Prioritization Ideas on Rebuild - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Lobo'74 · 08-08-2003, 09:43 AM

Oil change on the '67 yesterday and my first opportunity to walk around underneith it. On the positive side the mechanics there all thought it was in great shape for a '67 and was better than their '79.

On the negitive side the big items are:

-No floor support on passenger side rear. That cab corner FILLED with bondo

-All other floor supports in various degress of rusting out

-Floor edges on both sides are fiberglassed in(from top. glass cloth sticking through to underside. Firm, but definately repaired from above). Seems to be solid, but not good for long term

-Passenger side rear cab attachment point rubber "bumper" split and dangling around rusted bolt. Mech said that could be a no go on an inspection sticker.

-Passenger side front inner fender has huge hole in front section directly under the battery. Driver's side has a small one (a fifty cent piece size) in the same area.

-Transverse rod from rear drivers side frame to differential case has quite a bit of surface rust. Still strong but a replacement candidate.

- Outer edges of the metal dashboard have holes in them. Very small on driver's side, about 3/4 inch wide by 2 to 2 1/2 inches long on passenger side. Painted over, no red streaks showing.

I am going to guess that if the floor edges are 'glassed that the toe kick areas on the sides inside the cab are too. I think I can see the 'glass cloth pattern on a portion of the passenger side toe kick area.

OK. If I had deep pockets this would be a no brainer - just get it all fixed. Reality being different I need to do this in a logical manner that keeps the truck safe (absolute priority), roadworthy to the maximum extent possible, and no labor (or $) intensive temporary fixes that just have to be redone to "do it right".

I also need to change out the 2 per side glass packs, put in a double electric fan and shroud, and replace all the side window and vent rubber as well as the above body work.

For now I think the priority should be:
-the side windows and vents first
-The cab attach point rubber bumpers (rear especially)
-Electric fans and shroud (anyone ever use the "Radiator/Condenser Dual Fan Assembly" PN ME869 from the Jim Carter Catalog?) It runs hot now, this is a priority.
-Get rid of glass packs for Flowmaster or Magnaflow.

After that, the floor supports need to be addressed but to do THAT the floor has to be fixed doesn't it? When welding on new supports are they welded to the floor? If so it seems that has to be fixed first. If they are only welded to the FRAME then that would be next item to fix
-Floor supports
-Floor and cab corner and toe kick panels last

THEN
-Front inner fender replacement Pass side, repair driver side
-take off bed, clean fame and components and underside of bed and paint on POR15
-Do same with as much of forward frame as can be done with cab in place

Having no experience with this other than reading the "How to restore your Chevrolet Truck", various classic truck mags, and this board, how does this sound so far?

I will be on the road this weekend and won't be able to see responses until next week, but thanks in advance for any information and ideas.

*Randy70C-10* · 08-08-2003, 11:29 AM

I just got some floor supports from Atheys truck parts in Front Royal. They were only $15 each and slip right over the old ones.

Lobo'74 · 08-08-2003, 11:42 AM

Do they weld on to the frame and NOT the floor itself?

Also, pass side rear is missing completely. I would think a slip on would fit in the same spot and weld up OK, just nothing to slip over.

Lobo'74 · 08-08-2003, 11:47 AM

By the way, Randy70C-10, I see you are in VA Beach area. Any street rod clubs in central VA? I'm in Charlottesville and looking for one.

*Randy70C-10* · 08-08-2003, 11:58 AM

Depends on what you mean by "Street Rod".

