Speed warning cluster Qs

[davepl]

I bought a non-tach, gauge, speed-warning cluster from a local board member yesterday. My plan is to move the speed warning to my cluster. Looks like that will require the SW backplate.

So, if I manage to cut the hole in the backplate for the tach, use the correct insulated screws, and run the SW cable and ground tap, are there any other differences?

It looks like the PCB is the same part number as my old (non-tach) original.

I'm also wondering about transferring my odometer over. That might be illegal, even though I'd argue it's more ethical than putting in a lower reading one. But does anyone know if they interchange (ie: can I put a non-SW odometer in an SW speedo). Mine's also a lot brighter white.

[FirstOwner69]

I can't answer that question, but, rather than try to cut the tach hole yourself, I suggest you send the tin to 70shortfleet (Les) and have him punch the hole.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=497031

You can have him punch holes in the front and rear tins so you can add the clock too.

Also suggest you use your odometer since I assume it is the one showing the actual truck miles.

Edit: Oops, I was thinking front tin not rear. He can possibly help there, too.

[leddzepp]

It is a lot easier to drill two holes in the backing plate of your existing tach cluster, and transfer the speedwarning head and cable over.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

It is a lot easier to drill two holes in the backing plate of your existing tach cluster, and transfer the speedwarning head and cable over.

It looks that easy, but I thought it wasn't for some reason. So just the hole for the cable to exit the back plate and the little stud that gets grounded when the SW triggers?

And one for the knob itself in the front.

Anyone know if the knobs are available? The look a lot like a valve stem cap, so I could fake it, but I'd always know it was a tire valve stem cap on my dash...

It was a bear getting the speedo needle off without destroying it. I wasn't able to simply mask it like I did with my non-SW needle because there's a little black backing plate behind the needle. Couldn't get tape or paper between them, and you don't want that flange orange. Got to play with my airbrush for the second time in 15 years though. I used a brush last time but the airbrush did flow out more nicely.

[leddzepp]

There is a very very fine wire attached to the needle. Make sure you do not damage or bend it. That is what actually makes contact with the white needle on the speedwarning, grounding it, and making it buzz. The brass lug on the back is nothing more than a "bridge" between the speedo head and the wire harness, connecting them together.