Solenoid ignition wire from ign sw to fuse block

[ktztrk]

New at this. Have a continuity reading of 15 ohms purple wire from ignition switch to fuse block. I need to determine the length and routing of the wire. I will not be able to perform the job myself, due to having an operation tomorrow, but would like to provide the best guidance possible to whoeveer I hire to perform the job.
I followed the wiring from the switch over to the steering column,then it appears to go behind some cardboard type of panel.
Can anyone help in this area?
I will be able to hobble to the computer in a day or two.
Thanks.
1970 C-10 longbed
350/350 trubo
Formerly South Dakota truck
now located in North Texas

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The purple ignition wire for the solenoid is part of the main underdash wiring harness from the switch to the fuse panel. In the fuse panel it is terminated onto the bulkhead connector. If it is an automatic harness the wire is interrupted by the pigtail that is connected to the neutral safety switch at the fuse panel.

If your truck does not have an automatic, I would plan on 50" of wire. If it has an automatic with the neutral safety switch, I would plan on another 22" of wire. It is a little bit of a job to remove the old wire and route the new one in the harness. My guess is that you may be better off getting a good used harness.

I am curious as to why you want to replace the wire. If it is an automatic, the neutral safety switch could give you the ohm reading that you are seeing. I have never had any problems with the purple wire in the harness.

Jim

[ktztrk]

The light bulb flickers! I really do not want to change the wire. The positive battery cable shorted against the exhaust bolt and caused some problems.
I had the started tested and it seems to be ok as well as the solenoid. The ignition switch had some slight meltdown damage at the solenoid and accessory points. I replaced the ignition switch but when I turn the key to start, I hear one click and then nothing. So, I started testing the path.
My tranny is automatic so there is a neutral safety switch. Can you give me some direction and what to test next? Should I just try to use a remote starter setup and see what happens?
Definitely not an electrical guru at this end.
Thanks

[nathank]

This might sound retarded, but does the battery have a good charge?

[Longhorn Man]

My first thought too.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

I would make sure of the battery as has been suggested. I am not sure how the purple wire could have been damaged by the positive cable shorting out against the exhaust bolt. If the battery is good than the solenoid or starter can still cause the problem that you are describing.

After you make sure the a battery is good my next thought would be to check the amp draw of the starter with the ignition switch in the start position. The problem is you will need help and a clamp on amp meter that is good for 3-400 amps. Jumpering the starter might give you some information also, but it will not prove that the wire is bad.


Good luck, let us know your progress.

JIm

[ktztrk]

Sorry for lack of info. Checked battrey w/ meter @ 12.43 volts, (But NOT under load).
I will do that today. When I started, 12.5 volts to distributor, 12.36 volts to purple wire on starter when key in start position.
Main reason looking at purple wire was distortion of plastic connector at the sol and acc male connector wires hold the purple(sol) and the brown and brown w/white stripe (acc) wires. Plus the purple wire has a "rubbed" exposed insulation near the connector. Will check later today and post new info. Thanks.

[blackandblue]

So what ever happened? i know this is an older thread, but i have the same wires shorted out in my connector. no click on my starter at all. seaching for the break under the dash, probably in for some replacement too. Arrrgh!