

I'll wait until I've got help available and try it with the lube. I'm afraid if I try that alone, it will slip out of my hands on me.

[roger55]

Got help.
Still no success. Lubed it up real good. Absolutely no difference than my first attempt.
It just plain doesn't fit. Either the glass is off (got it from LMC pt# 38-6026) or the rubber isn't right. Can't find the receipt for the rubber. Not sure where I bought it.

It's in there in as much as it can go. No way to even start putting the cord lock in there. I agree that this should be an easy job. It's obvious now that something isn't right.

Anything stand out to you guys where my issue is?

[68JOHNDEERE]

From your picture it appears as if the top isn't seated all the way into the cab where it needs to be. The bottom looks good. This is an H style gasket so the glass is smaller than the opening, so the glass has to be with in that opening for the strip to go in. There are tools made to insert that strip into the gasket, if you have a local glass shop they may be able to assist in getting that strip in, or at least maybe letting you use the filler strip tool.

[_Ogre]

i used an eyelet tool that the keyway was threaded into and drug around the gasket
the one i used was old and borrowed, i googled the tool and found nothing
it looked like the eye of a big needle with a screwdriver handle

you could try to grind and polish a ball on the end of a screwdriver
force the ball into the gasket to open up the keyway slot and force the key into the opening



a hook like this is handy for glass installation



as stated earlier, we worked at getting the key into the slot using the right tools
the corners were a bear, especially the last corner

[roger55]

Thanks. I'm using a screwdriver and trying to be as careful as I can.
I've got almost 3/4 of the lock cord in. It's been a bear and a half to get that far.
I'm now stuck on corner 3 of 4.
Going to break and have supper now and see if my wife can help me afterwards to hold that corner open while I try to get the lock in around that corner.
I think once I get that, the last corner may not me quite as hard.

I never would have guessed this would have been a this hard of a job. I've done several w/s and backglasses before too. Like I said though, the last one with a lock cord was an old Peterbilt but that one was pretty easy as I remember.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by roger55

Going to break and have supper now and see if my wife can help me afterwards to hold that corner open while I try to get the lock in around that corner....

Ahhhh....the wisdom that comes with age!

Smart not to get ticked off and rush it because if it were to happen, you'd crack the glass on the very last corner

[1project2many]

Congratulations. It looks good.

Imagine if the glass was about 1/8" too long! I can't even begin to describe the frustration that comes from a piece of glass that keeps ending up almost there.

I have to tell you, I have never seen glass installed with the rubber on the body first, never, ever.

That's the factory method to install the glass.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...55ctsm0105.htm

I apologize for not posting that link earlier but I just didn't remember it was available.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Congratulations. It looks good.

Imagine if the glass was about 1/8" too long! I can't even begin to describe the frustration that comes from a piece of glass that keeps ending up almost there.

That's the factory method to install the glass.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...55ctsm0105.htm

I apologize for not posting that link earlier but I just didn't remember it was available.

Thanks. I knew the rubber on the body was the correct way from the start having done another one in the past on that Pete. But this one was so tight, I did take a look at putting on the glass first. I guess it would theoretically be possible if it was super glued on the glass first but it would be quickly obvious to anyone that it's not the right way to do it.

That too large of glass must have driven you mad!

I have a feeling that the slight crown in the edge of my glass made it fit a little tighter than it was supposed to be and thus making the job very difficult. This thing was tight!. When you told me the direction I needed to take, I was sure it wasn't going to work. Over time of working it like you said, I could see it was looking like it would. I wasn't absolutely sure it was going to go until I had about half the lock cord in. Sometimes I could get it several inches in in just a few minutes and other times it took me an hour to get a couple inches in.

I didn't finish until 11:30 last night and my hands are very sore today. Sure glad to have this done. If I ever do this again I would see if a glass shop could grind about 1/32" off the glass all the way around.

[68JOHNDEERE]

Nice Job roger, looks great. To help you with the windshield head to this you tube link

https://youtu.be/LsSB4Kad4qA

[roger55]

Originally Posted by 68JOHNDEERE

Nice Job roger, looks great. To help you with the windshield head to this you tube link

https://youtu.be/LsSB4Kad4qA

You were the one to push me to keep going on back glass. When I first read what you said, I was saying "no way" to myself and I was ready to pull it back out. Thanks again.

