Problem with quick restarts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

RicksTrucks · 03-09-2005, 10:06 PM

I have had a problem with my 69 SWB Fleetside. If I turn it off and then try to start it right back (like if I stop for gas and finish too fast) it won't start. But if I sit for a couple more minutes it starts right up. My mechanic changed out the positive battery cable thinking it was too small and heating up. But that didn't help. I don't have any problems as long as I remember not to try and start it right away. So for quick stops, I have to leave it running. Any ideas?

Dean23 · 03-09-2005, 10:12 PM

sounds like the heat is killin the starter. try a heat shield or heat wrap on the starter or mount a remote starter solenoid on your fender

Longhorn Man · 03-09-2005, 10:18 PM

Quote:

it won't start...

What's it doin?
Crank w/no fire?
No crank?
Crank slow
farts through the carb?
shoots fire out the carb...or the tail pipes...or BOTH

Need more details.
Also, your engine combo will help too.

RicksTrucks · 03-09-2005, 10:19 PM

No crank, like dead battery. But wait a couple minutes and fires right up.

stllookn · 03-09-2005, 10:42 PM

Any click from the starter solenoid when you try? I know you said "like a dead battery" but we still need more. Mine would do this after I cranked on it a bit. Let sit and it would start. Crank too long...nothing...no click or anything. I replaced all the grounds and it got better but never healed completely. Some connection was heating up and going dead. I finally ran an additional hot lead from the starter solenoid to the battery. When it happenened again I would put the lead on the battery and it would start right up. I know it is not the starter or solenoid...it is wiring somewhere. Try this bypass to make sure it is not the dreaded heat soak problem.

rusted75 half ton · 03-09-2005, 10:42 PM

can you turn your lights,ect. on when it won't crank?if you can sounds like bad starter.

*screamin_c102* · 03-09-2005, 10:43 PM

Heat soaked solenoid...get a heat shield.

tom hand · 03-10-2005, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by screamin_c10

Heat soaked solenoid...get a heat shield.

I second that

RicksTrucks · 03-09-2005, 10:45 PM

I am currently in Santa Barbara, but will try those things this weekend. Thanks.

jhwkns · 03-09-2005, 11:18 PM

Check the powerblock on the passenger side inner fender. Make sure everything is clean and tight. New connectors, and a bright shiny powerblock can do wonders for these trucks.

LT4XTREME · 03-10-2005, 03:02 PM

I had a 350 in a 70 that would not start hot. The solenoid would click but no crank let it sit a few minutes and it would start fine. The bushing in the starter was bad and the heat would cause it to lock up. When it cooled off it would spin free. I installed a new bushing (cheap if you can find them) and it worked great.

Gene · 03-10-2005, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhwkns

Check the powerblock on the passenger side inner fender. Make sure everything is clean and tight. New connectors, and a bright shiny powerblock can do wonders for these trucks.

Mine acted exactly likke yours, it turned out to be as jhwkns said. The block on the fender had 2 bad connections. I replaced all the wire and ends and havent had that problem since.

jhow66 · 03-10-2005, 11:53 PM

This will take care of it:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

RicksTrucks · 03-10-2005, 11:34 PM

Are those standard equipment, something I can find at the yard, or do I need to make one?

**VetteVet** · 03-11-2005, 12:13 AM

I have oftened wondered with this remote solenoid how the starter bendix gets engaged to the flywheel. Anybody know?
VetteVet

jhow66 · 03-11-2005, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteVet

I have oftened wondered with this remote solenoid how the starter bendix gets engaged to the flywheel. Anybody know?
VetteVet

There is a jumper wire from Bat. post on solenoid to "S" post on it. This way when remote is engaged current flows thru bat. cable to starter and "S" post at same time.

