Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread

[Ackattack]

I figure I'll start a project thread as I kick this new project off. A lot of things are still undecided, but the main jest is going to be a fuel injected V8 auto tranny shortbed on some wide tires. Going to keep it as a GMC, but shortbed with trailing arm suspension. Right now I'm planning on airbags.

So here are some pics....

I'll be using the cab and front fenders of my 72 GMC


I may use the tpi 350 that's in the GMC now. Probably going to change wheels for a different width, but stick with 17" diameter

Then I got a 68 chevy shortbed. I'll be using the frame and part of the bed.






The tear down of the 68 will begin on Saturday!

[RACINJASON22]

Very Cool!! I Like the sounds of this build.

Keep us posted and remember to keep the pic's coming like you started with

RJ22...

[Ackattack]

got the parts cleaned out of the bed tonight, and swept out the bed. I couldn't get a 100% evaluation on the bed floor condition when I bought it, but it appeared to be rust hole free.

Well after cleaning it out tonight, it surely is free from rust holes. I'd say the bed floor is the best piece of metal on the truck (except for maybe the frame) So that's a good thing!

[see ten]

Looks like a good start! When you say "pro touring" are you planning anything aside from bags and wider tires/wheels to make it handle? I would think the porterbuilt kits to install the front and rear corvette suspension would be the ultimate, but of course they aren't in everyones budget.

[Ackattack]

Well I don't really consider air bags pro-touring material in general. I have a rear 4th gen f-body sway bar. A popular modification for the pro-touring guys is to actually use a trailing arm suspension setup (aka truckarms).

I don't know what exactly my options are in the front. That will require some research/developement. I'm going to have to take some measurements of the stock suspension and see what can be done to possibly improve on them (maybe raise the upper control arm mount, use a different spindle, get corvette suspension, or just make my own control arms.

Also, I'm going to use rear disks brakes (probably a factory type setup) I'll also upgrade to larger front disks.

I haven't really looked into it a lot, but I may also run a hydroboost setup on the MC.

The actual goal of the truck is to outperform a Ford Lightning in all catagories (acceleration, handling, fuel economy, etc.). I know those trucks are fairly quick from the factory, but for a factory truck, they handle very well too.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Well I don't really consider air bags pro-touring material in general. I have a rear 4th gen f-body sway bar. A popular modification for the pro-touring guys is to actually use a trailing arm suspension setup (aka truckarms).

I don't know what exactly my options are in the front. That will require some research/developement. I'm going to have to take some measurements of the stock suspension and see what can be done to possibly improve on them (maybe raise the upper control arm mount, use a different spindle, get corvette suspension, or just make my own control arms.

Also, I'm going to use rear disks brakes (probably a factory type setup) I'll also upgrade to larger front disks.

I haven't really looked into it a lot, but I may also run a hydroboost setup on the MC.

The actual goal of the truck is to outperform a Ford Lightning in all catagories (acceleration, handling, fuel economy, etc.). I know those trucks are fairly quick from the factory, but for a factory truck, they handle very well too.

I'm on all the Pro-Touring sites as well.... don't exclude air-ride as a choice for your suspension. They will allow much more flexibility while attempting to acheive your goals. Check out those threads on PT.com about the road course challange & see how ART's rides compared vs. static suspended vehicles.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'm on all the Pro-Touring sites as well.... don't exclude air-ride as a choice for your suspension. They will allow much more flexibility while attempting to acheive your goals. Check out those threads on PT.com about the road course challange & see how ART's rides compared vs. static suspended vehicles.

Well I'm using air bags. My point was that if I was looking for an all out road race truck there would probably be a better choice. But truck will be multipurpose, with the pro touring flavor.

[CG]

Ive never even heard of Pro Touring before this. Guess Im gonna have to do some googling.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by CG

Ive never even heard of Pro Touring before this. Guess Im gonna have to do some googling.

It was originally 'loosely' based on vehicles that were similar in heritage to the early/mid 60's 'Trans-Am' type factory race cars. High winding motors, manual transmissions, better steering/suspension/brakes, w/a bunch of rubber stuffed in the wheel wells.

There are some guys that pop a set of wheels/tires on a lowered 69 camaro & call it a pro-touring car.... but, it's just a Camaro w/some wheels/tires.

