Newbie thinking about diving into a '65 GMC 1000

[Praxiss454]

Hi all,
Lurked here for a bit, and figured I should register. A bit about me: always done my own maintenance, and have done some tuneups on naturally aspirated motorcycle engines, but have never taken on any kind of project like a 50+ yr old truck.

I'm considering buying a 1965 GMC pickup from a colleague who acquired it as part of an estate and doesn't know much about the history. According to the VIN, it is a 1965 GMC 1000 with an inline engine (guessing a 230?) with the 115" wheelbase, built in Fremont, CA and a GVW <6000 lbs.

From the pics it looks like the interior is in rough shape, but the body appears to be in pretty good shape. The door jamb is a red/orange color, but the exterior of the truck is white so I'm guessing it was repainted at least once. I have not actually seen the truck in person yet, going out there this weekend. My purpose for this truck would be just a hobby truck to tinker with, fix up a bit, and turn into a daily driver around town or to the beach. Nothing too fancy, and not a full restoration.

Here's what I know:
1. all 4 tires are flat and won't hold air
2. appears to be missing ignition cylinder, which was possibly replaced with a push button start. Also no battery
3. colleague says seals around the glass are in decent shape
4. no major rust holes visible inside or out but hasn't been scrutinized
5. It was registered up until 2012, when it was then registered as non-operating
6. Registration has been updated by current owner and is up to date (non-op)

Here's what I don't know:
1. When was the last time it started up?
2. Is the engine seized up?
3. Is the transmission functional?

Questions I'm hoping folks on this board can answer:
1. Do you see any glaring red flags from the images I've posted?
2. Are there any obvious modifications or other non-standard things about this truck? (e.g. does the engine look right, the bed look right?)
3. Specifically, are the grill and the tail fender of the truck stock?
4. What do you think it's worth, given the knowns and unknowns? Would you call me crazy if I paid $500? $1000? $1500? etc

Thanks all for reading, and looking forward to hearing your responses and getting to know ya.

[42_NATO]

Looks pretty good. If it was register till 2012 it probably ran then. Whats he asking. Depending on your pocket and how much it needs to run. I would pay any were from 1000 to 1800. Also if its near you slapping a battery and some starer fluid to see if it starts wouldnt be a bad idea.

[Praxiss454]

The figure he threw out was $2k, including the back registration he had to pay which was a few hundred bucks. The way I'm looking at it is it needs new tires at a minimum, and I'd need to get it towed 130 miles to my house if it doesn't run. Guessing $400 or more for that tow. So I'd like to be all in for $2k or less including tires and tow, not $3k.

When I go see it I was going to toss a battery in and see if it will turn over.

[jtrichard]

You need to check with DMV and see if it is NON-OP'D IF yes then it is worth at least $1500 ..... The bed alone is worth about 1200/1500 and the license plates about $200 with the truck (if you want correct plates for the year)

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

You need to check with DMV and see if it is NON-OP'D IF yes then it is worth at least $1500 ..... The bed alone is worth about 1200/1500 and the license plates about $200 with the truck (if you want correct plates for the year)

Good news from DMV. Title is now transferred and registered to me, and I get to keep the plates. The lady @ DMV said it appears those are the original plates, or at least a previous owner had proof the # was registered w/ that truck in the past.

[42_NATO]

Getting a set of used tires is a good idea if u dont know how long your going to take to get running. It also gives u a chance to change wheels in the future and not waste brand tires. Try to talk him down and get it at a comfortable price.

[jtrichard]

With a clean title and what i can see of the cab and front end I would say more like 2000/2500 range I bet the guys back east would jump at 3000/4000

[aerotruk63]

Stop at a truck stop wash on the way home with it and have them acid wash it.
Original fan went through the rad and now sports an aftermarket fan.
The radiator baffle's are missing.
Not the original heater hoses or clamps.
Get rid of the excess rubber fuel line a route it as original in steel.
The additional lights below the taillights are not original. Could be covered up with original reflectors.
Spring type battery cables?
JTRICHARD is quite right but I feel from what I've been looking at this truck would go for more here in the east.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Get rid of the excess rubber fuel line a route it as original in steel.

How did it run as original? I don't like how mine runs across the top of the valve cover. However, I do like having a fuel filter in line, but I could relocate that down under the cab where the PO had spliced in an electric fuel pump, which is now removed.

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

The additional lights below the taillights are not original. Could be covered up with original reflectors.

Those weren't a factory option at all? They are wired as lights currently, not sure if turn signals or running/parking lights. I haven't looked at the housing at all to see what kind of install job it is.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

How did it run as original? I don't like how mine runs across the top of the valve cover. However, I do like having a fuel filter in line, but I could relocate that down under the cab where the PO had spliced in an electric fuel pump, which is now removed.

