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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 39
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Late model TPI 4L60E in '72
Hello all,
Once again I am looking for help. I have recently received an offer to sell a '98 TPI 350 Vortec and 4L60E (with all electronics) for $2400. The combo has less than 35K on them and they are out of a 2wd Yukon. So, here are my questions: ~ Has anyone out there installed a late model, computerized setup in a 67-72? ~ How big and technical a job is it? ~ What do I have to be aware of? ~ I would like to have the gas mileage and comfort advantages of TPI and an electronically controlled tranny, but would I be better advised to go with a 383 / 700R4 combo? The goal is to build a NICE daily driver (15K mi/yr) capable of pulling a 5K lb. boat over the Sierras comfortably. I am aware of the electronic guage issues but am very interested to know if I am getting in way over my head. I am not an idiot...but I am not a mechanic either. Muchas gracias. gbkwork
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'72 Custom LWB 383 ci, Lunati 213 / 219 cam (60101L), 2.02/1.6 heads, Crane roller rockers, HPC coated ramhorns, FIRST TPI, '90 Corvette ECM, , Built 700R4, 3.73 Eaton Posi 12-bolt, Magnaflow dual exhaust, PW, Keyless DL, ECE Hidden Hitch, New chrome all around, 17" Torq Thrust II's, 255/50 & 275/50 Nittos, ART airbags, Rick's custom tank w/ custom in-bed filler, '02 Silverado seats, Rod Doors headliner / A-pillar covers and door panels. |
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#2 |
former desert rat
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: salt lake city, utah Home of the 3 M's Mormons, methlabs and minivans
Posts: 320
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To do a job like that will require a good amount of skill, a lot of patience and a pretty deep pocket. Just things to think about, fabricating mounts, changing fuel tanks, drive shaft. The list goes on and on. I have done this kind of swap a few times ( never in my own truck) but I have a full automotive shop at my disposal, and a fair amount of skill. So the job wasnt too difficult for me to accomplish. However, it is still quite an undertaking, but well worth it in the end. I hope I havent discouraged you, you just need to think about EVERYTHING involved in the swap. Good luck!
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94 Chevy Silverado Ext cab 4/6 drop w/ 18's and 2500watt system (work truck). 67 Chevy swb under const. frame off custom, 20's, bagged and a large rat under the hood,and a 1940 Chevy truck under const. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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Not quite the same setup, but you can use it for comparison. I put a 1996 LT1 in a '91 S10. Did it all, and I mean everything, myself. It took me 4 days to get the engine and tranny bolted in and all hooked up, (remember I had very little room, so I was modifying as I went along). It took me another week to get the wiring straight. I did not get a harness from Painless, just used the harness that came with the engine. In retrospect I would suggest spend the money on the painless wiring if this isn't straight low budget. I spent another 2 weeks fighting electrical gremlins. One problem that drove me crazy was the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System). I ended up getting a VATS delete box from someone, I don't remember who, but it was off a Camaro website. Also, uknown to me the donor car had been hit in the front, thus causing a broken wire in a harness in the front of the engine. I hunted that one for most of a week. I'm not trying to disuade you, but don't think this will be a quick job (like I did). I have a 383 with a 350 tranny in my '72 now and I love it! However, there are many days when I miss fuel injection and the better MPG associated with it. When this engine goes out I will probably do a 383 LT1 with Supercharger setup, but that's later.
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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Lucky for me my driveshaft fit, no mods. Cevy Wrench is right about thinking about everything though. I spent 2 months thinking about this swap day and night. It really paid off in the end because I ad an idea where dificulties would be. My overall costs including engine/tranny(45k miles), shipping, and misc things like electric fans, fuel pump etc. was roughly 4,000.00 give or take 100.00. This was 2.5 years ago, so it would probably cost less now for the engine/tranny.
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 39
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Additional questions
First, thanks for the quick replies.
I have some additional questions. Assuming I can take anything I want from the donor Yukon, where should I make the cuts? If I plan on adding A/C, should I take the compressor and condenser and just use the Vintage Air fan / defrost and ducting kit? The cruise control has been offered as well. I am planning on using the Painless wiring kit, so that is not so much a worry. I just need to know where to cut the wires and what electronics I should salvage from the donor. I expect to have tranny-mount problems, but what kind of problems will I have with motor mounts? Again...this site and its members are saviors. gbkwork
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'72 Custom LWB 383 ci, Lunati 213 / 219 cam (60101L), 2.02/1.6 heads, Crane roller rockers, HPC coated ramhorns, FIRST TPI, '90 Corvette ECM, , Built 700R4, 3.73 Eaton Posi 12-bolt, Magnaflow dual exhaust, PW, Keyless DL, ECE Hidden Hitch, New chrome all around, 17" Torq Thrust II's, 255/50 & 275/50 Nittos, ART airbags, Rick's custom tank w/ custom in-bed filler, '02 Silverado seats, Rod Doors headliner / A-pillar covers and door panels. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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I say try and get everything you can. I'm not sure where the engine harness connects to the in cab harness, but I would look at wiring diagrams and get any and all body control modules, security modules, and maybe even the fuse block (I beleive theres one inthe engine compartment) This fuse block usually as fuses for the engine sensors. I also don't know, but you might be able to get the computer reprogramed to get rid of things like VATS. I can't help with the mounts, I got mine from advanved adapters, they might make some for this conversion. Probably do since this could go in any 350 conversion. If you can get the a.c. ten get it, if you don't use it, sell it on ebay!!! Hope this helps
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Cedar Hill, MO
Posts: 426
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I have a 69 with a Vortec 383 and a 4L80E transmission in it. I used a Dakota Digital dash.
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1969 Chevy C10. Dakota Digital Gauges, 383 Votex Engine, MSD 8361 Distributor, MSD 6A Unit, Demon Carb, Phoenix Transmission 4L80E trans, 3:73 Posi Rear End Early Classics 6 Lug Disc Brakes and Spindles All Stainless Lines |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Santa Fe, Texas
Posts: 250
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You could also get an aftermarket control module such as a Holley Commander 950 or other types. This would simplify wiring and related hassels.
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Clinton, Ut
Posts: 230
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I put a similar, but different setup in mine. used a wiring harness from fuel injection specialities. everything was plug and go. I had to shift the motor mounts around on mine, shorten driveline, radiator built, modify tank for fuel pump, but overall it was pretty easy for me.
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'72 Cheyenne super, short-fleet, air-tilt-tach, fuel injected LT1, 700r4, 3.08 posi, 4WDB, step notched and bagged. "the one i wish i still had" |
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