**VetteVet** · 03-11-2005, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhow66

There is a jumper wire from Bat. post on solenoid to "S" post on it. This way when remote is engaged current flows thru bat. cable to starter and "S" post at same time.

thanks Jhow. I couldn't figure out how the bendix was pulled to the flywheel except by the starter solenoid. So instead of the "S" wire feeding voltage to the solenoid from the key switch, it is fed directly from the pos battery cable on the starter as in jumping with a screwdriver for full battery voltage. It must be just enough of a voltage boost to overcome heat soak or will it?Seems like a heat shield is still a good idea especially with headers.

VetteVet

widow_maker · 03-11-2005, 08:51 PM

My 69 was leaving me stranded at times as well. I to added the heat shield between my headers and the starter and protected the connections at the solenoid but continued to have the same problems. I finally drove the truck till it was good and warm then stopped at the parts store for a run on the diagnostics unit. The system said my battery was dead. Once the truck cooled slightly, we started it and did the test again. It said the system wasn't charging at that point and to test the regulator. It failed! My problem wasn't at the starter but rather the regulator under the battery tray. Ultimately, my alternator gave up the fight a short time later as it was being overworked by the faulty regulator. Just another idea.

jhow66 · 03-11-2005, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteVet

thanks Jhow. I couldn't figure out how the bendix was pulled to the flywheel except by the starter solenoid. So instead of the "S" wire feeding voltage to the solenoid from the key switch, it is fed directly from the pos battery cable on the starter as in jumping with a screwdriver for full battery voltage. It must be just enough of a voltage boost to overcome heat soak or will it?Seems like a heat shield is still a good idea especially with headers.

VetteVet

Here is the problem--When the solenoid on a GM setup gets hot it takes as much as 40 amps to pull the plunger in solenoid. The current flows from battery in to ign. switch then to netural safety switch then to solenoid--hence not enough amps to pull it. With the MAD setup (F**D solenoid) it only takes 4 AMPS to pull it's plunger which then sends full battery voltage to starter & solenoid-problem solved. All the F**D guys in our circle of car nuts kid us about buying up all of their parts to make our CHEVYS run.

You are right about sheild as it will help also.

**raggedjim** · 03-11-2005, 11:53 AM

I had the same problem as LT4EXTREME, if the bushing is worn and the starter heats up the armature will hit the outer housing and lockup. I found this out after I had put in a heat shield, remote solenoid, and everything else I could think of...

Sometimes the simplest things kick your butt...

Rg

03-09-2005, 10:06 PM	#1
RicksTrucks Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Claremore, OK 74017 Posts: 2,640	Problem with quick restarts I have had a problem with my 69 SWB Fleetside. If I turn it off and then try to start it right back (like if I stop for gas and finish too fast) it won't start. But if I sit for a couple more minutes it starts right up. My mechanic changed out the positive battery cable thinking it was too small and heating up. But that didn't help. I don't have any problems as long as I remember not to try and start it right away. So for quick stops, I have to leave it running. Any ideas? __________________ 68 Short Stepside C-10 69 SWB C-10 70 Flatbed C-20 70 LWB C-20 BB402 70 LWB C-10 CST 70 LWB C-10 CST 71 Short Stepside Cheyenne C-10 72 LWB C-10 72 Blazer 4x4 4spd 95 Jeep Cherokee 4x4

03-09-2005, 10:12 PM	#2
Dean23 68cst_ss490 Join Date: May 2001 Location: edmonton,canada Posts: 1,363	sounds like the heat is killin the starter. try a heat shield or heat wrap on the starter or mount a remote starter solenoid on your fender __________________ Dean edmonton,canada a winter wonderland 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche LT cold air intake, performance exhaust, Comp cams cam, jba shorty ceramic headers. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3090973

03-09-2005, 10:19 PM	#4
RicksTrucks Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Claremore, OK 74017 Posts: 2,640	No crank, like dead battery. But wait a couple minutes and fires right up. __________________ 68 Short Stepside C-10 69 SWB C-10 70 Flatbed C-20 70 LWB C-20 BB402 70 LWB C-10 CST 70 LWB C-10 CST 71 Short Stepside Cheyenne C-10 72 LWB C-10 72 Blazer 4x4 4spd 95 Jeep Cherokee 4x4