It's upgrading all aspects of the vehicle (car or truck). Key the build toward 'ultimate' drivability; that's what it should be about. A better motor (doesn't have to be a race engine, just a strong engine), OD trans (auto or manual), optimized suspension, brakes, interior that's built for miles of use, etc.... etc....

[N2TRUX]

Scoti gave you a great description, but forgot to mention the origin of the term. A few years back the car magazines decided enough is enough with the Pro Street look. It had escalated to a level that most cars were nothing more than thinly disguised race cars.

They decided to try to turn the trend to cars that were totally functional. The idea was to encourage people to build cars that could go fast, stop fast, and fly around a curve while riding in the comfort of a/c.

They would be reliable enough to jump in and drive across the country with ease. To promote this concept they decide to have an event that would entice people to build cars and make a road trip with them, and the Hot Rod "Power Tour" was born.

The Hot Rod Magazine editor coined the term "Pro Touring" from a combination of "Pro Street" and "Power Touring".....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

The Hot Rod Magazine editor coined the term "Pro Touring" from a combination of "Pro Street" and "Power Touring".....

It was during a bench racing session between Jeff Smith & Mark Steilow.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

It was during a bench racing session between Jeff Smith & Mark Steilow.

You are correct. I knew it was Jeff Smith, but forgot that it was Mark Steilow that he was talking with.

Just so y'all know Mark is the king of Pro Touring Camaros-Detroit Speed

[CG]

The Power Tour I have heard of. I actually stopped buying Hot Rod Mag when they first started promoting it. To me the whole mag turned into a giant advertisement for the Power Tour. Ive noticed the tour has become very popular and thats cool, but I also noticed every article in Hot Rod has stopped trying to figure a way to mention the tour...Was almost as bad as the van phase they went through. (IMO)

Anyway I like the sound of a ProTourning ride. Personally I'm more into the 60s style build up without all the big bling wheels and fat tires, but I bet a good ProTouring ride would be a blast to take a cross country trip in.

[Ackattack]

Yeah, I went on PowerTour back in 2002....but the truck was not running reliably so I had to take my "backup"...a 2001 Firebird Formula. Even got a little 1"x1" photo of it in the mag!

[Ackattack]

Well I picked up an engine and transmission last night.

Got a 98 LS1 with a 4L60E. It came wrapped in a 98 Trans Am. I got the whole car for $4400. There isn't really anything major wrong with the car, but I think I"m going to part it out...taking what I need.

[67cst]

if you decide to part with the wheels let me know, ill be down in spokane in august for the goodguys show, if you end up selling them maybe i can work something out when im down there. let me know what you think

thanks

[Ackattack]

Frame off restoration Day 1 is in the books.

I started by building a dolly for the bed, then moved the truck into the garage (good thing my jeep has a winch on it )



Then I got to work removing the bed. That was a piece of cake.



Then I built another dolly for the cab. Removed the front fenders, bumper, core support and some other hangups and it was time to remove the cab.





Then I removed some more things like the exhaust, part of the fuel lines, brake lines. Then I broke out the grinder and started cleaning up the frame just to give me an idea of what its going to take.



I spent about 45 minutes with the grinder and wire wheel and got the back portion, top and sides of the frame done. It seemed to move quickley, but I'm afraid that the inside of the frame rail is going to take way too much time....so I think I'm going to look into getting it sand blasted.

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

After seeing your truck at the meet it's hard to believe that this is what you started with. Your truck looks great.

It was great meeting you and your family. Hope to see you again next time.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

After seeing your truck at the meet it's hard to believe that this is what you started with. Your truck looks great.

It was great meeting you and your family. Hope to see you again next time.

Thanks


More progress: I got the glass set in the track thing (can't remember what it's called). It was a pain, but got it done.

The stereo is also finished being installed for now. The drivers side kick panel is very tight up in there, but it fits. On the passenger side the kick panel fits, however I don't think it will fit once I run my AC/heat lines through the firewall, so I'll probably have to re-do that one, oh well.

I got the drivers side door panel installed. For the bottom bolts I used some stainless steel button head cap screws that look nice. I can't do the pass. side right now. of the 4 holes that secure the door panel, 2 of them have bolts broken off into them, and a third one is missing the threaded insert. No big deal, just not a straight forward installation.

