crank case pressure HIGH!!!

[cowboyup1086]

what would cause this my friends havin a problem with it... and its causing problems

[67shortie]

Blowby, meaning cyl pressures escaping past the rings.

How does he know this? Is the dipstick blowing out of the tube? Or is he throwing oil out of the breathers/pcv?

Let us know.

[Longhorn Man]

yeah, rings is abpout the only thing.
He does have a PCV valve on there, right?

[truckdude239]

on the rings and the pvc if he has one is the pvc valve stoped up?

[Huck]

Every engine good or bad will build internal pressure if not vented. Old blcoks had a breather tube that allowed oil vapors to vent. Then Positive Crankcase Ventalation (PCV) valves were used powered by intake manifold vacuum to suck out and cycle the oil fumes through the combustion prosess. If you have either a good vent tube or a good PCV connected to manifold vacuum, there should be no internal pressure. Huck

[jay6891]

Went to help a buddy the other day start up his brand new engine. He was waiting for me when I got there sitting in the drivers seat with a big grin on his face. Before I really got a good look at what he had, he started it. I was busy looking for leaks and setting the timing and bam. In his rush he forgot or didn't know that the engine needed to be vented. No provisions for valve cover breather or PVC valve. Blew is brand new Holley valve covers off of it. They were cast aluminum and broke around the bolt holes. Just a hundred dollar mistake.

[cowboyup1086]

its a new engine so the rings should be good.... be has the holes for the pcv but has vents instead of a vacume hooked to it.. yes it leaks by the dipstick, and blows out the vents... as well as makes the pan leak

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by cowboyup1086

its a new engine so the rings should be good.... be has the holes for the pcv but has vents instead of a vacume hooked to it.. yes it leaks by the dipstick, and blows out the vents... as well as makes the pan leak

Could still be blow by... Has the engine been driven enough to set/seal the rings? Most engines will have some internal pressure build up but not to the point of blowing gaskets and spewing oil out the oil cap, etc. unless the vent is plugged up or too much blow by.

I would do a compression check to see where the pressure buildup is coming from.

[QKENUF4U]

JAY- thats NUTS !!!

COWBOY- sounds like rings are not seated yet.

ive been here done this myself on my old blazer with vette covers. i kept blowing the rear main seal out. had the dealer fix it like 3x before he figured out my mistake/problem. had a hole cut in the covers and no more leaks.

[joedoozer]

Yeah if it is a new motor you probably just need to seat the rings. For laughs throw a compression gauge on it like 68 said, that will let you know if its rings. I always ran my new engines at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and then changed the oil. Ran it 200 miles in city only, never going over 40. Then changed oil. Then drove 1000 miles, normal city and highway driving. Changed oil again. Then I was all set. I would stick a PCV valve in it, so you can rule that out, leave the breather on the other side. All good advice here, this should help.

[BurnoutNova]

those aftermarket chrom breathers suck... i mean they dont suck, thats the probleom.

like said above get a pcv valve, and make sure the rings are seated.

to seat the rings in a new motor i like to put it in 1st gear, weather automatic or manual and put around the neighborhood slowly, getting up to maybe 3-3500 rpm, and let the engine braking slow you down, if this makes scence. do it for maybe 15-20 min.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by joedoozer

Yeah if it is a new motor you probably just need to seat the rings. For laughs throw a compression gauge on it like 68 said, that will let you know if its rings. I always ran my new engines at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and then changed the oil. Ran it 200 miles in city only, never going over 40. Then changed oil. Then drove 1000 miles, normal city and highway driving. Changed oil again. Then I was all set. I would stick a PCV valve in it, so you can rule that out, leave the breather on the other side. All good advice here, this should help.

Originally Posted by BurnoutNova

those aftermarket chrom breathers suck... i mean they dont suck, thats the probleom.

like said above get a pcv valve, and make sure the rings are seated.

to seat the rings in a new motor i like to put it in 1st gear, weather automatic or manual and put around the neighborhood slowly, getting up to maybe 3-3500 rpm, and let the engine braking slow you down, if this makes scence. do it for maybe 15-20 min.

Then you won’t agree with this…….. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
s/t

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

Then you won’t agree with this…….. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
s/t

Interesting read.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

Then you won’t agree with this…….. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
s/t

Hmmm: "Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines"...

Otherwise, it's just a big collection of crap IMHO - I don't see any "secrets". This guys credentials are...what? Some of the comments are OK - but they're well-known and nothing magical.

The best break-in for a GEN I, after cam break in is complete if required is to follow the guidance in the shop manual - cycles of acceleration at about 60% throttle and then letting off to "compression brake" the engine. With current ring technology and a machine shop that knows how to make the right surface for them the engine can be considered fully broken in after about 300 miles. I've pulled enough broken rings out of engines that were beat on in the first 20 miles to disagree with the "just do it" approach.

