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02-01-2023, 12:17 PM | #1 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 412
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HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Good morning everyone!
I have spent quite a bit of time reading and re-reading several threads regarding wheel stud size and brakes for the HO52/72 rear axle. In this thread below, there is a lot of good information about swapping the brakes off of a Corporate 14 Bolt axle onto an HO52: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ht=HO52+9%2F16 According to the thread this is a fairly straightforward swap, and if you have 71/72 hubs, it is even easier to do. The more that I think about my own restoration, rather than swapping the HO52 out for a 14 bolt that I purchased, I am now thinking about keeping the HO52 and doing a brake swap. The axle was working, and the only reason that I was going to swap it was so that it would match up with the new dana 44 that has 4.10 gears in it (the HO52 that I have is geared with 4.57's). I am really thinking now, that I may just want to stay with the lower gears for now, keep the HO52 and just regear the front with 4.56's from Yukon Gear as they are fairly cheap. So, in following this information below: Quote:
Thanks, Clay
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Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
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02-02-2023, 12:24 AM | #2 |
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Location: Los Osos Ca
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Sorry can’t help with the brake question, but if you go that route I have a good 4:56 R&P out of a ‘66 Dana 44F I’d make you a good deal on. Not sure if you need to change the carrier also with that swap, but have that as well.
Tom
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65 short stepside K10 292-SM420-T221 8 lug closed D44 front NoSpin HO72 4.10 rear |
02-02-2023, 08:27 AM | #3 | |
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Quote:
Clay
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Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
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02-02-2023, 11:01 PM | #4 | |
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Location: Los Osos Ca
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Quote:
Sounds like you’re getting it figured out, should make things much simpler. No hurry on the R&P, it’s wrapped and stashed safely on a shelf and not going anywhere. When the dust settles and you’re ready, I may be interested in swapping for some of those unneeded drum brake parts, if the front or rear’s are 12” Good luck with the project Tom
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65 short stepside K10 292-SM420-T221 8 lug closed D44 front NoSpin HO72 4.10 rear |
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02-02-2023, 04:33 AM | #5 | |
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Location: Herculaneum MO (20 minutes south of St. Louis
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Quote:
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67 C10 283 T5 swapped longbed fleetside = wife's daily driver 67 C20 292 (originally a 250)4speed longbed fleetside w/original wooden bed=my project truck 67 C10 283+.060 (so a 292 as well)T5 swapped longbed fleetside=my DD 72 C1500 Sierra Grande 350 TH350 longbed fleetside=wife's fair weather truck Can you tell we are fans of longbed fleetsides & 67s Chris |
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02-02-2023, 08:25 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Well, I ended up finding a set of HO52 hubs off of a '71 pretty cheap, so I think that I will go that route rather than drilling mine. Am I correct in assuming that the studs that I would use would be for a 14 bolt axle? Does anyone know what that part number is?
Thanks, Clay
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Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
04-09-2024, 01:42 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX
Posts: 1,588
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Hey Clay,
I ordered this lug stud(Dorman 610-192): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1060301 Installed them and they are short, so I went looking for longer studs with the same diameter knurl and found this, which is .375 longer. depending on where I look it up(Dorman 610-073): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1060276 I didn't want to convert to the larger studs, so, It looks like these will work, assuming I can press .249" more knurl in the hub. Did you look at doing something like this? |
04-09-2024, 02:03 PM | #8 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
Quote:
Hi Jason, I actually ended up going back to the original closed knuckle dana 44 for the front and I stayed with the HO52 on the rear. After doing a bit of research, I found that the Dorman 610181 studs worked for the front, and the Dorman 610188 studs worked for the rear. The knurl for the original 1/2" studs on my truck were .625". The 610181 studs were .623" and the 610188 studs were .620", all of which allowed for me to upgrade my 1/2" studs to 9/16" studs without having to drill anything at all. I was able to simply press the new studs in. Clay
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Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
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04-09-2024, 03:38 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX
Posts: 1,588
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
That's nuts, your knurl is bigger than mine. Also 67 K20 closed knuckle Dana 44(but HD) in the front and HO52 in the rear.
The .56 knurl drove in fine for my rear, but they were too short. Seems like your 610188 are 2.75 long and what I'm getting are only 2.375 long. I think the 2.375 will at lease fill the threads in my lug nuts. |
04-10-2024, 08:07 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Calgary Alberta
Posts: 1,166
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
I have an early childhood memory of a driver's side rear wheel overtaking the 51 Chev one ton turnip truck and bouncing down into a ravine. It had recently had a flat and obviously the wheel nuts never got tightened enough. Good thing a car wasn't coming in the opposite direction.
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66 fleetside 350 4sp |
04-11-2024, 02:16 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX
Posts: 1,588
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Re: HO52 Wheel Stud Question
I'm just back to report the Dorman 610-073 work great with the .56 knurl and 2.375 length 1/2-20 threads....
Vince that reminds me of my uncle telling the story about the lock ring coming off the wheel on the beer truck he was driving and going so far down the road they were not able to recover it. |
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