Bought bags/Bag Pro's?/Wiring valves?/Custom Push button momentary switches? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Reumster · 02-26-2003, 08:59 PM

I have my bags and switches, tanks etc... need advice for install.

My question is can I run the ground to the push button momentary switches instead of the power wire?

Also anyone know where I can get nice billet LED "mini" pushbutton momentary switches?

REAR BAG SPACERS? NOT ANOUGH LIFT

maxium lift problem? Without a c-notch I noticed that the bags will not compress all the way when the u bolts are sitting on the cut factory bump stops. My idea is to shim the rear bags untill they are like a 1/4" from bottoming out the bag. When sitting on the rear bump stops. Then I will acheive maxium travel and lift out of the rear bags? Then when I get my c-notch I'll take the shims/spacers out from under the rear bags.

What are all your thoughts on this?

I will be taking alot of pictures of the install.

I bought bags, valves and compressors from Larry at Innovative

http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/

And a bunch of stuff from Dave at Early Classics

http://www.earlyclassic.com/

hidden hitch, panhard kit,shock relocator kit.........

Reumster · 02-26-2003, 10:43 PM

Help Slammed 67/XXL? Bag guys? Throw me a bone here people! LOL

Slammed67 · 02-26-2003, 11:17 PM

Yeah, you can shim up the rear bags. I think some kits come with brackets for the rear bags, which will raise them also. Did you buy a kit or are you going to make up your own brackets? I think you'll find that without shimming up the rear bags, the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height anyway. That is the problem I'm encountering. I could shim my rear bags up, but I want maximum DROP, not maximum LIFT. Therefore, I'm gonna notch my front cross member to bring the front down a little to even it out. As for wiring the switches, you could run the grounds to the switches, but it'll be the same amount of wire, so I'm not sure what the advantage is.

orange72 · 02-26-2003, 11:17 PM

why does it matter if the bag is bottomed out or not? its not gonna make a difference

orange72 · 02-26-2003, 11:47 PM

oh i think i misunderstood that question

pissonNOS · 02-27-2003, 01:23 AM

i think you did haha have to post pics when u get it done

Reumster · 02-27-2003, 10:29 AM

TTT

sneakysnake · 02-27-2003, 11:31 AM

On running the ground, if the solonoids have only one wire you will have to isolate them from the body, for the case is how it is designed to get its ground, if it has two , then its a matter of running a all time hot and putting a switch to ground to complete the curcuit

Reumster · 02-27-2003, 04:41 PM

Picture of my valve set-up.

What your looking at are 3/8" valves, using high pressure crimp on 5000psi hose. The fittings are JIC/AN which ever term you use. #6 hose, and or 3/8"

I plan on the front using 1/2" valves and hose.

Reumster · 02-27-2003, 04:47 PM

Ok I'm letting you all in on my new idea. This is my secret switch box. The board the mini momentary push button switches are mounted to is, G-10 Garolite black. This is just what I had at the time. I'm going to be using Carbon fiber eventually.

Reumster · 02-27-2003, 04:49 PM

This is the ashtray out, and a sample piece of the Carbon material I'll be using, for the final product.

If anyone is interested I can whip these ashtray inserts up. My problem now is finding good quality mini push button momentary switches. I'd like to find billet ones.

Reumster · 02-27-2003, 07:04 PM

These Radio Shack switches in the picture in the ashtray suck! They stick. I need lower profile ones too. Anyone know where to get good ones? I can't wait to get my ALuminum tanks tommarrow. Then it's time to test.

Slammed67 · 02-27-2003, 08:29 PM

Just curious....... Why not just use DOT approved air line and push-in fittings? I would think it'd be cheaper and easier to install than what you are using.

XXL · 02-27-2003, 11:47 PM

Thread hijack alert...

I just lost one corner of my air ride today. The right rear "up" is not responding. It's definitely the solenoid itself. I had this happen once before (when I first moved to MA in winter 2001) and Air Ride Technologies promptly replaced it with a brand new piece. I've pinged them via email about what to do with the one that's sticking now but I suspect they're going to tell me it's OOW (out of warranty). So... questions arise-- 1) has anyone else had this kind of failure problem, 2) what kind of valves should I use if I decide to toss the ART ones I have now, and 3) what's for lunch?

