Need larger radiator for 71 C10 with L6

[Carl Spangler]

Greetings

My 71 C10 with 250 needs a new radiator.

It has the original size (2 core?) thin radiator. If I'm going to replace this radiator I'd like to add some capacity. What size would fit in this truck? Would be nice to replace with a 3-4 core radiator.

Here's the radiator that's currently in the truck. I'm assuming it's either the original or an original-replacement.



The two top tank hold down clamps are spaced 26.5" center-center.

thanks

[Carl Spangler]

Are the plastic tank and aluminum core radiators decent or junk?

Edit: Did a quick search and it looks like plastic tank radiators are pretty much standard now.

I'll probably order an NPD radiator.

[bubbasimms]

Hey Carl,
I know this is a year old post but what did you end up doing to solve your radiator issue. I am now in the same boat you were a year ago and looking for a radiator.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

Hey Carl,
I know this is a year old post but what did you end up doing to solve your radiator issue. I am now in the same boat you were a year ago and looking for a radiator.

He hasn't been on since 10/22/18 but you never know when someone will pop back in......

Just a heads up.

LockDoc

[special-K]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

Hey Carl,
I know this is a year old post but what did you end up doing to solve your radiator issue. I am now in the same boat you were a year ago and looking for a radiator.

Just get a 3 or 4 core radiator for this year truck. You will need the corresponding hold downs and lower saddles. They are found on the parts board pretty regularly

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

Hey Carl,
I know this is a year old post but what did you end up doing to solve your radiator issue. I am now in the same boat you were a year ago and looking for a radiator.

I bought a 3 core all metal radiator. I can't remember the vendor name but the tag on the top indicates VCCS H201-2. It was just under $200 including shipping.

I also installed an overflow tank and a 10# cap. The "low pressure" cap allows the coolant to partially fill the overflow tank every time the engine is run warm-hot. When the engine cools the fluid is sucked back into the radiator/engine. This discharge-refill process eventually fills all of the air voids in the engine. At that point there is maximum heat transfer from the hot parts of the head into the coolant system. The whole coolant system works fabulous now and the low pressure (10#) cap means the system isn't being stressed with high pressure. Works GREAT!

[Carl Spangler]

Quick update after another minor mod:

I switched out the 10# radiator cap to a 7 pound Stant 10328 Lev-R-Vent cap. With the new 3 core radiator this truck rarely hits 190 degrees and the 7 pound cap with overflow tank works perfecto!

[Barnfind46]

Glad to see it all worked out!

[gmc684x4]

From reading up some aluminum rads can cool better from being able to have larger wider tubes then old 4 core copper rads

Stock caps are 15 psi with overflow tank i would be inclined to look for a cap at 15 psi with overflow capability

Places like rock auto list all aluminium rads for our trucks

[Andy4639]

Best radiator you can buy for the money and it's all aluminum no plastic. I have one in my 71 C-10, 67 Ramp truck, 64 SS Impala and had one in the 56 Bel Air. Not one problem out of them and they run cooler than the stock ones.


https://picclick.com/68mm-Aluminum-R...850583294.html

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

From reading up some aluminum rads can cool better from being able to have larger wider tubes then old 4 core copper rads

Stock caps are 15 psi with overflow tank i would be inclined to look for a cap at 15 psi with overflow capability

Places like rock auto list all aluminium rads for our trucks

I have heard that 13 PSI is normal for trucks w/o A/C and 16 PSI for trucks with A/C, but I ain't the Pope, so I could be wrong. The higher pressure cap raises the temp needed to boil over.
I put a wider V8-type radiator in front of the 292 L6 in my '68 C/10, when I found the L6 width was NLA.
Mine's still a copper/brass type. Do you have to use the Orange antifreeze in an aluminum radiator?

[Carl Spangler]

In my continuing cooling fine tuning I just swapped out the 195 degree F thermostat for a 180 degree. The cooling system is working GREAT with the 180 degree thermostat, 7 lb radiator cap, and reservoir.

[HotWheelsFan]

Might try a body shop that restores vintage vehicles...

By chance my friend (body man at a resto shop) got me a new rad for free. he had 3 of them from resto jobs done in the past 6 mos. to year...


Mine was a 1970 HD brass $250 retail, $100 used easy. Free...


Shipping is no fun, find local...


Bob

['68OrangeSunshine]

I just installed a reservoir of the '78 Nova type in my '68 Stepside. Looks great. However, the overflow outlet on the radiator neck points hard right, and with a new battery tray bracket, there's not enough room to hook up a a hose to the reservoir, the battery's in the way.
[Sorry now ''After'' picture yet.]

[Dad's72]

Is there any benefit to having the original radiator fixed? I called a local radiator shop in town and they said they would do a full clean and then pressure test to fix any leaks. They said it will be like new when they are done with it.
I think it would look better than a shiny aluminum radiator in a 50 year old truck. I guess my logic is, if it worked for this many years shouldn't it be okay for the same stock motor in the truck?

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

Is there any benefit to having the original radiator fixed? I called a local radiator shop in town and they said they would do a full clean and then pressure test to fix any leaks. They said it will be like new when they are done with it.
I think it would look better than a shiny aluminum radiator in a 50 year old truck. I guess my logic is, if it worked for this many years shouldn't it be okay for the same stock motor in the truck?

Don't know about Texas but here in Kalifornia the EPA has basically put the old style radiator repair out of business. No more acid baths to properly clean the cores, tanks, etc.

That's why all my classics are running Champion Aluminum Radiators, zero problems including one that's been in for 20 years now.

Otis my avatar has a Champion Radiator w/electric fans guaranteed to cool up to 1000 HP, I have no where near 1000 HP, but I got lots of cooling. 100+ degree days with A/C on in town/slow traffic no problems whatsoever.

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

Is there any benefit to having the original radiator fixed? I called a local radiator shop in town and they said they would do a full clean and then pressure test to fix any leaks. They said it will be like new when they are done with it.
I think it would look better than a shiny aluminum radiator in a 50 year old truck. I guess my logic is, if it worked for this many years shouldn't it be okay for the same stock motor in the truck?

The copper 3-row I put in my L6 truck looks virtually identical to the original 2-row. When hauling heaving loads up long hills the 2 row couldn't keep the engine temp stable. The new 3-row keeps the engine temp very stable under similar heavy loads.