Teenagers Dream

[YoungDreamer]

So i am new here, dont know a whole lot about trucks, but i know what i want! i love 63' C-10's and C-20's. SO i wanted some advice, maybe somebody could help me out.

What is a good price for a running C10?
Is it possible to do a diesel swap, what engine should i use?
Does anybody sell a lift kit for the 63?

Im looking to build a daily driver that will handle city driving for the most part but also dirt roads, and 85 mph highways. If you have any helpful tips i would love to learn anything i can.

[61_FL_Apache]

85MPH? You may want to think about a chassis swap.. You can have the best of both worlds.. Late model underneath with old school look on the outside.

[Ta2Don]

Welcome aboard!!! Expect up to about $2500, but hopefully less for a running driving truck. As for your other questions, there is a wealth of info out here. Just search and you will find. The FAQ Section is the best place to start. It is located on the 60-66 forum page. Have fun with your new Dream!

[YoungDreamer]

Not sure, but would using a C20 instead of a C10 be better for the diesel conversion? torque and frame strength wise

[1963c-10]

3/4 ton frame would be stronger, how much torque are you planning on getting? Quite a few 1/2 ton drag trucks out there.

[YoungDreamer]

Well in talking with my friends, they repair Diesel Fords for a living... They told me if i really wanted to go diesel to put in a Chevy 6.2 Diesel from a late 80's pickup, not sure the exact torque output. But they are supposedly affordable and easy to find

[naynay]

welcome, i grew up in richardson, went to yale and berkner (no apollo, though). i'd offer help/advice but my trucks go down not up good luck with everything.

[argonaut]

If you go the diesel route plan on also swapping in an overdrive transmission and some smaller ratio ring and pinion gears into the rear differential.
6.2 and 6.5 diesels swap in more easily because they mount to the frame just like a small block chevy and they share to same early chevy bellhousing pattern.
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[MadManAndrew]

6.2 and 6.5 swaps are the easiest, but neither are great engine. 6.2 is notoriously bad, actually. They get great mpg's, but produce less power and don't even last as long as smallblocks. 6.5's are reliable, just not "great". Cummins 6BT's are the most popular diesel swap. They are reliable, powerful, and get great mileage. They also only require one single wire to run. The con is that you have to fab your own motor mounts.
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[YoungDreamer]

Originally Posted by MadManAndrew

Cummins 6BT's are the most popular diesel swap. They are reliable, powerful, and get great mileage. They also only require one single wire to run. The con is that you have to fab your own motor mounts.
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Will i be able to cruise up to 90mph with the 6BT? i know i will have to get a lower gear ratio or something if im really intent on pushing the truck to that speed

[YoungDreamer]

How hard are to motor mounts? i have a mechanic friend who still owes me $300 in service if i bring him the vehicle and parts he can do just about everything to every motor vehicle

[markeb01]

Don't know the first thing about diesels or 4x4's, but welcome to the forum!

[argonaut]

On what road can you legally and/or safely "cruise" at 90mph (in a 50 year old rusty truck)?

No offense, but I think you are proving your username to be true...

Regardless, to answer your question, it all depends upon gearing. You could put a 2.73:1 gearset in your rear diff, and an overdrive transmission, and probably "cruise" your truck at 90mph on the highway all day.

I haven't done a 6BT cummins swap myself, but from what I've seen it is a very long and very heavy motor. SO it is a litle more involved than just some new motor mount brackets and one wire. You're talking suspension upgrade, modification to the firewall, fabrication of a front crossmember with motor mounts, exhaust, relocating the transmission and transfer case backward, getting driveshafts shortened/lengthened, etc.
I have seen people fit 4BTs in quite nicely.

[YoungDreamer]

Here in Texas we have an 85mph highway or two, being that's the road i have to take to visit my brother down south i would just like to have that option. If it can only cruise at 80 or 75 i will just have to find a way to get to my brother on a slower road

[naynay]

Originally Posted by YoungDreamer

Here in Texas we have an 85mph highway or two, being that's the road i have to take to visit my brother down south i would just like to have that option. If it can only cruise at 80 or 75 i will just have to find a way to get to my brother on a slower road

FWIW i travel dallas to austin every other weekend in my 89 bronco with a top speed of about 70.. its not a big deal, 85 is a max. not a min.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by naynay

FWIW i travel dallas to austin every other weekend in my 89 bronco with a top speed of about 70.. its not a big deal, 85 is a max. not a min.