I've had a bad rattle coming from the dash area, so I dropped the steering column and popped out the gauges to investigate. Nothing obvious. I think its one of the numerous wires under there tapping on the gauge cluster itself, so I think once I do some tie wrapping, it will be taken care of. While I had the steering column dropped down I got to looking and thinking. Right now it is very "cozy" wit the steering column and steering wheel (Grant wheel with like 4" dish) and Ethans car seat right next to me. It's like I can barely move. My steering column has two "notches" in it that could align with the "nub" and it was aligned with the forward most, pushing the steering wheel back. Well I'm going to push it forward. However, this isn't as easy as it sounds. The neutral safety switch is about 3/4" from the fire wall and the hole column needs to move about 2" (maybe 3" forward to get to the next notch. So I'm going to have to cut another notch in the steering column outer tube so that I can move the neutral safety switch up the column. It will be a big pain to remove it, but really, it will make driving much more pleasurable.

While I have the steering column out, I will also rebuild the turn signal cancel mechanism since it only works when turning one direction.

I also ordered some new door weatherstripping from GMCPaul's today. I got the push on kind that will hopefully seal better than what I have on there now (the glue on type from LMC with a poor glue job).

I also ordered a compressor block from a company called Docs Blocks to be able to use my LS1 A/C compressor with the standard size A/C lines.

Also ordered some new lower air bag cups so I can raise my minimum ride height so my tires aren't scrubbing the inner fenders at full dump. Probably only need 1/2" taller or so.

[Hard Luck]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Thanks
I also ordered some new door weatherstripping from GMCPaul's today. I got the push on kind that will hopefully seal better than what I have on there now (the glue on type from LMC with a poor glue job).

Are those the s10 seals or something else? Does it have the molded edge at the upper A-pillar?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Hard Luck

Are those the s10 seals or something else? Does it have the molded edge at the upper A-pillar?

Rumor has it they're for a mid-80s dodge full size or a dakota....not sure

[Luvlegs]

Take my word for it - I had a whole winter to kill so i did from the cab - back -with a wire wheel, sand paper, scrapers... then laquer thinner - then metal restorer.... then heard it was only a couple hundred to have a rolling frame blasted.... I have no trailer or easy way to transport so it was fine for me but anywhoo.... get it blasted - you'll be WWAAAYYY ahead!

[Ackattack]

Well after calling several places and getting quoted $300+ for sandblasting the frame I decided to sandblast it myself. I bought a 40lb pressurized sanblaster from harbor freight to do the job. I also got some tarps, and wood to build an enclosure around the frame to help contain the sand.

I'm using some sand (silicate somethingorother). It was $6.xx /100lbs at home depot. I also got a filtered resperator, a hood, and ear muffs.

So this morning I tore down to the bare frame.



And then built a frame around it. I then attached tarps all the way around and over the top. I then installed a flourscent light. I cut a hole in the tarp for the shop vac to maintain a negative pressure while I'm blasting so the air that is going in (from the compressor) doesn't just blow all the sand out through the seams. I also duct taped all of the seams.

So tonight I got to work blasting. In 45 minutes I did 2/3 of the top of the frame and a little on the inside before i ran out of sand (only got one bag).



So hopefully the whole thing will take ~6 hrs to complete.

I thought about taking to the sandblasters but by doing it myself I save a little money, get sandblasting equipment!, and I was able to remove the front and rear suspension to get a more complete job.

Probably won't get much more done this weekend....got 2 days of drag racing to attend to

[GREASEMONKEY72]

good progress, im always for doing things myself

[Ackattack]

Today I finally finished up sandblasting the frame. It took longer than I had really expected, and it would have been easier to pay to have it done. Ended up taking 1100 lbs of sand to do! I also blasted the control arms and the engine crossmember and transmission cross member.

I need to roll the axle into the garage and blast it and parts of the front suspension, so just a little more time blasting, then I'll be done with that dirty job.

I think I'm going to have to get a new crossmember where the trailing arms bolt up to. The one I have is cracked on the top, and has some obvious (and poor) repair on the bottom. I could weld and fix it, but I was thinking of using the ECE extreme drop crossmember. Anyone else use this?

I'll be glad to be done with the dirty parts.