I don't even dump the truck that often... maybe a couple of times per month, but I would like it to be VERY reliable (which it has been for the most part for the last 3 1/2 years).

OK, next related topic. My pressure switch died as well. Any suggestions for an inexpensive 120 psi or so switch?

BTW, for this whole thread, I suppose I should add... the truck is kept in a 50° garage-- except today, when I high-centered the truck on some snow in front of the garage. I was backing out and got it stuck on the center crossmember, so the truck sat half in and half out of the garage all day. It was about 25° F today. It is now back in the garage, hopefully getting warm and toasty.

Kenneth

JHickson6 · 02-28-2003, 01:54 AM

Hey i'm a little late here, but I just have a question for Slammed67, you said the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height. Why is that, what about putting more air in the rear bags to level it out? Or am i missing something here?
Thanks Man

Jared

pissonNOS · 02-28-2003, 01:57 AM

REUMSTER what kind of deck is that?

Dropt72Shortbed · 02-28-2003, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by XXL
Thread hijack alert...

I just lost one corner of my air ride today. The right rear "up" is not responding. It's definitely the solenoid itself. I had this happen once before (when I first moved to MA in winter 2001) and Air Ride Technologies promptly replaced it with a brand new piece. I've pinged them via email about what to do with the one that's sticking now but I suspect they're going to tell me it's OOW (out of warranty). So... questions arise-- 1) has anyone else had this kind of failure problem, 2) what kind of valves should I use if I decide to toss the ART ones I have now, and 3) what's for lunch?

I don't even dump the truck that often... maybe a couple of times per month, but I would like it to be VERY reliable (which it has been for the most part for the last 3 1/2 years).

OK, next related topic. My pressure switch died as well. Any suggestions for an inexpensive 120 psi or so switch?

BTW, for this whole thread, I suppose I should add... the truck is kept in a 50° garage-- except today, when I high-centered the truck on some snow in front of the garage. I was backing out and got it stuck on the center crossmember, so the truck sat half in and half out of the garage all day. It was about 25° F today. It is now back in the garage, hopefully getting warm and toasty.

Kenneth

have you drained your tank to see if theres any moisture in it? im not positive but i recall hearing that moisture in the system can hurt some types of valves, i think some guys use water traps/seperators. however here in california none of my friends use em and they have no problems.

Reumster · 02-28-2003, 10:23 AM

Ok now we're getting some knowledge on in this topic.

Slammed67 to answer your question about the crazy over kill hose. FREE!!!! LOL I made them at work. So you think the 4 wire hydralic hose is a tid bit overkill!! LOL

Cheaper but not easier to install.

XXL my valves are SMC that I got at http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/

XXL did you put air tool oil in your compressor hose when you installed the comp for the first time? also put a drop or two in each valve on the in side before installing. Do you have drain valves on your tank/s? Do you have a oil/water seperator?

Next I found some cool air gauges that I'll post pictures of soon.

Any ideas on good temperary micro push button switches?

Slammed67 · 02-28-2003, 03:19 PM

JHickson6:

I could put more air in the rears but then it rides too rough. I could lower the front air pressure, but then again, I'd compromise my ride height. I could also shim my rear bags as Reumster mentioned, but then I'd lose my maximum DROP, which is one of the main reasons I got the bags in the first place. So the only solution I see is to drop the front more to level it out. I like the rear height at "ride height" so I'm gonna bring the front end down to match. Make sense?

SCOTI · 02-28-2003, 09:39 PM

Ok, I learned this from XXL so you can blame him (how to hi-jack)....j/k.... Slammed, I'm curious, what psi are you running & what are the measurements @ the c/l of your wheel openings @ ride height. I want to compare to my set-up. Thanks, Scot

XXL · 02-28-2003, 10:31 PM

Speaking of thread-jacking... various drop measurements are in this old thread which I managed to hijack as well. Oops.

BTW, here's Slammed67's in action...

Kenneth

DanoDMano · 02-28-2003, 10:43 PM

Way cool XXL!!!!!!!!

XXL · 02-28-2003, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DanoDMano
Way cool XXL!!!!!!!!

