Spring Swap Thread - 1963 K15

['63GENIII]

I've been wanting to do a 52" / 63" spring swap on the '63 for some time now. I have never really liked the way it rides and I constantly worry about the 5-1/2" blocks in the rear. To that end, I have spent ALOT of time on the internet reading, searching for information and trying to prebuild this swap in my head for years now. I have been able to come up with swap info for 1967 to present but very little on the '60 to '66 rigs.
I've been collecting parts for about 3 years now and recently have accelerated my parts gathering. My end goal is to have a suspension that can remain comfortable whether loaded or unloaded, towing or not. I'm not after huge articulation or crawling ability, just a newer vehicle type of ride.
Hopefully this thread can help someone else who has been a little obsessed with this swap but hasn't wanted to be the guinea pig. It may keep me motivated to finish as well (as if having the truck in pieces all over the garage isn't enough)
I will try to get as many pics as I can and I may need some help. If there's anything that you guys that are reading this want me to get pics of or information on, just ask. I'd like to make this a useful thread for the '60 - '66 crowd even though there may be some frame differences between the years. With that said, let's get cracking'.
Had to air the tires down to get it in the garage. Ended up popping a bead on the drivers rear tire. Gotta love the 16.5 wheels! Sure do hope that I don't end up with more lift than I already have!

['63GENIII]

Started off with getting the bed off for better access to the rear spring hangers. I ended up taking it down to the coin op wash to get the frame cleaner before I start. Might even paint the back half while I'm there.
You can kind of get a feel for how much longer the '63 are compared to the original springs which are closer to 50 - 1/2".
The old springs were pretty tired as can be seen.
Lately I have been trying to chase the source of a pretty bad driveline vibration that occurs whenever I take off from a stop, go up a hill or just simply putting some power to the rear. When I drove to the car wash, I looked through the back window at the rear axle several times as I accelerated (sounds real safe huh?) only to see that the axle wrap that occurred would allow not only rotation of the axle but also a 1-1/2" to 2" forward movement of the pinion / axle. I'm hoping this is minimized when I'm done.
I'm also aiming to move the axle rearward 1" to center it better within the wheel well.

['63GENIII]

Initially, I was going to find OEM spring hangers, shackles and modify them to fit the '63 frame. The more I thought about it, the more realistic I became about the amount of time that I have available and my welding skills.
The option that I ended up going with DIY 4x4 B52 hanger set for the front and the DIY 4x4 Flip and Switch for the rear / rear spring hanger and the ORU shackle flip for the front / rear. Pics of both setups coming soon.
I have one of the front springs out right now which will give better access to the front hanger for removal.
The difference in length of the front springs can be seen here.

[swamp rat]

Nice progress so far, watching.

[argonaut]

Awesome! I can't wait for your feedback on the 52" springs up front. I suspect since the main leaf is relatively long and thin that you will need a front sway bar to prevent excessive of body roll. but maybe not. I'm glad you are taking the plunge!

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Awesome! I can't wait for your feedback on the 52" springs up front. I suspect since the main leaf is relatively long and thin that you will need a front sway bar to prevent excessive of body roll. but maybe not. I'm glad you are taking the plunge!

Yeah Im pretty stoked Jason. I think you may be right about the sway bar. I just got the front passenger side done (still loosely fitted but resting on the axle). I tried pushing down on the bumper on both sides just to compare. I can push the passenger side down easily nearly 1-1/2". I can't move the driver's side at all. One thing I was really concerned about was the cab mounts. I've heard that on the '67 - '72s that the front cab mount needed to be cut with this kit. Im not sure what the shackle angle is supposed to be but it looks good to my expert trained eye. LOL! Ill try to get some pics on her tonight to prove it happened!

['63GENIII]

Ok. Got some parts porn here. The First Gen 52 kit from DIY4x4 is a pretty stout piece. It is a very complete kit and the quality is by far the best I've seen yet. Im sure it will take way more abuse than I would ever dare dish out on this truck. Here goes

['63GENIII]

So back to the dirt... I became reaquainted with my trusty 4" grinder, air chisel and cordless drill and got to work. I started by grinding slots into the rivets that held the front spring hanger and core support. At some time in the past, the core support was treated to the stick welder treatment. Needles to say, this was the hardest part to get off. The last pick was what was left of the support when I was done. Getting the core support was like the death of a thousand cuts. Not fun.

The sharpie line on the bumper bracket is where I had to cut to make room for a gusset on the front hanger.

['63GENIII]

Finally a little confidence boost! 1 bolt holding the front bracket in. I was pretty excited at this point. Almost made the kids walk home from school so I could keep going. I needed a break at this point anyway. I was out of grinder discs, needed paint and a couple drill bits. Oh yeah and I had to get the kids from school too!

I also picked up some core support mounts for a '67 c series truck. Wasn't sure if they would fit at this point.