Note that racing engines are different; they're typically running forged pistons with relatively loose clearances - maybe even .005+ - vs. the hypereutectics with .001.

This is a little rambling, but the bottom line is that street engines aren't race engines and require a different technique.

[BurnoutNova]

it does make some scence, but i somewhat disagree that once the wear pattern begins and the peaks of the hone job wear the rings will never seats properly, they will always wear and so will the cylinder walls.

[BurnoutNova]

and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by BurnoutNova

and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.

I haven't heard of such a chip, can you list a single car that has this? Every new rental car I've driven went straight to redline w/ the rev-limiter pegged...no problem! (worked at a car rental as a driver.)
s/t

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by BurnoutNova

and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I haven't heard of such a chip, can you list a single car that has this? Every new rental car I've driven went straight to redline w/ the rev-limiter pegged...no problem! (worked at a car rental as a driver.)
s/t

I think BurnoutNova is referring to the computer programming.

This is what I've read: New cars are programmed against over-reving to prevent damage to engine/transmission. I have also read that some rental car comapnies have a way to monitor your speed so that if you abuse the vehicle (speeding, racing) they will charge you extra...

Back to ring setting...

The way I've "broken" in my engine the last few times I've overhauled them is somewhat similar to the example by Motoman. For the first couple hundred miles I fluctuate my speed from slow to fast varying the rpm's so that at no time will the engine be at the same rpm for longer than, say, 5 minutes. Even to the point of putting it in neutral and reving it fast several times while driving... It's worked for me.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

I think BurnoutNova is referring to the computer programming.

This is what I've read: New cars are programmed against over-reving to prevent damage to engine/transmission. I have also read that some rental car comapnies have a way to monitor your speed so that if you abuse the vehicle (speeding, racing) they will charge you extra...

Back to ring setting...

The way I've "broken" in my engine the last few times I've overhauled them is somewhat similar to the example by Motoman. For the first couple hundred miles I fluctuate my speed from slow to fast varying the rpm's so that at no time will the engine be at the same rpm for longer than, say, 5 minutes. Even to the point of putting it in neutral and reving it fast several times while driving... It's worked for me.

The rev-limiter is to protect from over-reving past redline. You can still burn out.

They can track your speed by using On-star. Another debatable subject!

Is there a way not to brake in a new engine? There are so many ideas out there it's going to be hard to prove. I don't think I'll baby mine, but not beat it either...Somewhere in between the two methods I guess.
s/t

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

The rev-limiter is to protect from over-reving past redline. You can still burn out.

they call it a burn out chip because after 1500 miles or so the computer deletes the program and everything goes to normal. i think it mostly affects shift points and fuel trim, and maybe even the spark advance which dramaticly reduces stress on the engine

none of the auto manufacturers admit to doing it but i work at a ford dealership, and do PDI's all the time, and you can definately tell the brand new cars dont have the nuts the used cars do with 5000 or so miles on 'em

[RustyParts]

I hope whoever rebuilt the engine checked the ring end gap and staggered them on the pistons.

[cowboyup1086]

yes there are a few cars that have the traction control/ anti burnout, pt cruiser, even the mustang has it.... to name 2 of them

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by cowboyup1086

yes there are a few cars that have the traction control/ anti burnout, pt cruiser, even the mustang has it.... to name 2 of them

Yes, actually most new cars have that, but its a safety thing. It's not to protect the engine.
s/t

[69halfton]

i know that some cars have rev limiters in park, not allowing the car to rev more then say 4000 rpm in park, but when you floor it driving it revs up right up to redline

the break in: when it came time to break in my 383, an engine builder in town said alot of the things mentioned in the article. and since i have a hyd. cam. there was no cam break in. he said 8-10 runs of hard accelerate to 5000 rpm or so, then engine braking back down. once complete, take it easy (but dont be afraid to step on it a bit) and the motor should be broken in.

not to drag this on, but my dad knew a guy who had a little vega with a 426 hemi in it. he used to build the motor him self, put it in the car, fire it up, rev it up twice, but it on the trailer, and race it like theres no tomorow.

[QKENUF4U]

Originally Posted by 69halfton

and since i have a hyd. cam. there was no cam break in.

he used to build the motor him self, put it in the car, fire it up, rev it up twice, but it on the trailer, and race it like theres no tomorow.

1. you most certainly do have a break in period (2000rpm for 20mins when you fire the new engine) roller cams are the only non-break in cams

2. thats a drag car, they like them loose so they rev and they get rebuilt at the end of the season usually