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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,721
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My budget Hi-Lift jack mount pics
Here are some pics of my budget Hi-Lift jack mount. First, the whole thing:
![]() Here's a closeup of the front and back with jack attached: ![]() ![]() And without the jack... ![]() ![]() The "pins" are grade 8 bolts with the head chopped off. On the front I just drilled a hole in the stake pocket and put one nut as far down on the threads as possible, inserted the "stud" into the stake pocket and put another nut with a lockwasher on the back. In the rear, I drilled a 3 holes and put a corresponding "doubler" plate made from 1/8" strap. Nuts and lockwashers are used inside the stake pocket like the front. Base of the jack hangs on this stud and front part of the jack has a piece of mudflap that goes around the nut to keep the jack from banging into the stake pocket. You can see the little piece of rubber in the pic, it is sitting on the wheelwell in the closeup without the jack. An old drum brake retaining spring (not the tapered one), a washer and hair pin make up the rest of the mount. Total cash outlay, $3. Addin a little lock to the pin makes it theft proof as well.
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44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 147
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Very nice low-buck, high enginuity tip. I think that will hold as well as if not better than the mounting kits that high-lift sells.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Carver County, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 626
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That is darn near identical to what I have set up. Though I like how you mounted the base of the jack to the rear better.
In my setup I have a bolt mounted like you have on the center stake pocket and the rear. But I have to remove the base plate of the jack each time to mount mine up and attach the base everytime I want to use it. I used a big wing nut and a threaded handle (you know, you find this stuff in the pail of nuts and bolts you always have!) on the bolts instead of the cotter pin. I have a bungee cord from the top of the handle down to the jack part to keep the handle from falling out. Me thinks I will tweak my setup to match yours this spring. Thanks for the scoop! -Roger
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72 Chev C-10 90% restored (former AZ truck) ... 71 Chev K-20 Cheyenne my vacation crusier... 72 Chev C-10 Now retired and striped after many faithful miles... 72 GMC 1500 Retired to the junk yard after bought new in '71... |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Edgerton OH USA
Posts: 631
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Very slick. Sure looks like it will get the job done.
Tom
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'69 swb stepside in progress. '59 Corvette lifetime project |
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#5 |
English Chevy Owner
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
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Thats a very neat and ingenious mounting set-up. My only comment on is that I would have mounted it on the passenger side to balance out the weight of the driver a bit!
I'm curious as I have a 5 foot high lift jack and locking mounting kit in the garage from my old LandRover. I can jack the back of my truck up by the rear step bumper (very solid). Where (and I pick my words carefully!) do you place the jack at the front of the vehicle?. I have a 67 2wd and just wonder if I could use the high lift rather than the little bottle jack I carry at the moment.
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,721
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Good question. I use my stock jack when changing a flat. I keep the high lift as a utility for lifting, winching, and stretching. The only way I'd use it on the front bumper was in an emergency unless I could help it. I mounted it on the drivers side because of the up/down lever would be more out of the way turned to the inside. I have the Hi-Lift spring clamp on the handle as well as an old heavy duty inner tube from my mountain bike. That way the handle doesn't rattle. The hair pin serves the dual purpose of clamping the jack body and it also keeps the handle in line with the jack. I was originally going to go with the wing nut, but it might loosen from vibration while the pin/spring setup will not. I also would have had to add another component to keep the handle in line as well. Thanks for the compliments.
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__________________
44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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#7 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,684
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Looks great. I need to get a high lift and then decide if I want to mount it on the flatbed or the new front bumper that I'm gonna get at some point.
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
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#8 |
Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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Hey, thanks Mike C. That's where my jack is going. Great idea!
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
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#9 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Now y'all made that danged jack hard to use. any good ol boy knows you jest throw the jack in the back uf that truck!
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. ![]() |
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