03-09-2005, 10:42 PM	#5
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Any click from the starter solenoid when you try? I know you said "like a dead battery" but we still need more. Mine would do this after I cranked on it a bit. Let sit and it would start. Crank too long...nothing...no click or anything. I replaced all the grounds and it got better but never healed completely. Some connection was heating up and going dead. I finally ran an additional hot lead from the starter solenoid to the battery. When it happenened again I would put the lead on the battery and it would start right up. I know it is not the starter or solenoid...it is wiring somewhere. Try this bypass to make sure it is not the dreaded heat soak problem. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

03-09-2005, 10:45 PM	#9
RicksTrucks Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Claremore, OK 74017 Posts: 2,640	I am currently in Santa Barbara, but will try those things this weekend. Thanks. __________________ 68 Short Stepside C-10 69 SWB C-10 70 Flatbed C-20 70 LWB C-20 BB402 70 LWB C-10 CST 70 LWB C-10 CST 71 Short Stepside Cheyenne C-10 72 LWB C-10 72 Blazer 4x4 4spd 95 Jeep Cherokee 4x4

03-09-2005, 10:42 PM	#6
rusted75 half ton More trusty Less rusty Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lakewood,Colorado Posts: 152	can you turn your lights,ect. on when it won't crank?if you can sounds like bad starter.

03-09-2005, 10:43 PM	#7
screamin_c102 Account Suspended Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Yoncalla Oregon Posts: 775	Heat soaked solenoid...get a heat shield.

03-09-2005, 11:18 PM	#10
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	Check the powerblock on the passenger side inner fender. Make sure everything is clean and tight. New connectors, and a bright shiny powerblock can do wonders for these trucks. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

03-10-2005, 03:02 PM	#11
LT4XTREME Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MINERAL WELLS WV Posts: 143	I had a 350 in a 70 that would not start hot. The solenoid would click but no crank let it sit a few minutes and it would start fine. The bushing in the starter was bad and the heat would cause it to lock up. When it cooled off it would spin free. I installed a new bushing (cheap if you can find them) and it worked great.

03-10-2005, 11:53 PM	#13
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	This will take care of it: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

03-10-2005, 11:34 PM	#14
RicksTrucks Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Claremore, OK 74017 Posts: 2,640	Are those standard equipment, something I can find at the yard, or do I need to make one? __________________ 68 Short Stepside C-10 69 SWB C-10 70 Flatbed C-20 70 LWB C-20 BB402 70 LWB C-10 CST 70 LWB C-10 CST 71 Short Stepside Cheyenne C-10 72 LWB C-10 72 Blazer 4x4 4spd 95 Jeep Cherokee 4x4

03-11-2005, 12:13 AM	#15
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,717	I have oftened wondered with this remote solenoid how the starter bendix gets engaged to the flywheel. Anybody know? VetteVet __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

03-11-2005, 08:51 PM	#18
widow_maker This space for lease Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Michigan Posts: 75	My 69 was leaving me stranded at times as well. I to added the heat shield between my headers and the starter and protected the connections at the solenoid but continued to have the same problems. I finally drove the truck till it was good and warm then stopped at the parts store for a run on the diagnostics unit. The system said my battery was dead. Once the truck cooled slightly, we started it and did the test again. It said the system wasn't charging at that point and to test the regulator. It failed! My problem wasn't at the starter but rather the regulator under the battery tray. Ultimately, my alternator gave up the fight a short time later as it was being overworked by the faulty regulator. Just another idea. __________________ If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something. 1972 K-20 l/f 383/350 a/c "custom camper" 1987 V-20 l/f Silverado - project

03-11-2005, 11:53 AM	#20
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,589	I had the same problem as LT4EXTREME, if the bushing is worn and the starter heats up the armature will hit the outer housing and lockup. I found this out after I had put in a heat shield, remote solenoid, and everything else I could think of... Sometimes the simplest things kick your butt... Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.