drop spindles, cut springs, drum brakes ugggghhh

[CRGRS 66]

Well, I am having a hard time deciding which way to go. Would love to go with drop spindles, but they are all seem to take disc brakes, and I want to keep the drums. Cutting my 46 year old springs doesn't seem to be the most prudent idea, will work, but they are old to begin with. Would like to go with 3" lowering springs as they are relatively inexpensive, but I am unsure how this effects geometry. With 3" lowering springs, can I use stock springs. Are there drop spindles out there that take the original drum brakes?

I have searched a number of threads on cutting springs, and the experiences, and opinions out there are all over the place.

I think I want to lower my front end 3", and will then decide how low to go on the back end. I am still waiting for my new rear rubber, which will be 295/50R15's, tires now on the truck are 235/75R15's, so the rear end should come down about 1-1/4" with the new rubber, and also add the same in distance between the top of the rubber, and the bottom of the fender well.

If anyone would like o share their experiences, and or thoughts, I would love to hear from you.

Thanks for listening!

[chevy_mike]

If you want to keep drum brakes (and I don't know why... discs are way better) your best bet would be using dropped control arms. 3" dropped springs will leave you almost no travel and likely a crappy ride. I used drop arms years ago when dropped spindles really were not on the market. A company modified the stock arms by "raising" the ball joint in relation to the control arm.

Now there are pre-made control arms that I think give you a 3" drop. About the only major issue is the scrub line is likely an issue unless you are using large diameter wheels (meaning if you have a flat tire, the control arm will hit the ground first).

Good luck.

Here's a pic of my old truck

[CRGRS 66]

Thanks Mike, that is an option I had not considered. I guess my only hesitation with changing to disc brakes is the ballooning costs. Just bought this truck in March, and there endless areas that need attention, and ultimately dollars. I plan to update to power brakes, a dual MC, and split the lines, which will be a major improvement in braking for a very minimal cost (booster $140 MC $25, splitting the lines nickels and dimes). Just want to spend my dollars wisely I guess, but wisely may be spindles and disc brakes. Maybe I should go that route and skip on the booster. Get an MC and prop valve suitable for discs...

[badriand]

Find ya a donor and you can get everything fairly cheap (depending on where you get it). Pretty much up to 87 control arms bolt right up (did on mine anyways). I found a 87 suburban that was behind a building crashed and was told i could get what i wanted. Got upper/lower arms, booster, prop valve -wish i would had went ahead and got power steering also but wasn't heading down that path yet.

[N2TRUX]

No one makes spindles for drum brakes so exclude that option. I'm not sure how the 3" drop springs work on 60-66's but they suck on 73-87's. Anything over 2" spring rides like poo.

[CRGRS 66]

the drop spindle kits now fit the stock control arms and steering components, so making the switch to discs is actually looking pretty reasonable. I guess 2.5 spindles, and 1" lowering springs get it done, I already have monroe sensa trac shocks to go on, so that will be a pretty reasonable way to freshen up and drop the FE at the same time

[chevy_mike]

Yes, 2.5" dropped spindles and 1" drop springs work great. I have done that on my three trucks (okay, only one is on the road at the moment).

[neverwinter]

i just did this swap on my 63 and happened upon another 71 c10 chassis that i scooped up for its rear axle and the engine (for use in another proj). Anyway i saved the entire front clip including cross member with everything needed to convert to disks in front. if you were closer id mail you the bits but shipping would kill you. its an easy swap - unbolt your stuff and bolt the coss member in with everything attached. youll need new tie rods, ball joints etc but if i can do it anyone can - esp if not going to power steering. find a donor truck and go that route. kits are expensive. i paid under 500 for a complete chassis with a 250, 4 speed trans, good radiator, nice leather bench seat, brake lines and 4 good wheels (tires junk). a kit from CP will cost more than that just to get brakes. good luck. too bad you werent closer!