Something like this:





There should be no rubber between the pump and carb, only pump and frame where the engine can move independently from the frame, same from the frame to the cab, a short piece of rubber there. That is where I have my inline filter. I like it better there anyway, keeps junk from getting to the pump. My steel line is a replacement I ordered from Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-ctc1011-ss but it's made by inline tube who I think makes them all, LMC, Classic parts, etc. It did not fit worth dog crap, and that seems to be the consensus from what I've read. Took a fair amount of manipulation to get it on there. If you can find an original that hasn't been cut to add a filter to the middle of it, that would probably be the way to go.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Something like this.

Thanks for the pics and explanation. I have rubber in multiple places now, but I think I did switch the filter to be pre pump already.

[aerotruk63]

Set your mind at ease and buy the shop manual when you get the truck.

[Praxiss454]

Thanks everyone, very helpful information.

I also got these three pics of the interior. Here are a few things I notice.

1. Seat and carpet need to be reupholstered
2. Steering wheel might be cracked near the spokes
3. Looks like at least one aftermarket gauge and one or more additions/changes to the knobs and levers in the dash, including removal of the ignition with possible replacement as a push button start.

[TJ's Chevy]

Would be worth $1500 to me in a heart beat. That will be a 230 or 250 on there. Good solid motors. I'd be searching for a GMC Big block V6 to throw in there.

[old cool]

I am reaching 20 plus grand on a nice looking '66 short bed Custom series. Even at that amount, the truck has needed some work mechanically. The Dana 44, rear main, slip yoke seal, pinion seal (also needed redi sleeve and new bearing) all leaked. My lifters were quieted with mid range viscosity oil with zinc. I also put it a pint of Reslone lifter treatment. As a neglected PU, you can almost count on brake work and other things as mentioned by previous threads. (always great help from this forum). These are not complicated trucks. I found ground connections need to be addressed before panicking that something is not working. Dash cluster comes out with 5 screws, undo the speedo cable, and one 10 prong plug. (I put lots of PB blaster in speedo cable at took care of wobble in speedometer needle.
NOW for the good points.
1. short bed fleet side!!!!!
2. factory tachometer. rarely found
3.It looks orginal with possibly being red originally. WOW that could mean $$$

FYI: hood, grill parts, dash parts, hub caps are not repopped. Got to find on internet.
Almost forgot, I would be most concerned with solid body than mechanics. If needed, a small block is basically a bolt in.

Restoration is expensive but there are guys with know-how that would jump at that truck if its solid and capable of being registered. make sure VIN number in upper door jam matches all other paper work.

[Praxiss454]

Thx old cool for the info. It'd be cool to fix this up and bring it back to my home state (MI) for the Woodward Dream Cruise.

Does anyone know a good resource to see original stock colors for interior and exterior? Ive found tons of custom truck pics but not many originals. I'd like to see what this truck could have looked like in red if that was the original color.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by old cool

3.It looks orginal with possibly being red originally. WOW that could mean $$$

What do you mean? Is red a rare color or something? Since it's been painted white I guess I don't know what that would matter anymore, but like I said I'm a newbie.

[65 GMC]

I would pay around $3,000 for one in Kansas that is that solid. I have a 65 GMC long bed in the garage I'm working on right now, I will be at least $300 to $400 in sheet metal not to mention the hours I will have to spend repairing the rotted panels. And that one is a short bed to boot. I say go for it. At $2,000 it is almost worth a road trip to bring something that nice to Kansas.

[65 GMC]

Just noticed the tach in the dash, is it factory?

[old cool]

Hi again Praxis, (a name I've seen is educational books)
Check out title ---most original 60-66 truck in existence?
thread 439322
you'll find this thread very helpful. have fun.

[old cool]

almost forgot. be careful when starting. old gas and tank could become an issue.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by old cool

almost forgot. be careful when starting. old gas and tank could become an issue.

This is very important. Crud in tank will mess up a constant flow of fuel. Pull the tank and have it cleaned out and sealed. Your engine appears to be original. GMC engines were painted red from factory. GMC engine codes are not the same as Chevy. Very little is known about GMC engine codes, info is just not out there.

[jbgroby]

No, the factory tack looks like this, as well as the factory clock.

Originally Posted by 65 GMC

Just noticed the tach in the dash, is it factory?

[jtrichard]

After seeing it with the drivers door open one of the first things to do is install NEW door checks so you don't F up the doors other than that the things you brought up are normal after all it is a 50 year old truck.... AND as for starting it I would NOT use the main tank, get a gallon jug (up high) and some 5/16 fuel hose and start a siphon and hook it straight to the carb

[aerotruk63]

You have the deluxe gauge panel as well. Return to keyed ignition would not be that difficult.