+1 here. At that speed in an old truck you don't drive it, you aim it.

Remember you're pushing old horrible handling metal made to haul a herd of goats down a country backroad, not a brand new over-computerized Silverado made to go to home depot.


As for large engines, you could always lengthen the truck like Coyoterun did here




He's a great guy too. You could probably ask him if you had trouble.

[argonaut]

Yeah, I do seem to remember some high speed highways when I was in Texas. Although 85 is the limit it is still legal to drive a little slower in the right hand lane, right?

Anyway, if you do build your truck to dive 85+ on the highway, please also upgrade your braking system, suspension system and steering system so that they will be safe at those speeds. GM engineers designed these trucks to be driven at about 60mph or so on the highways in the 60s.

[YoungDreamer]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Yeah, I do seem to remember some high speed highways when I was in Texas. Although 85 is the limit it is still legal to drive a little slower in the right hand lane, right?

Anyway, if you do build your truck to dive 85+ on the highway, please also upgrade your braking system, suspension system and steering system so that they will be safe at those speeds. GM engineers designed these trucks to be driven at about 60mph or so on the highways in the 60s.

Of Course, the change to diesel should be one of the last changes i make. Im trying to find a good running tagged pickup now that will drive me to work everyday this summer. Every paycheck i will do a little more, starting with disk brake conversion and new power steering. Then Paint and interior, then rims. Then electronics. Then i will officially decided if i want to go diesel or not. I would like to go diesel and have stack and the whole 9 yards. But that may not be in line with my families current financial standing and if thats the case i will just clean up the engine already in the truck and drive it as is till i can afford the swap

[argonaut]

Regarding lift kit, the answer is no. But just because no one makes a lift kit, doesn't make it impossible. However there are some serious challenges.

First lets look at the rear:
The factory spring mounts relatively high on the frame, with a modest arch to it, and has a 5-1/2" block to achieve the proper ride height. For this reason you won't be simply bolting in a 4" or 6" block like on a cheap, late model truck lift kit. Also, the stock springs have unique eye diameters and bushings that are unlike most of the common lifted leaf springs. So you won't be able to simply order a 4" lift spring and install it. This all means custom spring hangers and shackles, or custom leaves. Both can be done, but neither is cheap or easy. I chose to use some later model spring hangers and some of my own fabricated mounts on my truck in order to use standard aftermarket lift springs.

Then the front:
Up front you can actually get away with using common lift springs from a 72. The lengths and widths are the same. The eyes are different, but you can have poly bushings turned down, bored out, and cut down to fit. It isn't the best design, but it will work. otherwise you need to do the same as the rear and use later model hangers and shackles to mount the later model springs.

[YoungDreamer]

That makes stuff tough, now doesnt it. I will have to talk to my truck buddies, they said my idea was stupid but it sounds like everything i want can be done i just have to convince them!

[argonaut]

Yeah, unfortunately our early 4x4 trucks are really not well supported by the aftermarket. So its all doable but just requires more fabrication or custom use of later model parts that are easier to come by.

[YoungDreamer]

C10's are two wheel drive correct? the K10 is the 4x4?

There are alot of lowering kits, i personally feel like thats a waste of a truck, atleast i cant use a truck if its lower to the ground than a Prius. If you're gonna ruin a truck like that. Im a 16 year old in a poor family that would like an older truck to get him to work this summer so he can buy stuff he wants and let his parents pay for rent in the house they were just forced into by the bank hahahaha. But seriously dont ruin the truck, give it to a kid

[argonaut]

Oh woops! you're talking 2wd, not 4wd! My bad, Ignore me!

[YoungDreamer]

You're fine, its whatever i can get my hands on. If i can get a 4x4 i will take it, they are more fun, but idk if they are the best for a slim wallet

[argonaut]

Two drive axles is always more expensive than one!

I feel the same way you do about the function of a truck. Lowered trucks just aren't as capable at doing truck duties. On my 64 c-10 I installed 3/4 ton rear springs and 3/4 ton HD front springs, then added a modest 1" body lift. I was able to comfortably fit 31x10.5" tires and still haul loads of sand and gravel. Not really a "lift kit" per se but its probably one of the taller old 2wd trucks that is driving around.
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