I have a 1930 Model A and I'm a member of the Southeast Virginia Street Rod Assoc. The cut-off date for our club is 1959. Most Street Rod clubs are 1948 and earlier. There are a few clubs that are into later model stuff as well, but I'll have to research. Actually, a good place to start is the Virginia Peninsula Car Club Counsel. Here is a link to their site: http://www.vpccc.org

Lobo'74 · 08-08-2003, 12:03 PM

I'll give them a look. Thanks

08-08-2003, 09:43 AM	#1
Lobo'74 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Charlottesville, VA Posts: 404	Prioritization Ideas on Rebuild Oil change on the '67 yesterday and my first opportunity to walk around underneith it. On the positive side the mechanics there all thought it was in great shape for a '67 and was better than their '79. On the negitive side the big items are: -No floor support on passenger side rear. That cab corner FILLED with bondo -All other floor supports in various degress of rusting out -Floor edges on both sides are fiberglassed in(from top. glass cloth sticking through to underside. Firm, but definately repaired from above). Seems to be solid, but not good for long term -Passenger side rear cab attachment point rubber "bumper" split and dangling around rusted bolt. Mech said that could be a no go on an inspection sticker. -Passenger side front inner fender has huge hole in front section directly under the battery. Driver's side has a small one (a fifty cent piece size) in the same area. -Transverse rod from rear drivers side frame to differential case has quite a bit of surface rust. Still strong but a replacement candidate. - Outer edges of the metal dashboard have holes in them. Very small on driver's side, about 3/4 inch wide by 2 to 2 1/2 inches long on passenger side. Painted over, no red streaks showing. I am going to guess that if the floor edges are 'glassed that the toe kick areas on the sides inside the cab are too. I think I can see the 'glass cloth pattern on a portion of the passenger side toe kick area. OK. If I had deep pockets this would be a no brainer - just get it all fixed. Reality being different I need to do this in a logical manner that keeps the truck safe (absolute priority), roadworthy to the maximum extent possible, and no labor (or $) intensive temporary fixes that just have to be redone to "do it right". I also need to change out the 2 per side glass packs, put in a double electric fan and shroud, and replace all the side window and vent rubber as well as the above body work. For now I think the priority should be: -the side windows and vents first -The cab attach point rubber bumpers (rear especially) -Electric fans and shroud (anyone ever use the "Radiator/Condenser Dual Fan Assembly" PN ME869 from the Jim Carter Catalog?) It runs hot now, this is a priority. -Get rid of glass packs for Flowmaster or Magnaflow. After that, the floor supports need to be addressed but to do THAT the floor has to be fixed doesn't it? When welding on new supports are they welded to the floor? If so it seems that has to be fixed first. If they are only welded to the FRAME then that would be next item to fix -Floor supports -Floor and cab corner and toe kick panels last THEN -Front inner fender replacement Pass side, repair driver side -take off bed, clean fame and components and underside of bed and paint on POR15 -Do same with as much of forward frame as can be done with cab in place Having no experience with this other than reading the "How to restore your Chevrolet Truck", various classic truck mags, and this board, how does this sound so far? I will be on the road this weekend and won't be able to see responses until next week, but thanks in advance for any information and ideas. __________________ "Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone"

08-08-2003, 11:42 AM	#3
Lobo'74 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Charlottesville, VA Posts: 404	Slip ons Do they weld on to the frame and NOT the floor itself? Also, pass side rear is missing completely. I would think a slip on would fit in the same spot and weld up OK, just nothing to slip over. __________________ "Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone"

08-08-2003, 11:47 AM	#4
Lobo'74 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Charlottesville, VA Posts: 404	Central VA clubs? By the way, Randy70C-10, I see you are in VA Beach area. Any street rod clubs in central VA? I'm in Charlottesville and looking for one. __________________ "Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone"

08-08-2003, 12:03 PM	#6
Lobo'74 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Charlottesville, VA Posts: 404	thanks I'll give them a look. Thanks __________________ "Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone"

08-08-2003, 11:29 AM	#2
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	I just got some floor supports from Atheys truck parts in Front Royal. They were only $15 each and slip right over the old ones.

08-08-2003, 11:58 AM	#5
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	Depends on what you mean by "Street Rod". I have a 1930 Model A and I'm a member of the Southeast Virginia Street Rod Assoc. The cut-off date for our club is 1959. Most Street Rod clubs are 1948 and earlier. There are a few clubs that are into later model stuff as well, but I'll have to research. Actually, a good place to start is the Virginia Peninsula Car Club Counsel. Here is a link to their site: http://www.vpccc.org



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.