[dieseldude4bt]

I'm watching this.

[argonaut]

Aww man! It looks great! Now I want to do it too!

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Aww man! It looks great! Now I want to do it too!

It was actually a little easier than I expected Jason. The only exception being that the P.O. used a stick welder to reinforce the front core support frame mounts. Each of those took the better part of 4 hours to grind / chip down. I really like the later style core support bushing (just think it looks a little less hokey than the original) and I was really relieved to not have had to cut the front cab mounts!
Quite honestly, the mounts could probably be scavenged off of a '67 - '72 and be made to work for our trucks. It seems that there wasn't much change in the frames until after '72.

[swamp rat]

What hole is the spring in in the front mount? leaves me wondering why they give the 4 hole option... I cant tell you if it really matters if the shackle is leaning more forward or rearward. Like your stock shackle in a prior pic my aftermarket shackles lean forward a little. I think I'd install the tire and see how well centered it is.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

What hole is the spring in in the front mount? leaves me wondering why they give the 4 hole option... I cant tell you if it really matters if the shackle is leaning more forward or rearward. Like your stock shackle in a prior pic my aftermarket shackles lean forward a little. I think I'd install the tire and see how well centered it is.

I used the second hole from the rear. My goal was to keep the axle in the existing location or move it forward a little. I didn't want it moving backwards and giving me driveshaft issues. (I just had a new shaft built and didn't want to buy or shorten another one). The rear hole would have moved the axle back farther than I wanted forcing me to shorten the DS and I was ok with the 3/4" that the axle moved forward with the second hole.

[b454rat]

With no weight on the axle, I like the shackle kicking back a little bit. Gives it room to move like it should. The reason for the holes in the front is adjustability, whole reason for the kit. I like your truck, makes me want to get one.....

[argonaut]

What is the measurement between the front eye bolt and the shackle hanger bolt?

['63GENIII]

Got the other side done last night, everything tightened up. Gonna air down the tires here in an hour or so to get it out of the garage. Air it back up and take her for a spin. Im thinking that the first trip will be to the wrecking yard for a sway bar and mounts. Thanks Jason, Im kinda stressing over that now! LOL.
This brings me to a question that I have; I've searched around trying to find pics of the factory front sway bar for a '73 up front axle. Im just looking for a reference for mounting points and how the bar lays out under the truck. I also want to make sure that the spring clamp plates that the bar attaches to are on correctly.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

This brings me to a question that I have; I've searched around trying to find pics of the factory front sway bar for a '73 up front axle. Im just looking for a reference for mounting points and how the bar lays out under the truck. I also want to make sure that the spring clamp plates that the bar attaches to are on correctly.

Here's another build with a 2.5" lift spring lift and sway bar from a 73-78 truck, might help you determine how to set yours up. he starts on the second post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...259859&page=12

I haven't been able to find it but somebody sells brackets for the axle end of the sway bar that allow for a lift and keep the sway bar in the same position, the brackets have pins in them so off roaders can disconnect them for more articulation.. somebody here posted pictures in their thread..

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Here's another build with a 2.5" lift spring lift and sway bar from a 73-78 truck, might help you determine how to set yours up. he starts on the second post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...259859&page=12

I haven't been able to find it but somebody sells brackets for the axle end of the sway bar that allow for a lift and keep the sway bar in the same position, the brackets have pins in them so off roaders can disconnect them for more articulation.. somebody here posted pictures in their thread..

Thanks for the link Swamp! That is exactly what I'm looking for. Although there isn't a lot of body roll right now, I suspect that when I get the 63's in the back, the bed on it and am carrying firewood, it may get uncomfortably loose. Im working on finding someone on CL that's parting a 73 up K series truck as I write this. I really like how that sway bar looks like it came with the truck!

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by argonaut

What is the measurement between the front eye bolt and the shackle hanger bolt?

Sorry, didn't see this one. It's 50-1/2" center to center.

[argonaut]

That sounds about right. From my measurements it seems most of these trucks had a bolt spacing similar to the spring length or maybe an inch shorter. Seems 1-2 iches shorter is what most people end up with when doing shackle flips and such.

[argonaut]

ORD sells the sway bar links with quick release pins.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by argonaut

ORD sells the sway bar links with quick release pins.

Thanks!

['63GENIII]

Just drove it around. All I can say is that I have to hurry up and do the rears now. It is like night and day. Not a lot of body roll either. Gonna go drive it some more!

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

Just drove it around. All I can say is that I have to hurry up and do the rears now. It is like night and day. Not a lot of body roll either. Gonna go drive it some more!

Awesome! That is good to hear that the body roll isn't terrible. You're making me wish I had gone with 52s up front when I built big ugly, but I wussed out.

Did you buy the 5 leaf 52" springs new? Did they come with the plastic sliders on the leaf tips like the factory springs? Did you remove the overload leaf or leave it on?