And thanks for the video. It's a very good one. I just watched it.

This is a very similar install as the w/s I did on my '55 Bel Air. My wife helped me with that one and we had no trouble at all. We even did it twice. I wanted to do a trial fit without sealer just to make sure there wasn't. That one had the stainless and I wanted to make sure there weren't any issues with the fitment of that too so I installed all of it.
Then removed it all and the w/s, put the sealer on and put it back in. It went as smooth as could be. I hope I have the same luck with the truck.

I've heard there can be issues with how aftermarket windshields fit these trucks in the corners. I bought the w/s locally at a glass shop that will work with me if there's any issue with it.
The w/s I removed from this truck was the original and it fit just like it should have so I know I don't have any issue with the shape of the opening. I was really lucky because this truck had never even been in a wreck. A few dings (and of course some rust) but that was it.

I've never used those suction cups before. I think I should get a couple. I just checked and Lowe's has them in stock for $7 and they say good for 40 lbs. a piece. I think I will make me one of those tools with a ball on the end too. I didn't have that stuff for my w/s and back glass install on my Bel Air and did fine without them. But after this experience with the truck back glass, I want to be more prepared for the w/s.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Congrats, Roger. Bet your finger tips are aching...or both hands and arms!

I had a glass shop install a new windshield in my '55 and they struggled with it for a couple hours. They didn't crack it but they left one of the interior corners of the rubber sort of hung up. I didn't mind because I know I'm going to remove it when I do final paint and I let them use their rubber, not Steele Rubber like everyone always says we should use on these trucks. Post pix when you do the windshield, please.

[1project2many]

Sore hands... no doubt. A job like that can get the adrenaline going so that you don't even realize how much pressure you're applying.

I have a couple of dent pullers I use to lift glass:



BTW, that picture of the finished job can do double duty. Folks looking for the location of the VIN tag on the 55-57 trucks can easily see the tag on the door post.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Sore hands... no doubt. A job like that can get the adrenaline going so that you don't even realize how much pressure you're applying.
I have a couple of dent pullers I use to lift glass:



BTW, that picture of the finished job can do double duty. Folks looking for the location of the VIN tag on the 55-57 trucks can easily see the tag on the door post.

My wife had to pick up a few things at Loew's so I asked her to get a couple of the suction cups. They couldn't find them in the store (website said 2 in stock) so she went to HF and bought 2 from them. I'm a little worried but the reviews would lead you to believe they will be OK.
The do have a warning sticker on them that says "Do not depend solely on the suction cup to hold an item; always use backup support. Under certain circumstances the suction cup may lose it's grip on the workpiece."
That's a little worrisome.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by roger55

My wife had to pick up a few things at Loew's so I asked her to get a couple of the suction cups. They couldn't find them in the store (website said 2 in stock) so she went to HF and bought 2 from them. I'm a little worried but the reviews would lead you to believe they will be OK.
The do have a warning sticker on them that says "Do not depend solely on the suction cup to hold an item; always use backup support. Under certain circumstances the suction cup may lose it's grip on the workpiece."
That's a little worrisome.

Heed that warning with your window, DO NOT rely on that little suction cup to hold the glass! You should see a real glass suction cup, it's a lot bigger.

I have a few of those HF cups and used them on my glass too, but only for "help" not for holding it completely. I put them on the inside to pull in while I was working the rubber in with my tools. All the while my wife and son were outside to be sure the glass didn't fall out onto the decklid and driveway.


Brian

[1project2many]

I think there's a lawyer involved in the warning. I once found a warning on a set of belts that said "Caution: Do not change belts while engine is running."

Suction cups aren't perfect but a suction cup applied to a smooth piece of flat glass has an extremely good chance of working as expected. Remember that it's all about the seal that's created between the rubber cup and the glass. As long as the seal keeps the atmosphere out, the suction cup holds. I use a little water mixed with dish detergent applied to the cup to enhance the seal. In a pinch I've used a bit of WD-40. I use them because they are water soluble and don't ruin paint. A light oil like a vegetable oil can work well also but you will lose the friction that prevents the cup from sliding around on the glass. That usually brings some "fun" surprises.