That's Slammed67's truck and his photos. All I did was string them together.

Kenneth

DanoDMano · 02-28-2003, 10:57 PM

Slammed67, that is an awesome looking ride!!

JHickson6 · 02-28-2003, 11:20 PM

Thanks Slammed it all makes sense now. Thanks Again!

02-26-2003, 08:59 PM	#1
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Bought bags/Bag Pro's?/Wiring valves?/Custom Push button momentary switches? I have my bags and switches, tanks etc... need advice for install. My question is can I run the ground to the push button momentary switches instead of the power wire? Also anyone know where I can get nice billet LED "mini" pushbutton momentary switches? REAR BAG SPACERS? NOT ANOUGH LIFT maxium lift problem? Without a c-notch I noticed that the bags will not compress all the way when the u bolts are sitting on the cut factory bump stops. My idea is to shim the rear bags untill they are like a 1/4" from bottoming out the bag. When sitting on the rear bump stops. Then I will acheive maxium travel and lift out of the rear bags? Then when I get my c-notch I'll take the shims/spacers out from under the rear bags. What are all your thoughts on this? I will be taking alot of pictures of the install. I bought bags, valves and compressors from Larry at Innovative http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/ And a bunch of stuff from Dave at Early Classics http://www.earlyclassic.com/ hidden hitch, panhard kit,shock relocator kit......... __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-26-2003, 10:43 PM	#2
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Help Slammed 67/XXL? Bag guys? Throw me a bone here people! LOL __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-26-2003, 11:17 PM	#3
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Yeah, you can shim up the rear bags. I think some kits come with brackets for the rear bags, which will raise them also. Did you buy a kit or are you going to make up your own brackets? I think you'll find that without shimming up the rear bags, the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height anyway. That is the problem I'm encountering. I could shim my rear bags up, but I want maximum DROP, not maximum LIFT. Therefore, I'm gonna notch my front cross member to bring the front down a little to even it out. As for wiring the switches, you could run the grounds to the switches, but it'll be the same amount of wire, so I'm not sure what the advantage is. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

02-26-2003, 11:17 PM	#4
orange72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: huntington,texas,united states Posts: 399	why does it matter if the bag is bottomed out or not? its not gonna make a difference __________________ 1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4.

02-26-2003, 11:47 PM	#5
orange72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: huntington,texas,united states Posts: 399	oh i think i misunderstood that question __________________ 1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4.

02-27-2003, 01:23 AM	#6
pissonNOS senior member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: fort macleod alberta Posts: 2,770	i think you did haha have to post pics when u get it done __________________ 69 GMC bagged

02-27-2003, 10:29 AM	#7
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	TTT __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-27-2003, 11:31 AM	#8
sneakysnake It's a catastrophic success. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,077	On running the ground, if the solonoids have only one wire you will have to isolate them from the body, for the case is how it is designed to get its ground, if it has two , then its a matter of running a all time hot and putting a switch to ground to complete the curcuit

02-27-2003, 04:41 PM	#9
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Picture of my valve set-up. What your looking at are 3/8" valves, using high pressure crimp on 5000psi hose. The fittings are JIC/AN which ever term you use. #6 hose, and or 3/8" I plan on the front using 1/2" valves and hose. Attached Images __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL Last edited by Reumster; 02-27-2003 at 04:44 PM.

02-27-2003, 04:47 PM	#10
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Ok I'm letting you all in on my new idea. This is my secret switch box. The board the mini momentary push button switches are mounted to is, G-10 Garolite black. This is just what I had at the time. I'm going to be using Carbon fiber eventually. Attached Images __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-27-2003, 04:49 PM	#11
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	This is the ashtray out, and a sample piece of the Carbon material I'll be using, for the final product. If anyone is interested I can whip these ashtray inserts up. My problem now is finding good quality mini push button momentary switches. I'd like to find billet ones. Attached Images __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-27-2003, 07:04 PM	#12
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	These Radio Shack switches in the picture in the ashtray suck! They stick. I need lower profile ones too. Anyone know where to get good ones? I can't wait to get my ALuminum tanks tommarrow. Then it's time to test. __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-27-2003, 08:29 PM	#13
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Just curious....... Why not just use DOT approved air line and push-in fittings? I would think it'd be cheaper and easier to install than what you are using. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

02-27-2003, 11:47 PM	#14
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Thread hijack alert... I just lost one corner of my air ride today. The right rear "up" is not responding. It's definitely the solenoid itself. I had this happen once before (when I first moved to MA in winter 2001) and Air Ride Technologies promptly replaced it with a brand new piece. I've pinged them via email about what to do with the one that's sticking now but I suspect they're going to tell me it's OOW (out of warranty). So... questions arise-- 1) has anyone else had this kind of failure problem, 2) what kind of valves should I use if I decide to toss the ART ones I have now, and 3) what's for lunch? I don't even dump the truck that often... maybe a couple of times per month, but I would like it to be VERY reliable (which it has been for the most part for the last 3 1/2 years). OK, next related topic. My pressure switch died as well. Any suggestions for an inexpensive 120 psi or so switch? BTW, for this whole thread, I suppose I should add... the truck is kept in a 50° garage-- except today, when I high-centered the truck on some snow in front of the garage. I was backing out and got it stuck on the center crossmember, so the truck sat half in and half out of the garage all day. It was about 25° F today. It is now back in the garage, hopefully getting warm and toasty. Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

02-28-2003, 01:54 AM	#15
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	Hey i'm a little late here, but I just have a question for Slammed67, you said the front will sit higher than the rear at ride height. Why is that, what about putting more air in the rear bags to level it out? Or am i missing something here? Thanks Man Jared __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!



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02-28-2003, 01:57 AM	#16
pissonNOS senior member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: fort macleod alberta Posts: 2,770	REUMSTER what kind of deck is that? __________________ 69 GMC bagged

02-28-2003, 10:23 AM	#18
Reumster L.E.D. Freak Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Polson MT Posts: 1,358	Ok now we're getting some knowledge on in this topic. Slammed67 to answer your question about the crazy over kill hose. FREE!!!! LOL I made them at work. So you think the 4 wire hydralic hose is a tid bit overkill!! LOL Cheaper but not easier to install. XXL my valves are SMC that I got at http://www.innovativeairsuspension.com/ XXL did you put air tool oil in your compressor hose when you installed the comp for the first time? also put a drop or two in each valve on the in side before installing. Do you have drain valves on your tank/s? Do you have a oil/water seperator? Next I found some cool air gauges that I'll post pictures of soon. Any ideas on good temperary micro push button switches? __________________ Specializing in Custom L.E.D. inserts. http://www.ccled.com/ Contact me @ blazer2wd1972@hotmail.com (406)675-8082 or Joel @ jmcwaters@eps-corp.net 1972 2wd Blazer, 350/700R4/3:73 posi, err & Custom L.E.D. inserts! LOL

02-28-2003, 03:19 PM	#19
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	JHickson6: I could put more air in the rears but then it rides too rough. I could lower the front air pressure, but then again, I'd compromise my ride height. I could also shim my rear bags as Reumster mentioned, but then I'd lose my maximum DROP, which is one of the main reasons I got the bags in the first place. So the only solution I see is to drop the front more to level it out. I like the rear height at "ride height" so I'm gonna bring the front end down to match. Make sense? __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

02-28-2003, 09:39 PM	#20
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	Ok, I learned this from XXL so you can blame him (how to hi-jack)....j/k.... Slammed, I'm curious, what psi are you running & what are the measurements @ the c/l of your wheel openings @ ride height. I want to compare to my set-up. Thanks, Scot __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

02-28-2003, 10:31 PM	#21
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Speaking of thread-jacking... various drop measurements are in this old thread which I managed to hijack as well. Oops. BTW, here's Slammed67's in action... Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

02-28-2003, 10:43 PM	#22
DanoDMano Pronounced "Pew-al-up" Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Puyallup, Washington Posts: 845	Way cool XXL!!!!!!!! __________________ Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos

02-28-2003, 10:57 PM	#24
DanoDMano Pronounced "Pew-al-up" Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Puyallup, Washington Posts: 845	Slammed67, that is an awesome looking ride!! __________________ Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos

02-28-2003, 11:20 PM	#25
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	Thanks Slammed it all makes sense now. Thanks Again! __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

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